psycho

I did say that I didn't have any experience with that motor!

Neil Rabara

What are the specs for this motor? If it has adjustable timing, then the motor itself maybe questionable to put in the F201.

hemi426

iTrader: (7)

Tamiya Acto-Power Blue, Number 53154, 17x2 Turns, rebuildable, timeable

This is the Motor most people use in their F201s during the TEC (Tamiya Euro Cup). It has a lot of torque. Currently my motor has a timing of 5 degrees.

Why should it be questionale to use such a motor in the F201? I recommend using the alloy motor mount and the aluminium motor guard (acts as cooler), but nothing else is required.


Hemi

psycho

Here in the US, we run with 27T motors (ROAR Stock.) You should be able to run a lot more timing than 10 degrees and the motor should have more rpms. Is the zero mark on the can truly zero degrees of timing? I have a feeling that it has some advance where the can is marked zero. You really should be able to go as much as 36 degrees of timing. Not that you would necessarily want to run that much, but if you really need the rpms, it is possible. I would check if it really is zero degrees timing advance at the zero mark. The easiest way to do this is to use a power supply that shows you the amp draw. As you reduce the timing advance, you will hear the rpms go down and the current draw will also go down. Eventually, you will reach a point where the rpms continue to go down, but the amp draw will go back up. The point where the amp draw is at it's lowest is zero degrees timing. From there, I would try the motor with 24 degrees (you may need a timing jig for this) and see how it goes. Again, not having any experience with that motor, I don't know how it will go, but I would expect the overall performance to be better than at 10 degrees with moderate comm and brush wear.

Hardriven RC

Hemi,

If you need some advise in German, go to the Tamiya Germany site and ask the question to Uwe Reinhart. He is the Tamiya guru in the west division of the German Tamiya Challenge. Tell him you got his name from me. He'll help you or can get you in contact with someone closer to home to help you further.

Best Regards
Roy

Neil Rabara

Even with the aluminum motor mount, the heat generated in the motor area will warp, in effect change the characteristics of the car. Unless you have an adjustable motor mount, you can gear the motor so that it runs cooler. If it is the motor you guys use, then this conversation is mute, we can not say much other than practice and find the timing that allows you run time, and power.

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

hi guys... i am trying to setup a couple F201s for asphalt. should i use the 1 or 3 hole pistons?i have access to either. i read Juns setup, and am heading toward it now. it says 3000 wt. oil? or is that supposed to be 300?and for hot outdoor running, are the B tires the most suitable? sorry for all the q's, but i am going to the TCS in Memphis in july, and have no idea where to start. thanks for any help!!

Sydewynder

Oooo can I play?

Yeah you just be quite psycho.

Hardriven RC

Tamiyadriver,

As far as oil is concerned, i would go for soft 300 in front and the heavyest you can find for the rear (100wt). I know this sounds daft, but the entire car is daft!. Also try using exessive camber in front and rear to generate more grip in turns.

Regards

Neil Rabara

You'll find that the one hole pistons give more dampening than the three hole pistons. The holes themselves are quite large allowing good flow of oil, so with the 3 hole piston installed the shock feels like the stock nail type piston. Furthermore, the inside of the shock body is polished for smooth operation. You won't have any trouble with binding. For hot outdoor running, you will most likely have to go up in oil wt, but you can't determine that until the time of the race. Right now, it's not a good idea to try to set up the car for a race in July. Depending on track temp, the B tires work well if the asphalt is extremely hot (100degF +), but they take a lap or two to get to operational temperature. As far a Jun's setup, I tried it and discovered that the dogbones/universals kept coming out of the outdrives. I shortened the track width and found a nice medium between Jun's setup and the stock setup in the kit.

psycho

Sydewynder

So, are you gonna drag your butt out and race with us this year? Don't give me that crap about being retired.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Hey Neil!

In the setup you sent me,what weight oil front and rear are you using?

Neil Rabara

Stock weight, yellow.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Your the man!

Neil Rabara

No prob, let me know how the setup works with your driving style.