F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Nige - Good to hear about the decal sets. Seeing as the R25 is pretty much the same as the R24 (except for a few decals like ELF, etc) can we still get R24 decals or are you intending on making up an R25 decal set??

BTW - Is there anyone out there that is actually able to mould rear wings with longer endplates like the current cars??? Would be awesome for them to be as real as possible, especially with the swooped rear wing endplates on the Renault. They look awesome in real life!!

f2000racer

Now that you've brought up the topic, you just gave me an idea

The plastic sheets (can't remember what their called now) used in static models might do the job. I'll go pay my hobby shop a visit and see if they have the same thickness. Not sure about durability though

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I always qualify these things now-a-days so here goes. Heres my set-up from my car from TCS Cincinnati. I am not saying tis dialed, but it should be a good place to start your tuning on Ozite carpet.

Front
gold springs, 60wt oil, shock pistons-not nails in alum shocks. 3- clear 3mm o-rings inside shocks. 3º camber
Very little toe out at ride height.
type a tires, stock inserts and tread sanded to remove shiny surface. Jack the Gripper over 3.5 inside ribs.

5mm ride height (Track Rules).

Rear
Gold springs, 50 wt. oil, shock pistons, not nails in alum shocks. 4-clear o-rings inside shocks. 3º camber and 2.8º toe in. Type a tires, stock inserts and tread lightly sanded. JtG full sauce.

5mm ride height.

Williams body.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

What are the shock pistions like. The nail is shit!!!!!! I have never seen a shock this bad does the optional piston have holes in it like every other shock pistion. I heard that the 3 Racing shocks have a nail as well but they are still a lot better than stock

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

The optional pistons are Da Bomb. Ultra polished bore and shock shafts and a choice of teflon shock pistons. Very smooth.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Is that the tamiya pistons

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

What is the part number of them,

Do you need to aloy shock bodies or are the plastic ones ok

f2000racer

I know it has been brought up before but can't and don't have the time to look.

I was just wondering how the spacers on the aluminum rocker arms, are used and the effect on the car.

Thanks in advanced for any help here.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

The shock pistons come with the shock shafts, seals, clips, etc. I dont have the part number-but I am sure you can find it on Tamiyas website or Speedtech, etc. They will work in the plastic as well as the aluminum shock bodies I think. The quality of the alum shock bodies is amazing.

Unregistered

The optional pistons work fine in the plastic shocks. The Aluminum ones are smoother but I don't think the difference is that big on the track.

The spacers for the rocker arms are used to fine tune the spring rate by extending the ball studs. To put it in very general terms, lengthening the shock side makes the suspension stiffer and lengthening the pushrod (tierod) side makes the car softer. This is a fine tuning thing and you might not even feel the change if your suspension's a little sloppy.

The spacers also effect how linear the suspension is but that's a little more complicated to explain (and doesn't really matter on these cars IMO).

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

F2000,

If yoy need a good base setup for Apollo send me a pm, I can send you my starting setup for the outdoor tracks in your area.

Mark

koabich

Ray,
What were the handleing characterists of this car? What changes could you see being made.
Thanks

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

At my home track it was no different than driving a good Touring car. It was WAY overgeared and I was still turning laps only 1.2-sec behind my foam sedan. But when i got to The World Of Hobbies track-it snapped oversteered off of the straightaway into a fast 90º. I tried to tune that out-but couldnt so I on the advice of the Bruce Hickman- turned down my d/r and drove the corner the way the car needed to be driven. There was no cure for the snap oversteer. But with driving it just right-it looked like it never had a handling problem.

I had a slight on-power push and tried to dial that out -but that just made the car too edgy at high speed again. So how I have it is the best compromise situation for what I know so far.

I am sure with a lot more packs-it would naturally just get better and better. but this is all that I know so far.

I think one of the keys with this car is it needs to be driven very smooth and especially with the throttle entering corners. Dropping off the throttle all the way is BAD. You need to roll out of the throttle smoothly or only to half throttle and be back on power before you turn it into the apex.

I hope I made any sense.
RAy

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

So I would say the car was very smooth in handling-decent turn in,but an on-power push. Runs pretty flat in the corners compared to other F1's at twoh race. Didnt seem to have as much steering as others, but carried good corner speed none-the-less.

koabich

Thanks!!