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Old 02-02-2005, 09:16 PM   #2101
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Well, I finally broke something on my F201 this past weekend. The new uprights are great and the reinforced lower arms are a must. What I broke was the pick-up point for the rear track rod on the gearcase side. My first thought was well I must have popped the track rod from the ball connector, but nope, and then I thought well it's about time that one of those new upright broke. Nope, got to say it was a rough tumble, but the new improved uprights held. And I've been running them since August.

BTW, these uprights are Tamiya spares with the same part number, just got to look carefully to see if you got an improved upright.
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Old 02-02-2005, 09:38 PM   #2102
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Hey guys I am looking to get some decal options for the car. I havent seen many other shops carry decals other than Formula1-rc. Any shops carry good decals? Im looking for any of these, Mclaren (recent), Orange Arrows () or BAR....IM me with your answer since i dont check this that much.. Thanks guys!

Ian
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Old 02-03-2005, 03:58 PM   #2103
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Quote:
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
I'm having some trouble with my 415. Parts keep breaking. Must be the cold weather causing the parts to become brittle. So far I've broken front C hub, rear A arm, rear hinge pin, lost lots of screws, batts keep falling out, and the rear diff feels gritty all day. I had better luck with the F201.

mmmmmm well i guess the car is not as reliable as an xray, but i have not had that much trouble. I have bent a couple of hinge pins, cracked a couple front uprights, and done a few white belts.

Re batts, get hold of a xray battery brace, elongate the knurled mounting screws hole and bolt it into the tape slots, i have never had a battery problem, and i hats tape. Rear diff, i have found that you need to use those diff covers from atlas, i actuall super glued mine on to the diff pulley, rear diff has been smooth now for about 6 race days and still going pretty well, the only thing i plan on cleaning regularly going forward is the thrust bearing as it is faily exposed to the elements. I also made the diff slots wider and am now using xray blades, stops the srastic wear on the outdrives.
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Old 02-03-2005, 08:26 PM   #2104
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Quote:
Originally posted by Besercoe
mmmmmm well i guess the car is not as reliable as an xray, but i have not had that much trouble. I have bent a couple of hinge pins, cracked a couple front uprights, and done a few white belts.

Re batts, get hold of a xray battery brace, elongate the knurled mounting screws hole and bolt it into the tape slots, i have never had a battery problem, and i hats tape. Rear diff, i have found that you need to use those diff covers from atlas, i actuall super glued mine on to the diff pulley, rear diff has been smooth now for about 6 race days and still going pretty well, the only thing i plan on cleaning regularly going forward is the thrust bearing as it is faily exposed to the elements. I also made the diff slots wider and am now using xray blades, stops the srastic wear on the outdrives.
Use a black o-ring in the diff halve. The o-ring will protect the thrust bearing while being able to adjust the diff. The F201 requires three, if I remember correctly.
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Old 02-03-2005, 08:26 PM   #2105
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Quote:
Originally posted by gtypecanare
Well, I finally broke something on my F201 this past weekend. The new uprights are great and the reinforced lower arms are a must. What I broke was the pick-up point for the rear track rod on the gearcase side. My first thought was well I must have popped the track rod from the ball connector, but nope, and then I thought well it's about time that one of those new upright broke. Nope, got to say it was a rough tumble, but the new improved uprights held. And I've been running them since August.

BTW, these uprights are Tamiya spares with the same part number, just got to look carefully to see if you got an improved upright.
G, how did you break that? You must have launched from the kink!
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Old 02-03-2005, 08:34 PM   #2106
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It was a plow disk in the right back straight-way, it was part of a chican complex. Oh well, looks like I got some wreching to do on the car this weekend.
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:51 PM   #2107
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Default couple questions

how do these F201s compare to TC
1. lap times
2. parts breaking( the suspension looks a bit exposed.
3. Are thes generally raced as a spec class. A spec motor, tires etc?

4. The F201 is pretty much the only on road open wheel car that is raced in any numbers, correct?
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Old 02-04-2005, 11:12 PM   #2108
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I raced this car for over a year, and I was consistantly running faster lap times with a roar stock than the stock class sedans were running. The arms aren't that bad, depending on the type of boards your local track has. tamiya has newer beefed up arms that are pretty indestructable. Where I raced in Washington, they raced in thier own class.
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Old 02-05-2005, 10:32 AM   #2109
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Hey guys, again - where are you getting your decals?
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Old 02-09-2005, 11:28 AM   #2110
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someone had some for sale , but did not respond to where you can purchase the decals.

I am interested if ther is a place to order them.
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Old 02-09-2005, 11:41 AM   #2111
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Default Re: couple questions

Quote:
Originally posted by imjonah
how do these F201s compare to TC
1. lap times
great question. I have no other f1's to compare to and I too wonder when its fast enough for the tcs race I am going to.

I too am comparing to the sedans. I figure if I can get it within 1.5 to 2 seconds of a foam tire stock car-it should be fast!! Its on type a tires and fixed gearing.
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Old 02-09-2005, 12:30 PM   #2112
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www.formula1-rc.com and look in the pitshop.....
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Old 02-09-2005, 01:53 PM   #2113
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Been there... all the Nige has is the Jaguar and ferrari... nothing much else.
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:56 AM   #2114
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Hello all,


I ran my F201 on Ozite again last night. Got a few tuning questions.

As you all know theres a lot of body roll in these cars. On mine-I have more front than rear i think. I have two o-rings in the shocks leading to about 3mm up-travel in front. I will add one more shim reducing uptravel to almost none in front. Is this the right thing to do or is the car faster letting roll? I have the olive springs on the front. I tried stiffer-but car pushed out the door. Just fyi-I have black springs in back and about 1.5mm of droop. Ride height is about 3mm in front and 4mm in back.

Next thing-car takes many laps for the Tamiya type A tires to come in. I used Jack the gripper -let it soak for 30 minutes then wiped off and ran. Is there a way to make car come in the first lap?

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:23 AM   #2115
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Hello all,


I ran my F201 on Ozite again last night. Got a few tuning questions.

As you all know theres a lot of body roll in these cars. On mine-I have more front than rear i think. I have two o-rings in the shocks leading to about 3mm up-travel in front. I will add one more shim reducing uptravel to almost none in front. Is this the right thing to do or is the car faster letting roll? I have the olive springs on the front. I tried stiffer-but car pushed out the door. Just fyi-I have black springs in back and about 1.5mm of droop. Ride height is about 3mm in front and 4mm in back.

Next thing-car takes many laps for the Tamiya type A tires to come in. I used Jack the gripper -let it soak for 30 minutes then wiped off and ran. Is there a way to make car come in the first lap?

Thanks,
Ray
The only way to ge tthe rubber tires to grip is to use a tire warmer on them....
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