344Likes3 Racing Sakura XI Sport
03-28-2015, 10:22 PM
#616
I have passed xrays, serpents, tamiyas, and associated cars. The driver and how the car is setup, makes a world of difference.
03-29-2015, 04:13 PM
#618
Tech Adept
Well. I would love to copy a good setup.
My car kept rolling over???
Are you guys running the stock shocks and springs?
What about shock oil?
Thanks,
My car kept rolling over???
Are you guys running the stock shocks and springs?
What about shock oil?
Thanks,
03-29-2015, 05:54 PM
#619
I have my setup posted on page 37 of this thread. I can re-post if necessary.
I believe you asked us this exact same question a month ago too.
I believe you asked us this exact same question a month ago too.
03-29-2015, 07:03 PM
#620
Tech Adept
I tried copying your setup but the image is kinda blurry
Also, I fail to see how a floating servo mount is better?
I drilled another hole on the inboard servo mount so now my servo has 3 screws holding it and its not going anywhere.
Is is to prevent servo flex?
Also, I fail to see how a floating servo mount is better?
I drilled another hole on the inboard servo mount so now my servo has 3 screws holding it and its not going anywhere.
Is is to prevent servo flex?
03-29-2015, 07:36 PM
#621
How much tire sauce do you put on? If you are rolling over, try putting none in the front, and only on the back wheels. An understeering car is better than an upside down car.
The floating servo allows your car to fully flex, without any distortion (if you intend to setup your car to flex). This is because there is only a single hard-point from your chassis to the servo, as opposed to two hardpoints. By drilling a 3rd hole, you have made another hardpoint, which will stiffen your car and make it less responsive to suspension changes that involve flex.
Some cars are tuned to be stiff as a board, and have your suspension and tires solely responsible for traction. Others are tuned with the above, plus chassis flex to add a third variable. If you want to tune your car without chassis flex, then drilling a 3rd hole to stiffen your servo won't hurt it, and a floating servo mount will be of zero use to you.
The floating servo allows your car to fully flex, without any distortion (if you intend to setup your car to flex). This is because there is only a single hard-point from your chassis to the servo, as opposed to two hardpoints. By drilling a 3rd hole, you have made another hardpoint, which will stiffen your car and make it less responsive to suspension changes that involve flex.
Some cars are tuned to be stiff as a board, and have your suspension and tires solely responsible for traction. Others are tuned with the above, plus chassis flex to add a third variable. If you want to tune your car without chassis flex, then drilling a 3rd hole to stiffen your servo won't hurt it, and a floating servo mount will be of zero use to you.
03-30-2015, 05:32 AM
#622
Tech Adept
How much tire sauce do you put on? If you are rolling over, try putting none in the front, and only on the back wheels. An understeering car is better than an upside down car.
The floating servo allows your car to fully flex, without any distortion (if you intend to setup your car to flex). This is because there is only a single hard-point from your chassis to the servo, as opposed to two hardpoints. By drilling a 3rd hole, you have made another hardpoint, which will stiffen your car and make it less responsive to suspension changes that involve flex.
Some cars are tuned to be stiff as a board, and have your suspension and tires solely responsible for traction. Others are tuned with the above, plus chassis flex to add a third variable. If you want to tune your car without chassis flex, then drilling a 3rd hole to stiffen your servo won't hurt it, and a floating servo mount will be of zero use to you.
The floating servo allows your car to fully flex, without any distortion (if you intend to setup your car to flex). This is because there is only a single hard-point from your chassis to the servo, as opposed to two hardpoints. By drilling a 3rd hole, you have made another hardpoint, which will stiffen your car and make it less responsive to suspension changes that involve flex.
Some cars are tuned to be stiff as a board, and have your suspension and tires solely responsible for traction. Others are tuned with the above, plus chassis flex to add a third variable. If you want to tune your car without chassis flex, then drilling a 3rd hole to stiffen your servo won't hurt it, and a floating servo mount will be of zero use to you.
Thanks for the lengthy answer but are you saying that I can tune this car to be stiff? That would be with an aluminum chassis right?
I guess its worth trying the floating servo mount then because I am keeping the upgrades at a bare minimum.
The upper bulkhead cover is a part I might get in aluminum cause my ball links are starting to strip out.
I noticed that RCMart has #SAK-U114/PK/V2 but it does not come with the needed spacer with the 2 pins. Where do you get those?
Since I bought Kamloopers XI, I already have:
-Alu BLKHDS
-ALU steering linkage
Would it be too much trouble to repost your setup with better resolution? I tried downloading it again and it's still very blurry
I have to say though, even with my setup issues, I am having so much fun racing this car!!! Much more fun than racing 1/8 nitro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by alex_blais; 03-30-2015 at 07:32 AM.
03-31-2015, 09:06 AM
#623
This chassis (Xi) was made for flex. A stiffer chassis option from Sakura would be the Zero.
I'll get around to re-posting this week.
I'll get around to re-posting this week.
03-31-2015, 11:51 AM
#624
Tech Adept
Are you referring to these ones:
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-spring...?cPath=389_443
03-31-2015, 12:05 PM
#625
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SAK-49-Damper...-/181112006595
The #7 isn't actually in the set. I got the #7's with the 3racing Tamiya mini aluminum shocks.
There is many alternatives to this set, but this is what I use. Another similar alternative would be Tamiya yellow in the front and Tamiya red in the back.
The #7 isn't actually in the set. I got the #7's with the 3racing Tamiya mini aluminum shocks.
There is many alternatives to this set, but this is what I use. Another similar alternative would be Tamiya yellow in the front and Tamiya red in the back.
03-31-2015, 12:58 PM
#626
Tech Adept
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SAK-49-Damper...-/181112006595
The #7 isn't actually in the set. I got the #7's with the 3racing Tamiya mini aluminum shocks.
There is many alternatives to this set, but this is what I use. Another similar alternative would be Tamiya yellow in the front and Tamiya red in the back.
The #7 isn't actually in the set. I got the #7's with the 3racing Tamiya mini aluminum shocks.
There is many alternatives to this set, but this is what I use. Another similar alternative would be Tamiya yellow in the front and Tamiya red in the back.
03-31-2015, 02:32 PM
#627
Yes.
03-31-2015, 10:04 PM
#628
Tech Apprentice
04-01-2015, 12:26 PM
#629
I use the same setup for 17.5 stock and 21.5 VTA.
The only major difference other than tires (32 sweep WCICS spec tire vs HPI vta tread D compound) is the amount of SXT on the front tires. Full for low grip carpet, none for high grip carpet. Half or quarter for anything in between.
I also run a 2 degree RR block in VTA, as the HPI rear tires are so fat and wide. 3 degree RR block in the TC stock for more stability.
People who have driven my car say that it is smooth and very predictable. Looks like I'm going to have some downtime at the office. Let me see if I can repost a more visible photo.
The only major difference other than tires (32 sweep WCICS spec tire vs HPI vta tread D compound) is the amount of SXT on the front tires. Full for low grip carpet, none for high grip carpet. Half or quarter for anything in between.
I also run a 2 degree RR block in VTA, as the HPI rear tires are so fat and wide. 3 degree RR block in the TC stock for more stability.
People who have driven my car say that it is smooth and very predictable. Looks like I'm going to have some downtime at the office. Let me see if I can repost a more visible photo.
04-01-2015, 04:54 PM
#630
Tech Apprentice
I use the same setup for 17.5 stock and 21.5 VTA.
The only major difference other than tires (32 sweep WCICS spec tire vs HPI vta tread D compound) is the amount of SXT on the front tires. Full for low grip carpet, none for high grip carpet. Half or quarter for anything in between.
I also run a 2 degree RR block in VTA, as the HPI rear tires are so fat and wide. 3 degree RR block in the TC stock for more stability.
People who have driven my car say that it is smooth and very predictable. Looks like I'm going to have some downtime at the office. Let me see if I can repost a more visible photo.
The only major difference other than tires (32 sweep WCICS spec tire vs HPI vta tread D compound) is the amount of SXT on the front tires. Full for low grip carpet, none for high grip carpet. Half or quarter for anything in between.
I also run a 2 degree RR block in VTA, as the HPI rear tires are so fat and wide. 3 degree RR block in the TC stock for more stability.
People who have driven my car say that it is smooth and very predictable. Looks like I'm going to have some downtime at the office. Let me see if I can repost a more visible photo.