344Likes3 Racing Sakura XI Sport
09-29-2017, 12:59 PM
#1261
Tech Fanatic
Having never driven a touring car before I have one race coming in two weeks, a second one in three weeks... not sure if I can get any practise in prior to the races, but in any case probably won't have any sparts so I can but hope I won't be crashing too much 
I guess I could do some VRC Pro simulator touring practise at least!
As for the car setup itself, other than the aforementioned incoming option parts all I'm missing now is the Turnigy Sportsman ESC (should be putting it on order early next week) and the Porsche body (should arrive next week)!
I guess I could do some VRC Pro simulator touring practise at least!As for the car setup itself, other than the aforementioned incoming option parts all I'm missing now is the Turnigy Sportsman ESC (should be putting it on order early next week) and the Porsche body (should arrive next week)!
10-04-2017, 08:52 AM
#1263
Tech Fanatic
Ah, finally the body arrived, a Tamiya 51543 Porsche RSR. Now I'd just need to manage to get the body holes in the proper position so that I don't screw up the body like I did for my Mini! I can already see that the rear holes will be slightly oddly positioned in any case.
10-04-2017, 02:17 PM
#1264
Tech Fanatic
Aww, damn it, almost got it right. Put the rear body posts about 5mm too much toward the front. It's usable but the posts do get bent a bit and the front gets pulled toward to rear, making tire alignment just slightly off. Should be drivable without body rub though... I hope.
What I did have to do was mount the rear body posts at the inner holes of the shock tower. I'm not even sure what those holes were meant for, but I cut off the post's alignment nub and just screwed in the posts there. I imagine a hard crash might twist the posts out of alignment and cause issues if it's a race, but I wasn't feeling like trying to drill a second hole in the... graphite or whatever it is, and I'm not sure how it'd affect the integrity either for that matter.
Overall... much better than the mess-up with my Mini. Now I just need some new black paint and the ESC and I'll be good to go. Not sure if the ESC will arrive in time for the race on the 14th, might have to use a loaner from another car - assuming there's even enough cars for the vintage class (so far I'm the only one registered for it). Though I'm thinking the class spec tires won't arrive in time either by the looks of it, but maybe they'll forgive a newbie...
Aluminum steering set arrived today too, guess I gotta put that in place as well.
What I did have to do was mount the rear body posts at the inner holes of the shock tower. I'm not even sure what those holes were meant for, but I cut off the post's alignment nub and just screwed in the posts there. I imagine a hard crash might twist the posts out of alignment and cause issues if it's a race, but I wasn't feeling like trying to drill a second hole in the... graphite or whatever it is, and I'm not sure how it'd affect the integrity either for that matter.
Overall... much better than the mess-up with my Mini. Now I just need some new black paint and the ESC and I'll be good to go. Not sure if the ESC will arrive in time for the race on the 14th, might have to use a loaner from another car - assuming there's even enough cars for the vintage class (so far I'm the only one registered for it). Though I'm thinking the class spec tires won't arrive in time either by the looks of it, but maybe they'll forgive a newbie...
Aluminum steering set arrived today too, guess I gotta put that in place as well.
10-04-2017, 04:08 PM
#1265
One thing you can try is to mount the rear posts on the other side of the shock towers.
10-04-2017, 05:18 PM
#1266
Tech Fanatic
Yeah, I had the same idea, unfortunately that takes the adjustment too far. Basically the sweet spot would probably be having the posts directly above the shock tower, but obviously that's not really doable.
I think I should engineer a cross-brace of sorts for the rear posts, though, now that the nubs are gone and all. Maybe that'd help keep the posts in place and rigid in case of crashes. Unless I do drill a second hole after the fact and use a second screw instead of the nub.
As far as painting the body... people say not to use "regular" spray on lexan. I did a test piece with some black I have for painting miniatures, and I can't seem to get it to flake no matter how much I bend and twist the test piece. Nor does it seem to rub off particularly easily. I wonder if it'd be safe to use. Bleh, still risky I guess. Just hate the cost of RC paints even if they are only a relative drop in the bucket in the overall cost of the hobby.
I think I should engineer a cross-brace of sorts for the rear posts, though, now that the nubs are gone and all. Maybe that'd help keep the posts in place and rigid in case of crashes. Unless I do drill a second hole after the fact and use a second screw instead of the nub.
As far as painting the body... people say not to use "regular" spray on lexan. I did a test piece with some black I have for painting miniatures, and I can't seem to get it to flake no matter how much I bend and twist the test piece. Nor does it seem to rub off particularly easily. I wonder if it'd be safe to use. Bleh, still risky I guess. Just hate the cost of RC paints even if they are only a relative drop in the bucket in the overall cost of the hobby.
10-05-2017, 10:38 AM
#1267
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (54)
As far as painting the body... people say not to use "regular" spray on lexan. I did a test piece with some black I have for painting miniatures, and I can't seem to get it to flake no matter how much I bend and twist the test piece. Nor does it seem to rub off particularly easily. I wonder if it'd be safe to use. Bleh, still risky I guess. Just hate the cost of RC paints even if they are only a relative drop in the bucket in the overall cost of the hobby.
10-05-2017, 12:24 PM
#1268
Tech Fanatic
Well, I ended up just getting another tiny can. On the upside the body came out better than I expected:
Although sadly adding the race car number will be detrimental to the look
Next I guess I'll have to take another look at the diff, probably some extended free-revving to see if it leaks or if its just the "overflow" from the assembly that sprayed some drops after the initial assembly. Not gonna be much fun for anyone if the car leaks oil onto the track!
Although sadly adding the race car number will be detrimental to the look
Next I guess I'll have to take another look at the diff, probably some extended free-revving to see if it leaks or if its just the "overflow" from the assembly that sprayed some drops after the initial assembly. Not gonna be much fun for anyone if the car leaks oil onto the track!
10-09-2017, 10:14 AM
#1269
Uh, I can't seem to make heads or tails of the gear diff and its screws as far as final assembly goes on the Hobbyking/Turnigy version. I've done the build up to the upper deck without any other big issues (only the usual few stripped screw threads...), but the diff is a leftover biiig problem. I can't get it tightened down. It doesn't push together fully (despite careful alignment) without the screws, but actually tightening it down WITH the screws doesn't apparently happen either. They are WAY too tight to turn, even after a few partial attempts. It doesn't help that the screw heads seem too loose for a 1.5mm driver but are also bit too tight for a 0.63", though at least with a 0.63" you can actually turn them, just that that it starts "skipping" when the screw becomes overly tight to screw in. I don't know why it gets so tight.
After initial assembly when all four were tightened as well as I could get them, the gap between the diff cover halves was just like it was before the screws. Seeing as how that leaves a gap between the gear teeth and the other sidewall which keeps the belt in place, that can't possibly be intentional. But seems like it'd require magic to get it any other way (and it's not like this would be my first gear diff).
Other than this problem it really seems like a quality kit, unlike the M-05 V2 R. If I didn't know I would've thought the prices of the two would've been reversed.
After initial assembly when all four were tightened as well as I could get them, the gap between the diff cover halves was just like it was before the screws. Seeing as how that leaves a gap between the gear teeth and the other sidewall which keeps the belt in place, that can't possibly be intentional. But seems like it'd require magic to get it any other way (and it's not like this would be my first gear diff).
Other than this problem it really seems like a quality kit, unlike the M-05 V2 R. If I didn't know I would've thought the prices of the two would've been reversed.
10-12-2017, 12:38 PM
#1270
Tech Fanatic
Soldered the newly arrived ESC with my new not-so-shiny soldering station and the car is kinda ready to go... class-spec tires aren't here yet but not enough vintage cars in saturday's race day anyway. Oh well, no racing yet therefore. But also tested the diff now and it definitely leaks a lot. Another rebuild needed. Oddly I noticed there's a sort of big thin O-loop like seal or something leftover after the build. I wonder if it is supposed to be in the diff even though the diff build instructions make no mention of it?
10-12-2017, 01:06 PM
#1271
Sounds like you have an O-Ring for the internal shaft of the diff outdrive - this piece is important to have installed.
Without it, the diff will wobble and not have anything close to a proper seal.
Without it, the diff will wobble and not have anything close to a proper seal.
10-12-2017, 03:26 PM
#1272
Tech Apprentice
After being pleased with my carbon chassis and top deck for my carpet car, I thought I might year my outdoor car to the same upgrade. But RC Mart don't have any left and nor do 3 Racing.
Anyone got any other suggestions of places which might? Or would the Advanced chassis fit?
Anyone got any other suggestions of places which might? Or would the Advanced chassis fit?
10-12-2017, 06:21 PM
#1273
Advanced has different holes.
Interesting, the 3racing site doesn't have as much xi parts as before. The ultimate chassis may fit.
Interesting, the 3racing site doesn't have as much xi parts as before. The ultimate chassis may fit.
10-12-2017, 07:56 PM
#1274
Hey Guys... so... I just got back into the hobby and bought a TT-02R... and it's way less than I expected. I think I got a defective kit or something... cause i've built MANY rc's over the years, and I have never had one that was THIS bad. That said... I started buying upgrade parts, and I finally realized I am just polishing a turd. So I ordered the XI Sport... and if I like it i'll buy the Sakura Advance... but... my question is:
When I get the XI (should be here Saturday).. what are the best upgrades to get? I already ordered the sway bar kit along with the chassis... but... im not sure what sorts of upgrades really help the XI. I will be racing on pavement.
When I get the XI (should be here Saturday).. what are the best upgrades to get? I already ordered the sway bar kit along with the chassis... but... im not sure what sorts of upgrades really help the XI. I will be racing on pavement.
Last edited by seatstothewind; 10-12-2017 at 10:30 PM.
10-12-2017, 10:26 PM
#1275
Tire recommendations for 26mm rubbers would be fantastic as well!