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Old 03-03-2016, 10:12 AM   #991
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If you are not racing it, just adjust your steering trim via radio. No point in adding aluminum parts, unless you choose to do so.

If you are racing it, get a setup station to square off the car correctly. Good idea to invest in aluminum steering too.
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:42 PM   #992
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I have most of the left fading at full throttle fixed. The chassis was tweaked a bit and I adjusted it. I already had aluminum hexes. I did buy a setup station and some droop blocks. My castor, camber and toe were all fine. I also installed an aluminum servo horn. I no longer have to use a right trim of 30 something. I'm now at a left trim of 4. Oh, I also added 1.5 oz of lead towards the back right of the chassis. A few times I could go full throttle and it was straight all the way. However, sometimes it would start to go left (although not as much and not as quickly). I'll keep looking at it. Thanks for the help. It is much better now.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:46 PM   #993
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1' of toe out will ensure your car drives straight.

The kit tires wear out very quickly. Check the wear to ensure that worn tires aren't affecting alignment and rollout. My most recent setup is posted a dozen pages (or so) back.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:19 AM   #994
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If you have the 1' toe out set properly on each side with a setup station, then the car should go straight. If sometimes it does not, than you either hit something and need to realign it. Or there is too much slop in the steering/C-hubs/arms/rear uprights. You can use the shim set SW03/V2 to reduce the play to an acceptable level. However it is quite tedious and you have to be very careful not to cause any binding in the parts.

Beside the chassis check also your body if everything is centered, especially the rear wing.
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:49 AM   #995
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@(0000000000) @perzeus

Thanks for the relpy.

I was looking for the motormount, beacause i have a little tweak in that area.
I have rebuild the motormount/spurgearholder serveral times, bud still have issues with this tweak, its not much but i can see it if i hold the caliper along the underside of the chassis.
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:49 AM   #996
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I'm running Gravity USGT pre-glued tires right now. I have 1' toe-in at rear and just under 1.5' toe-out in front. There is definitely slop in the steering that I plan to address. I also noticed that I don't have my holes centered perfectly on my body for the posts. So, I did see a little bend on the posts. However, I also ran the car without the body to see if there was much difference. Didn't see much, but things could add up so, I'm going to fix that too. I also want to find a surface that I know is much more flat and true. I think the one time it jetted right was because I hit something in the parking lot. The parking lot is pretty clean but it's still a parking lot and running at about 4.5mm ride height is not doing the bottom of the chassis any favors (I'm starting to build an XV-01 tomorrow so that should do fine as my parking lot driver and I can keep the XI Sport on carpet at the local track). Thanks again for all of your help. I'm going to keep tuning it.
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Old 03-05-2016, 12:54 AM   #997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todd_c View Post
I'm running Gravity USGT pre-glued tires right now. I have 1' toe-in at rear and just under 1.5' toe-out in front.
You need way more than 1' at the rear. Do you mean you have the standard uprights with the 1' built in? The standard rear arm holder has additional 2' in them, to have an overall toe in of 3', which is a good starting point. You can go down to 2' but that would already make the car unstable.
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Old 03-06-2016, 04:05 PM   #998
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Yes, I have the standard 1' upright installed. I swear I checked the toe-in and it was 1'. I'll check it again. Thanks.
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Old 03-06-2016, 04:38 PM   #999
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I checked again and it was 2.5 degrees on the right rear and almost 2 degrees on the left rear. Nothing on the chassis appeared loose. I have the RR +10* installed on the rear and the FF +0* installed on the front.
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:45 PM   #1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todd_c View Post
I checked again and it was 2.5 degrees on the right rear and almost 2 degrees on the left rear. Nothing on the chassis appeared loose. I have the RR +10* installed on the rear and the FF +0* installed on the front.
That difference might actually be causing the problem. It should be equal on both sides, it never is exactly, but 0,5 seems to be a bit high difference. Check if there is nothing bent, try to loosen and tighten the screws on the arm holders etc.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:46 PM   #1001
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I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:56 AM   #1002
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Hello guys I am new to the world of RC turing cars
I ordered the 3Racing 1/10 Sakura XI

I would greatly appreciate if you help me to choose the electronic parts
Electronic speed control
Electric motor
Steering servo for 1/10 scale
Thank you for your help
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:52 PM   #1003
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What class will you be racing, and which track?
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Old 03-16-2016, 01:26 PM   #1004
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I am from Greece after training I would like to take part in some races that became close to me
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:32 PM   #1005
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Hi, I would like to share with you a pic of my Sakura XI Sport.



What´s inside: X-Car ESC 120a Trackstar motor 5.5t Savox Servo
Aluminum upgrades
Nano Tech 5300 mah
Sanwa MX-V Transmitter.
Sorex 32r tires

Thanks
Cobi RC

Last edited by CobiRC; 03-17-2016 at 03:46 PM.
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