3 Racing Sakura XI Sport
#751
SAK-X28A is a direct aluminum replacement for a plastic part that works perfectly fine.
SAK-D127U is a direct titanium replacement foor a stainless component that works perfectly fine.
If you have money to burn, then have your wicked way with these shock components. Personally, there are many other upgrades, i would choose first.
Gearing is tough, because we don't know what motor you are running, or where you are running it. But with an 80T 48P spur gear, you're going to need a HUGE pinion to get to 4.0 fdr.
SAK-D127U is a direct titanium replacement foor a stainless component that works perfectly fine.
If you have money to burn, then have your wicked way with these shock components. Personally, there are many other upgrades, i would choose first.
Gearing is tough, because we don't know what motor you are running, or where you are running it. But with an 80T 48P spur gear, you're going to need a HUGE pinion to get to 4.0 fdr.
#752
Tech Rookie
If the titanium damper shafts are the same length, they should be equal to the stock.
Thanks for the info on the spur gear, I replaced the pulley gears with an alloy set, so I changed the spur and the pinion at the same time. That's why I lacked power and my motor was getting hot as heck. By the way, the aluminum pulley gear set made the car much quieter and smoother.
Cheers,
Shawn
Thanks for the info on the spur gear, I replaced the pulley gears with an alloy set, so I changed the spur and the pinion at the same time. That's why I lacked power and my motor was getting hot as heck. By the way, the aluminum pulley gear set made the car much quieter and smoother.
Cheers,
Shawn
#753
SAK-X28A is a direct aluminum replacement for a plastic part that works perfectly fine.
SAK-D127U is a direct titanium replacement foor a stainless component that works perfectly fine.
If you have money to burn, then have your wicked way with these shock components. Personally, there are many other upgrades, i would choose first.
Gearing is tough, because we don't know what motor you are running, or where you are running it. But with an 80T 48P spur gear, you're going to need a HUGE pinion to get to 4.0 fdr.
SAK-D127U is a direct titanium replacement foor a stainless component that works perfectly fine.
If you have money to burn, then have your wicked way with these shock components. Personally, there are many other upgrades, i would choose first.
Gearing is tough, because we don't know what motor you are running, or where you are running it. But with an 80T 48P spur gear, you're going to need a HUGE pinion to get to 4.0 fdr.
These Yeah Racing shocks are another options, but if the pink doesn't match it will drive me crazy!
http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/ye...pk-p-3331.html
I'm using this 17.5T/2270kV motor:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21866
I have a 71T spur and a 35T pinion on the way. I'll start with that gearing.
What upgrades would you choose over shocks?
#754
The plastic bodies seem fine - similar in quality to the xray T1 and T2 I used to run. If anything, trf o-rings and bladders may help improve the feel.
Floating servo, sway bars, and some assorted springs. This car is pretty good to go.
Floating servo, sway bars, and some assorted springs. This car is pretty good to go.
#755
It's out for delivery. Can't wait.
#756
Tech Apprentice
2 month old Sakura Ultimate 2014 for sale! Has to go asap. Msg me!
#757
What is the offset on the stock wheels?
I had two issues while building so far. I should be able to finish the build tonight.
1. One of the M2x5 screws that hold the spur to the pulleys seems to be too short. It will not grab onto the opposite pulley.
2. The composite steering rack broke while assembling it. I'm going to order the aluminum version now.
I had two issues while building so far. I should be able to finish the build tonight.
1. One of the M2x5 screws that hold the spur to the pulleys seems to be too short. It will not grab onto the opposite pulley.
2. The composite steering rack broke while assembling it. I'm going to order the aluminum version now.
#758
Tech Rookie
I stripped out one of the pulleys installing the M2x5 screws, ended up buying the alloy version. The alloy pulleys have 20t versus the 19t on the stock components. Download the ultimate manual if you are going to install the alloy steering system. The ball end is is offset right of center, so you will need to offset the servo horn when centering it. I also installed a longer turnbuckle as the ball caps were barely threaded on the stock unit when installed. HTH
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
#759
I stripped out one of the pulleys installing the M2x5 screws, ended up buying the alloy version. The alloy pulleys have 20t versus the 19t on the stock components. Download the ultimate manual if you are going to install the alloy steering system. The ball end is is offset right of center, so you will need to offset the servo horn when centering it. I also installed a longer turnbuckle as the ball caps were barely threaded on the stock unit when installed. HTH
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
Do you happen to know the length of the turnbuckle that you used?
Last edited by JatoTheRipper; 06-09-2015 at 06:33 AM.
#760
Tech Rookie
I installed the aluminum unit from the start and could not figure out why it was not going together right! I bought an extra set of turnbuckles and used the M3X32, the stock is M3X25. I used the spacing from the ultimate manual as a starting point, IIRC it was around 14.5mm. I think TQ racing and/or RCMart have the turnbuckles for sale individually and in pink to boot.
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
#761
It has been so long ago, but i cant recall the steering needing to be modified with longer turnbuckles.
There is an option for an alloy 19T pulley, it was an option part for the Zero. I do preffer the plastic one as it is less rotating mass. I've been lucky so far and have yet to strip the screw holes.
The Zero swaybars will also work on this kit (XI). Just have to change the mounting on the front end from two ball cups into two ball ends.
There is an option for an alloy 19T pulley, it was an option part for the Zero. I do preffer the plastic one as it is less rotating mass. I've been lucky so far and have yet to strip the screw holes.
The Zero swaybars will also work on this kit (XI). Just have to change the mounting on the front end from two ball cups into two ball ends.
#762
I installed the aluminum unit from the start and could not figure out why it was not going together right! I bought an extra set of turnbuckles and used the M3X32, the stock is M3X25. I used the spacing from the ultimate manual as a starting point, IIRC it was around 14.5mm. I think TQ racing and/or RCMart have the turnbuckles for sale individually and in pink to boot.
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
Where did you find the pink turnbuckles? I can't find them anywhere.
#763
Tech Rookie
Sorry, I can't post links yet but TQ racing has 28mm turnbuckles listed for the XI sport and the ultimate. Must be out of stock on the longer ones. RCmart has all of them available under XI sport hop up parts. You can get the 25mm turnbuckles to work, but it leaves you with no room to adjust. I'm pretty sure it would come apart in a decent crash. There is an older post about it in this thread, can't remember how far back it is though.
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
#764
Sorry, I can't post links yet but TQ racing has 28mm turnbuckles listed for the XI sport and the ultimate. Must be out of stock on the longer ones. RCmart has all of them available under XI sport hop up parts. You can get the 25mm turnbuckles to work, but it leaves you with no room to adjust. I'm pretty sure it would come apart in a decent crash. There is an older post about it in this thread, can't remember how far back it is though.
Cheers,
Shawn
Cheers,
Shawn
Thanks.
#765
I was staring at my car last night like a nerd and noticed something. The two standoffs that hold that battery and prevent it from hitting the belt are not the same size. The rear one that screws into the motor mount is fine, but the front one that screws into the aluminum, floating servo mount does not stick out far enough. It doesn't even really stick out past the belt. Is this normal?
See the attached picture.
See the attached picture.