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Old 06-17-2014, 10:51 AM   #436
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Your talking about the killshot timing plate not being able to move easy right? Another big flaw. You have to take the whole timing endbell assembly apart. I had to grind down the metal ring backing because it binded when fully assembled. Also the the ring within the ring I had to sand down those edges as well. Big fun when purchasing a new motor. Sorry about the R1 motors being out of stock. Steve has his hands full at the moment and I know he is replenishing those as we speak.
Do you mean to take the endbell apart to make the timing adjustment or take it apart to modify it to make adjusting it easier when it's fully assembled?

What I'm doing now is, pull the 2 screws out, push the rotor to pop the sensor board out, make the adjustment then reassemble.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:53 AM   #437
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I tried both. Best results I ever had with a killshot was using the rpm stator with the 12.5 rpm rotor or the 12.5 broadband rotor with motor timing at 65*! I always raced on big tracks with 150ft straights. Small indoor tracks I would stick with the torque/torque.
Me too both the motor (RPM stator and 12.5 rpm rotor) and type of track. Just wondering about the motor as I've heard a lot of folks talking about smoking the HT/HT version (usually with high timing and geared very very agressively).
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:05 PM   #438
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I ran my HT/HT 17.5 for half of last season at 75 degrees of timing and a fdr around 4.0 and it was a rocket ship, im still running that motor now, just backed the timing down to around 55 and geared up a bit.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:45 PM   #439
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Do you mean to take the endbell apart to make the timing adjustment or take it apart to modify it to make adjusting it easier when it's fully assembled?

What I'm doing now is, pull the 2 screws out, push the rotor to pop the sensor board out, make the adjustment then reassemble.
You have to take whole motor apart to make the adjustments I've mentioned. Be careful when removing any of the endbells to keep track of how many shims are on the rotor for each side. Also a shim or two can stay stuck to a bearing inside the sensor side. Wish I could be more help but I have since moved onto a better quality motor with no hassles.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:02 PM   #440
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SO what exactly do the shims do? And on what occasion do you make adjustment? Obviously it would limit the movement of the rotor and how does that play a role into modifying motor?
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:19 PM   #441
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SO what exactly do the shims do? And on what occasion do you make adjustment? Obviously it would limit the movement of the rotor and how does that play a role into modifying motor?
Centering rotor to the magnetic field. Some say distance of the rotor to sensor makes a difference
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:13 PM   #442
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You have to take whole motor apart to make the adjustments I've mentioned. Be careful when removing any of the endbells to keep track of how many shims are on the rotor for each side. Also a shim or two can stay stuck to a bearing inside the sensor side. Wish I could be more help but I have since moved onto a better quality motor with no hassles.
Yea, I've had a few of them apart several times and have noticed the shims get stuck to the bearings. I'd like to move on too. LOL
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:43 PM   #443
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Centering rotor to the magnetic field. Some say distance of the rotor to sensor makes a difference
Did it to you?
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:19 PM   #444
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Did it to you?
Everything counts. I've used Teflon shims and the aluminum timing ring from fantom.
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:52 PM   #445
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Everything counts. I've used Teflon shims and the aluminum timing ring from fantom.
So the type of shims also matters I assume? Does it? I'm not sure what the timing ring is.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:24 PM   #446
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This question is related to D 3.5 motor but I'm sure someone here can help. Anyway I have a 17.5 d 3.5 motor that I'm not using at this time, can I replace the 17.5 stator with a 25.5 d3.5 stator ? Will all the rest of the motor parts be interchangeable?
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:45 PM   #447
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This question is related to D 3.5 motor but I'm sure someone here can help. Anyway I have a 17.5 d 3.5 motor that I'm not using at this time, can I replace the 17.5 stator with a 25.5 d3.5 stator ? Will all the rest of the motor parts be interchangeable?
Im guessing you just mean can you you use the rotor end bells and sensor board from your 17.5 on your 25.5. If so, then yes you can. The actual stator does not come out(or shouldn't)come out of the can.
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:52 PM   #448
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Im guessing you just mean can you you use the rotor end bells and sensor board from your 17.5 on your 25.5. If so, then yes you can. The actual stator does not come out(or shouldn't)come out of the can.
Thank you!
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:44 PM   #449
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This question is related to D 3.5 motor but I'm sure someone here can help. Anyway I have a 17.5 d 3.5 motor that I'm not using at this time, can I replace the 17.5 stator with a 25.5 d3.5 stator ? Will all the rest of the motor parts be interchangeable?
Yes... All of the parts interchange. I routinely swapped stators to build different motors for different classes without having to buy a whole motor.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:50 PM   #450
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Have to run a 17.5 race, only motor I have is a killshot with High torque stator. I have both 12.5 HT and 12.5 rpm rotors.
what gearing and timing, 170' straight, pretty open layout and which rotor?
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