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Old 04-03-2014, 03:58 PM   #361
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Can anyone tell me where to start FDR for 160' straight away, out doors track. I currently have a HT/HT Kill shot...any suggestions, thanks??

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Old 04-08-2014, 12:12 AM   #362
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Can anyone tell me where to start FDR for 160' straight away, out doors track. I currently have a HT/HT Kill shot...any suggestions, thanks??
160'? It must be a huge track.. The track I go to is quite big too for electric touring cars and I'm in SoCal. I would use 55 timing on motor with 3.6-8 to begin with. 55 seems to be the perfect timing for this HT/HT setup. I've dragged FDR down to 3.45 in indoor carpet track in cool night and the temp was only about 145-150. In hot weather, I guess it could reach 170-180. I would not go below 3.5. Good luck. Unlike many here, I have been very lucky that I haven't had any problem with this motor.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:56 PM   #363
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160'? It must be a huge track.. The track I go to is quite big too for electric touring cars and I'm in SoCal. I would use 55 timing on motor with 3.6-8 to begin with. 55 seems to be the perfect timing for this HT/HT setup. I've dragged FDR down to 3.45 in indoor carpet track in cool night and the temp was only about 145-150. In hot weather, I guess it could reach 170-180. I would not go below 3.5. Good luck. Unlike many here, I have been very lucky that I haven't had any problem with this motor.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:02 AM   #364
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real rap.
Thats right where I am roughly. 4.06 fdr and 60 degrees with RPM stator and 12.5mm aqua torque rotor and the motor (not my driving!) is faster than most anything else in my 17.5 blinky sedan. 145 F at the end of the main with a 30mm MuchMore ultra rpm fan running off RX.

17.5 Killshots weigh something like 158 grams and have the simplest, most functional, elegant design of any motor I worked with. I love these motors!
After reading some of these posts and the terminology being used here (e.g., HT/HT), I need some help understanding what I bought. I have the RPM version of the 21.5T KILLSHOT (REV1603R). What stator and what rotor is in that motor? I want to know so I have a baseline to make changes to improve performance if needed. I run on fairly large outdoor tracks with long straights (shortest is ~100ft) and rather open flowing turns (very little braking), which is why I got the RPM version. For now I'm being conservative with timing (40*) and FDR (~3.4) with the new motor until I see how it runs on the track, but this is by far the best 21.5 motor I've put my car so far . Hope I don't have some of the same gremlins as others have experienced.
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:12 PM   #365
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After reading some of these posts and the terminology being used here (e.g., HT/HT), I need some help understanding what I bought. I have the RPM version of the 21.5T KILLSHOT (REV1603R). What stator and what rotor is in that motor? I want to know so I have a baseline to make changes to improve performance if needed. I run on fairly large outdoor tracks with long straights (shortest is ~100ft) and rather open flowing turns (very little braking), which is why I got the RPM version. For now I'm being conservative with timing (40*) and FDR (~3.4) with the new motor until I see how it runs on the track, but this is by far the best 21.5 motor I've put my car so far . Hope I don't have some of the same gremlins as others have experienced.
HT/HT is a high torque stator and 12.5mm high torque rotor. Yours is just the RPM version which has a standard 12.3 broadband rotor.
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:12 PM   #366
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
After reading some of these posts and the terminology being used here (e.g., HT/HT), I need some help understanding what I bought. I have the RPM version of the 21.5T KILLSHOT (REV1603R). What stator and what rotor is in that motor? I want to know so I have a baseline to make changes to improve performance if needed. I run on fairly large outdoor tracks with long straights (shortest is ~100ft) and rather open flowing turns (very little braking), which is why I got the RPM version. For now I'm being conservative with timing (40*) and FDR (~3.4) with the new motor until I see how it runs on the track, but this is by far the best 21.5 motor I've put my car so far . Hope I don't have some of the same gremlins as others have experienced.
Your motor would be the RPM stator, with the stock purple 12.3mm rotor. When people say HT/HT that would be the High Torque Stator and the High torque 12.5mm turquoise rotor
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:55 AM   #367
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Hey guys,
With so many of these Killshots just popping for no logical reason I am wondering if its because Trinity sold so many of them that naturally you will get more failures OR are there really THAT many KS failures (compared to the number sold) at this point? From what I am seeing the power seems great but if there is like a 1 in 3 chance of the motor AND a $200 ESC popping it just doesn't seem worth the gamble to run one!

Has Trinity acknowledged or made any changes to prevent these failures? And when the D4 does finally come out do you think they will stop production of the KS? IOW does it fill a different niche than the D4 will?
I popped mine at a race, but after sitting down with Jim Campbell, we determined it was my fault. Something people do not know about this motor...

There is a horseshoe ring behind the end bell. If you are adjusting timing on the motor, it can be rather hard to move at first (without buffing off the finish). I was adjusting timing on my motor, could not get the bell to move, removed the screws completely. This was my mistake. When I removed the two screws, that horseshoe ring, which was secured to the end bell, quickly got sucked up by the magnets. I put the screws back in, buttoned everything back up, everything seemed tight like it should. Powered the car on, gave it a little throttle... nothing, but some glitching. Even more throttle and pop! My cap on my brand new RSX blew in my face. Jim broke the motor down, took about an hour before we figured out the cause. That horseshoe ring that I said was sucked in by the magnets connected A,B,C and blew my motor and esc. To make timing adjustments, you only want to loosen the screws. DO NOT completely remove them or you will end up with the same situation as I did and will have to tear the whole motor apart to put the ring back in place. Could this be what is happening to all these KS motors that go poof? I also would not recommend taking these motors over the 60deg mark.
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:10 AM   #368
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From what I've read on this thread, it sounds like the Killshot motor failures are occurring in touring cars. Is anyone having motor failures in 1/12th scale?
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Old 04-20-2014, 05:19 PM   #369
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From what I've read on this thread, it sounds like the Killshot motor failures are occurring in touring cars. Is anyone having motor failures in 1/12th scale?
I have run the killshot numerous times in 12th scale running 17.5 without any issues!! Knock on wood!!
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Old 04-20-2014, 05:31 PM   #370
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I popped mine at a race, but after sitting down with Jim Campbell, we determined it was my fault. Something people do not know about this motor...

There is a horseshoe ring behind the end bell. If you are adjusting timing on the motor, it can be rather hard to move at first (without buffing off the finish). I was adjusting timing on my motor, could not get the bell to move, removed the screws completely. This was my mistake. When I removed the two screws, that horseshoe ring, which was secured to the end bell, quickly got sucked up by the magnets. I put the screws back in, buttoned everything back up, everything seemed tight like it should. Powered the car on, gave it a little throttle... nothing, but some glitching. Even more throttle and pop! My cap on my brand new RSX blew in my face. Jim broke the motor down, took about an hour before we figured out the cause. That horseshoe ring that I said was sucked in by the magnets connected A,B,C and blew my motor and esc. To make timing adjustments, you only want to loosen the screws. DO NOT completely remove them or you will end up with the same situation as I did and will have to tear the whole motor apart to put the ring back in place. Could this be what is happening to all these KS motors that go poof? I also would not recommend taking these motors over the 60deg mark.
Interesting you mentioned that. When I first purchased the KS and took it apart to check shimming, the FIRST thing that stood out to me was how close the steel "horseshoe" is to A B and C solder plates--my guess was either the horseshoe was bending from being tightened too much and touching A B & C or perhaps not putting the timing screws back in and exactly what you mentioned--being sucked down to the rotor and shorting out the 3 poles!!

FYI--Trinity sell an aluminum timing ring to get rid of the magnetic "drag" caused by the steel ring near the rotor. The anodized surface is a terrible conductor of electricity, that might save some motors!
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:04 AM   #371
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...To make timing adjustments, you only want to loosen the screws. DO NOT completely remove them or you will end up with the same situation as I did and will have to tear the whole motor apart to put the ring back in place. Could this be what is happening to all these KS motors that go poof? I also would not recommend taking these motors over the 60deg mark.
Certainly an unfortunate occurrence, but this isn't the main problem causing these motors to fail. The reliability problem seems to be related to the insulation used on the stator windings.
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:08 AM   #372
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My thought is the possibility of Arcing, while what happened to me was unfortunate and my cause, that steel ring is too close to the phases. Is it possible to run a different, non-metallic material or no ring at all? I do not think the endbell actually secures with this ring, can someone confirm that?
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:19 PM   #373
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Your motor would be the RPM stator, with the stock purple 12.3mm rotor. When people say HT/HT that would be the High Torque Stator and the High torque 12.5mm turquoise rotor
What version of the killshot motor do I order to get the high torque stator and what rotor comes with that?

I noticed people talking about dyno runs indicating that on the HT/HT motor that 55* was about the optimum amount of timing. What dyno are they using?
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:12 AM   #374
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What version of the killshot motor do I order to get the high torque stator and what rotor comes with that?

I noticed people talking about dyno runs indicating that on the HT/HT motor that 55* was about the optimum amount of timing. What dyno are they using?
you would just the High torque version. it comes stock with the purple broadband rotor. If you want the HT/HT that people are talking about then you would need to get the 12.5mm turquoise HT rotor. Or you can order them together as the maxilla. Most people are using a motor checker like one you can get from team powers. Some people actually have dynos like we use on full size car, but these are used mostly in pan car racing. Heres a pic of the motor checker and a link to the dyno.http://www.mcpappyracing.com/dyno.php
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:54 AM   #375
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My thought is the possibility of Arcing, while what happened to me was unfortunate and my cause, that steel ring is too close to the phases. Is it possible to run a different, non-metallic material or no ring at all? I do not think the endbell actually secures with this ring, can someone confirm that?
The endbell isn't secured with the ring, but the sensor assembly is. You could always use electrical tape as an insulator between the ring and the connections to the stator - cheap and easy fix...
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