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Old 11-14-2013, 03:38 PM   #271
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That is correct. That's why I mentioned dropping a tooth to give you back the low end.
Just to add, it may actually improve your top end as well. If you're geared too high, your car may never actually "top out" as far as RPM goes. Gearing down will help you out of the corners, and might help you reach the maximum RPM of the motor by the end of the straight.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #272
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I just bought a 21.5 high torque version for the USGT class. Do I still need to get high torque rotor as well? Also what FDR and timing do you recommend for small carpet track?
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:58 PM   #273
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I just bought a 21.5 high torque version for the USGT class. Do I still need to get high torque rotor as well? Also what FDR and timing do you recommend for small carpet track?
When you say small track ,I'm guess around 80x40 ! If so , start at 3.8 FDR

Torque rotor start at 3.7 FDR , either rotor set timing at 55 degs.

Both the stock and high torque rotors work well . Torque is best on a small track and the stock is better on a larger track .
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:29 PM   #274
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When you say small track ,I'm guess around 80x40 ! If so , start at 3.8 FDR

Torque rotor start at 3.7 FDR , either rotor set timing at 55 degs.

Both the stock and high torque rotors work well . Torque is best on a small track and the stock is better on a larger track .
Thank you Ray for the recommendations.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:32 AM   #275
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Well, with the advice provided here I was able to increase the timing on my RPM/RPM 17.5 Killshot. I didn't go far. I think it was just from 57* to about 60*. All during my practice sessions (upwards of 5 minutes runtime each time) the motor only got up to about 155*F and the car was very quick/fast so I was very pleased.

Unfortunately, in the first race about half way through, the car abruptly coasted to a stop, let out a big flume of smoke, and died. Looks like the motor let go, but the really bad part is it took out my ESC in the process.

It was only then that I started hearing from numerous people that this is pretty common with the Killshot motors. I'm playing it safe and going elsewhere for my next motor.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:17 AM   #276
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Well, with the advice provided here I was able to increase the timing on my RPM/RPM 17.5 Killshot. I didn't go far. I think it was just from 57* to about 60*. All during my practice sessions (upwards of 5 minutes runtime each time) the motor only got up to about 155*F and the car was very quick/fast so I was very pleased.

Unfortunately, in the first race about half way through, the car abruptly coasted to a stop, let out a big flume of smoke, and died. Looks like the motor let go, but the really bad part is it took out my ESC in the process.

It was only then that I started hearing from numerous people that this is pretty common with the Killshot motors. I'm playing it safe and going elsewhere for my next motor.
Well you not suppose to run that much timing with an rpm rotor also. Most of the guys I know that run high timing have the rpm stator/ torque rotor combo. Personally I have been running an FDR of 3.9 with about 60 timing. When I ran rpm/rpm a while back I was geared closer to 4.1 and 55 timing
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:45 AM   #277
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First I've heard that, but it would've been good info to have.... Nonetheless, that's why I only went up a few degrees. Motor temps were very reasonable all night in practice so I had no inclination to think anything was out of the ordinary. But after the motor came off the track (and burned up) it was at nearly 200*F. It was only after I'd burned up the motor and ESC that several people then told me they had the exact same problem with these motors.

Maybe it was a fluke, but after the testimonies I've heard and my own personal experience, I'm going elsewhere for my next motor. IMHO, YMMV, blah, blah, blah...
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:36 PM   #278
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First I've heard that, but it would've been good info to have.... Nonetheless, that's why I only went up a few degrees. Motor temps were very reasonable all night in practice so I had no inclination to think anything was out of the ordinary. But after the motor came off the track (and burned up) it was at nearly 200*F. It was only after I'd burned up the motor and ESC that several people then told me they had the exact same problem with these motors.

Maybe it was a fluke, but after the testimonies I've heard and my own personal experience, I'm going elsewhere for my next motor. IMHO, YMMV, blah, blah, blah...
I had the exact thing hapen last week brand new motor. Temped at 130f for 3 runs and on the 4th it popped and took my orca vx with it...
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:05 PM   #279
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Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
Well, with the advice provided here I was able to increase the timing on my RPM/RPM 17.5 Killshot. I didn't go far. I think it was just from 57* to about 60*. All during my practice sessions (upwards of 5 minutes runtime each time) the motor only got up to about 155*F and the car was very quick/fast so I was very pleased.

Unfortunately, in the first race about half way through, the car abruptly coasted to a stop, let out a big flume of smoke, and died. Looks like the motor let go, but the really bad part is it took out my ESC in the process.

It was only then that I started hearing from numerous people that this is pretty common with the Killshot motors. I'm playing it safe and going elsewhere for my next motor.
Tommy I don't think you did anything wrong I believe these motors are shorting out the insulation is chaffing against itself and if you take the motor apart you might see a melted section of wire. When I took mine apart that is what I saw. When the motor died it didn't smoke the took the esc out too and it was smoking. It was only after 10 laps and I had run all of practice and a heat race the temps were good and then poof. I have since bought another Killshot a 21.5 and have run it 3 race days with no problems I think it is a problem in the 17.5 motors.
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:54 PM   #280
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Yeah, mine looks fairly similar to yours...
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:41 PM   #281
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Has anyone try the high torque stator/high torque rotor or high torque stator with high rpm rotor? which combination would be the best? I just got back from a race, the motor I ran was the high torque stator with stock rotor (purple). My FDR was 3.6 with motor timing of 70. After the 7 min. A main it came off 161 degrees. I finished third place. The 1st and 2nd place both were running Power Thunder with the green rotor (very high torque rotor) with motor timing of 35. Both motors came off about 167 degrees. According the them 167 degrees is pretty typical. Their gearing was about 3.8. I felt did not have the infield quickness compared to both 1st and 2nd place winners.

This was the USGT class (21.5). My question is does anyone know whether I should have changed my FDR to 3.8 and leave my motor timing on 70? or use a high torque rotor in the 21.5 Kill Shot (with high torque stator) with the FDR of 3.6 and leave the motor timing on 70?
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:14 PM   #282
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Originally Posted by bassman2 View Post
Has anyone try the high torque stator/high torque rotor or high torque stator with high rpm rotor? which combination would be the best? I just got back from a race, the motor I ran was the high torque stator with stock rotor (purple). My FDR was 3.6 with motor timing of 70. After the 7 min. A main it came off 161 degrees. I finished third place. The 1st and 2nd place both were running Power Thunder with the green rotor (very high torque rotor) with motor timing of 35. Both motors came off about 167 degrees. According the them 167 degrees is pretty typical. Their gearing was about 3.8. I felt did not have the infield quickness compared to both 1st and 2nd place winners.

This was the USGT class (21.5). My question is does anyone know whether I should have changed my FDR to 3.8 and leave my motor timing on 70? or use a high torque rotor in the 21.5 Kill Shot (with high torque stator) with the FDR of 3.6 and leave the motor timing on 70?
70* timing? That's a lot. I bet if you turn it down a little to like 55* you would see a good bit of infield difference. You can try the HT rotor and keep the 3.6 FDR and your low end will increase greatly. I would try the lower timings first as it's a free change. If that isn't a good enough improvement then try the HT rotor. But I would still lower that timing to 60* or less. At a certain point to much timing just produces heat and can cause poor performance.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:12 PM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman2 View Post
Has anyone try the high torque stator/high torque rotor or high torque stator with high rpm rotor? which combination would be the best? I just got back from a race, the motor I ran was the high torque stator with stock rotor (purple). My FDR was 3.6 with motor timing of 70. After the 7 min. A main it came off 161 degrees. I finished third place. The 1st and 2nd place both were running Power Thunder with the green rotor (very high torque rotor) with motor timing of 35. Both motors came off about 167 degrees. According the them 167 degrees is pretty typical. Their gearing was about 3.8. I felt did not have the infield quickness compared to both 1st and 2nd place winners.

This was the USGT class (21.5). My question is does anyone know whether I should have changed my FDR to 3.8 and leave my motor timing on 70? or use a high torque rotor in the 21.5 Kill Shot (with high torque stator) with the FDR of 3.6 and leave the motor timing on 70?
Bassman I have a Maxzilla 21.4 killshot we run it in our GT class rules are a little different 1380 grm wt rule and open tire rule, I ran the high torque rotor but I didn't like it in combo with the high torque stator. I agree with jerz616 go with less timing no more then about 63* and go with more gear 3.4 -3.5 fdr. buy the best fan you can get I use a 40mm WTF it drops the temps 20* over the other fans I have run. We have a very competitive gt3 and the fastest's cars use Killsot's or the older Revtech motors, also ORCA and Thunder Powers with the high torque rotors are fast too. All these motors are within .2 of each other!
As someone told me on the fastest 21.5 thread it's more about your car setup I thought he was implying I didn't know how to setup my car I was offended but he was right in 21.5 the set up is more important then anything it is more important then it is in 17.5.class. You have to get the car to turn without losing momentum.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:54 AM   #284
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Thank you very much guys for your suggestions.
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Last edited by bassman2; 11-30-2013 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:37 AM   #285
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so how does this motor in 17.5 racing compare to another 17.5 say the d3.5? or another motor
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