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Old 09-19-2013, 09:37 PM   #241
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With what motor rpm or torque?
Probably should have been more specific! Running the HT/HT setup
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:30 PM   #242
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Probably should have been more specific! Running the HT/HT setup
Always keep your motor timing around 58 to 60*! I would start playing with fdr at 3.7 and check temps. If motor is cool go lower. We have took the HT/HT as low as 3.4 fdr but that was for a large track. I also use a Superior Hobbies 30mm fan. A little costly but well worth the money. Keeps at least 20 to 30* off of motor and they are very durable and wont sputter or fade!
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:05 AM   #243
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Can someone confirm the factory setting for the motor timing on a Killshot 17.5T? Reason I ask is that I bought a "tuned" Killshot from someone who had changed the motor timing. My track only allows blinky and only factory set motor timing (i.e. if it comes from the factory set at 30 degrees, that's how it has to stay). I was told the Killshot comes set at 40 degrees....can someone confirm this for me?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:52 AM   #244
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Yes, sorry about that had to get my glasses on..LOL 40* is STOCK out the box.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:06 AM   #245
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Thanks, John. I trusted you, just wanted something public to point people too if the motor is too fast and people question it at the track. :-) Thanks again!

Also, for anyone looking, John and his company (Express Motorsports) are great to deal with. I have no doubt the product will match the service tonight when I do my first race with this motor.
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:58 PM   #246
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Default motor timing 13.5 WGT

I'm running a 13.5 in a WGT. 64p 88 spur 45 pinion. 53mm rear tire via. What timing can I put it to I have the rpm motor. Thanks in advance
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:45 PM   #247
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Has anyone run a 13.5 Killshot vs. a 13.5 D3.5?

Is it a step up? Faster? More torque?
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:05 AM   #248
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I need some help here please. I run a weekly dirt oval program and I recently have had 3 racers melt down 17.5 killshots on their first few runs.

Lemme give some background on their setups. First off all 3 motors were in 2wd sprint cars running the 17.5 sportsman sprint class. The rules for the class call for a few things in particular. Blinky esc, zero endbell timing, and spec gear ratio. No other motor I've seen run in this class has ever had any trouble running fine under these conditions. Spec gearing is conservative with most racers motors rarely going over 110 degrees. Our races are only 4 minutes long. All 3 racers also lost brand new HW justock escs when the motors went out. One of the killshots came off @220 degrees after only a few minutes of practice. Driveline on the car was free and all wiring was correct. Any ideas?

The motors were also very close in speed to all the other motors on track while they were actually running. (MD, orion, tekin gen 1 and 2, sonic mach 2 , revtech etc. Thanks for any advice you can offer.


P.S. Having to loosen the 3 motor screws (and remove motor from the car) to adjust endbell timing is rediculous! .
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:15 AM   #249
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Originally Posted by Hopper99 View Post
I need some help here please. I run a weekly dirt oval program and I recently have had 3 racers melt down 17.5 killshots on their first few runs.

Lemme give some background on their setups. First off all 3 motors were in 2wd sprint cars running the 17.5 sportsman sprint class. The rules for the class call for a few things in particular. Blinky esc, zero endbell timing, and spec gear ratio. No other motor I've seen run in this class has ever had any trouble running fine under these conditions. Spec gearing is conservative with most racers motors rarely going over 110 degrees. Our races are only 4 minutes long. All 3 racers also lost brand new HW justock escs when the motors went out. One of the killshots came off @220 degrees after only a few minutes of practice. Driveline on the car was free and all wiring was correct. Any ideas?

The motors were also very close in speed to all the other motors on track while they were actually running. (MD, orion, tekin gen 1 and 2, sonic mach 2 , revtech etc. Thanks for any advice you can offer.


P.S. Having to loosen the 3 motor screws (and remove motor from the car) to adjust endbell timing is rediculous! .
What was the fdr set at, and what motor was it ie: RPM or HT stator. I know on my killshots when I run a taller gearing like a 3.72 they run super cool. If I change the gearing to say a 4.0 the motor comes off hot. I think these motors are designed to run with taller gearing. Especially the HT stator. I know trinitys description say the RPM version is good for oval classes. Also, no need to take the motor out to chsnge timing. If the timing ring is tight just take it off and sand the edge a little. This will remove some of the anodizing that is making it stick.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:30 AM   #250
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Agreed, gearing the newer Trinity/Revtech motors to keep them cool mean you have to gear them relatively tall. Over or under gearing will both make my motors run hot and the Killshot seems to have a narrow window.

What was the spec FDR? RPM or TQ motor?
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:43 AM   #251
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Has anyone managed to fit one in a mi5 yet without having to buy extra stuff for it
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:50 AM   #252
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Agreed, gearing the newer Trinity/Revtech motors to keep them cool mean you have to gear them relatively tall. Over or under gearing will both make my motors run hot and the Killshot seems to have a narrow window.

What was the spec FDR? RPM or TQ motor?
We run on foams so fdr of a 4.04 and 2.8 tires ends up at 2.18 rollout. Thats what some of us are rolled at running 13.5s. Its surprising to me that no other motor has ever had any issues with this setup. Killshots are going out on first run and not lasting 4 minutes. All 3 were high rpm motors.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:03 PM   #253
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We run on foams so fdr of a 4.04 and 2.8 tires ends up at 2.18 rollout. Thats what some of us are rolled at running 13.5s. Its surprising to me that no other motor has ever had any issues with this setup. Killshots are going out on first run and not lasting 4 minutes. All 3 were high rpm motors.
That's pretty short on gearing those motors. It sounds like they are just getting over rev'd. and staying in the upper rpm range too long. That can kill a motor just as easy as being over geared. Are you running pretty long straights?
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:14 PM   #254
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That's pretty short on gearing those motors. It sounds like they are just getting over rev'd. and staying in the upper rpm range too long. That can kill a motor just as easy as being over geared. Are you running pretty long straights?
I'm not convinced about that but it could be the case.

They have a 2.8 tire, most TC tires are about 2.5. So, if you look at rollout you need to gear a TC tire around 3.6fdr to get apples to apples to their tire. 3.6 is in the ballpark for Killshots at most tracks.

The other consideration is that almost all TC guys crank up the timing in these motors. I know the general rule says that moving the timing up adds heat and that down cools it off but that only works within a certain window, which varies a bit motor to motor. Too low of timing is just like to short of gearing and can overheat motors too. Remember, timing is adjusted to align the energy from the stator to the rotor to create movement. Misalignment of that timing too early or too late can be an issue.

Killshots are finicky motors, and it may just be possible that your particular set of rules doesn't work well with them.
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:32 PM   #255
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I would put money on the 0deg endbell timing being the cause of the failures... Zero on the Killshot is actually a true zero degree alignment, which is 30deg below most other motor's nominal zero position.
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