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Old 08-20-2013, 06:03 PM   #196
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Send Jim Deter an email and he will respond pretty fast. I bought both the killshots and neither fit in my T4. I sent him an email and he responded the following day and I had 2 new end bells 2 days later.
Same experience here! I had a free endbell in no-time!
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:28 PM   #197
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Same experience here! I had a free endbell in no-time!
Correction....The end bell wasnt free. You got properly made end bell that you already paid for in the mail in a few days. LOL

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Old 08-20-2013, 06:46 PM   #198
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Is this endbell issue the reason why my timing ring is impossible to turn?
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:08 PM   #199
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Is this endbell issue the reason why my timing ring is impossible to turn?
No. The endbell has to do with the front screw holes drilled incorrectly to fit in some cars. Yours has to do with the timing ring on the other end. The anodizing is a little thick and makes it tight to turn. Take the timing ring off and just lightly sand around the edge once or twice. Will be perfect afterwards.
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:51 PM   #200
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Hi everyone. I got one question about the shimming of the end bell bearing for my kill shot RPM.
Recently I open the motor to replace the rotor with TEP1112 high torque one.
But I forgot how many shims I suppose to put back on. So I put 3 shims (close but not touch to the timing sensor unit).
but yesterday I open my friend's Fantom Apex V2 motor (It is supposed to be identical to Kill shot motor).
it got 4 pieces shims in between.
and I feel a bit slop with my rotor.
With my friend's apex 2 rotor, I feel almost no movement inside the stator.
can I still keep my motor untouched just like this or should I open it up and add one more shim?
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:24 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by sashimi999 View Post
Hi everyone. I got one question about the shimming of the end bell bearing for my kill shot RPM.
Recently I open the motor to replace the rotor with TEP1112 high torque one.
But I forgot how many shims I suppose to put back on. So I put 3 shims (close but not touch to the timing sensor unit).
but yesterday I open my friend's Fantom Apex V2 motor (It is supposed to be identical to Kill shot motor).
it got 4 pieces shims in between.
and I feel a bit slop with my rotor.
With my friend's apex 2 rotor, I feel almost no movement inside the stator.
can I still keep my motor untouched just like this or should I open it up and add one more shim?
when you added the three shims did you have any left over? And where did you put them?
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:47 PM   #202
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when you added the three shims did you have any left over? And where did you put them?
The HT rotor I ordered come along with 3 shims.
But for the original rotor....I can't remember because When I pulled it out, shims dropped off some ,then I can only found 3....
So I guessed it would be 3 shims on the timing sensor end.
last night my friend's Fantom motor showed up 4 shims that's why I am concern about.
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:08 PM   #203
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Motors and rotors can vary on shimming. There are usually 3-4 shims on upper rotor shaft and large barrel spacer on lower pinion side of shaft on most all motors. At times from a tuner you may find 3 shims on top and 4th with barrel spacer on bottom. As long as rotor is not hitting sensor on top your ok. If motor is too tight with no free play and you cant remove a upper shim w/o sensor rubbing ,slightly sand barrel spacer to get rotor free spinning. You want a little slop not a lot..
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:34 PM   #204
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Motors and rotors can vary on shimming. There are usually 3-4 shims on upper rotor shaft and large barrel spacer on lower pinion side of shaft on most all motors. At times from a tuner you may find 3 shims on top and 4th with barrel spacer on bottom. As long as rotor is not hitting sensor on top your ok. If motor is too tight with no free play and you cant remove a upper shim w/o sensor rubbing ,slightly sand barrel spacer to get rotor free spinning. You want a little slop not a lot..
yea it is not touching sensor unit.
so it is supposed to be OK. right?
May add a 4th one to the other end next time when doing cleaning.
Thanks for your answer.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:35 AM   #205
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I know with original revtech's and D3.5's you want a total shim measurement near 1mm on sensor board side, whether that's 2,3, or 4 shims your total should be near 1mm. If too much rotor free play add shims to non-sensor side or pinion side only.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:05 AM   #206
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http://roarracing.org/4rmb/showthrea...llshot-T-1601T

13.5 is now ROAR legal.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:53 AM   #207
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what do people think is the best killshot motor to run in a 12 scale?
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:20 PM   #208
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So which motor do you guys like better the killshot or the D3.5.
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:44 PM   #209
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Default High RPM 17.5 stator with HT 12.5mm Rotor

Anyone have a good setup in terms of Motor Timing and FDR with the Kill Shot High RPM 17.5 stator with HT 12.5mm Rotor Brushless Motor in the Blinky 17.5 class?

Track is indoor, 36x80 ozite carpet.

Good fan used. 6 minute races.

Thanks!

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Old 09-02-2013, 12:38 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spammy View Post
what do people think is the best killshot motor to run in a 12 scale?
Not 100% sure but I would say torque version!
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Originally Posted by ngo8 View Post
So which motor do you guys like better the killshot or the D3.5.
D3.5 but since we've moved on from that I am looking forward to the D4!
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Anyone have a good setup in terms of Motor Timing and FDR with the Kill Shot High RPM 17.5 stator with HT 12.5mm Rotor Brushless Motor in the Blinky 17.5 class?

Track is indoor, 36x80 ozite carpet.

Good fan used. 6 minute races.

Thanks!
Ivan
We have been running them at 58 or 59* of timing and you can start your gearing at 3.6 fdr and temp after a few minutes. I have worked down to 3.4ish fdr!
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