tcboy1983

wish they did a new pit towel with the new blue logo for the mi5 to replace my old one

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Downstops and droop are two different things... but very closely related. If you measure droop properly (chassis rise before tire lift), you don't need to look at downstops.

tcboy1983

Never heard of down stops ? Where are they

JanE

your downstops are the screws u use to set your droop. This is indeed very close related but still different.. cause droop is ur actual chassis lift over ride height , and ur downstop settings is what 90% of the drivers place in their setup sheets. So if i read that in Hofer's setup he uses 4,5 and 5,5 mm droop.. then those are his downstop settings. Cause droop in general is between 2 and 4 mm over ride height.

Another factor is that if ur droop is set over ride heigt that doesnt mean ur downstop settings are the same left and right. Downstop settings should be equal left and right when u set ur droop. If they are not and ur droop is equal left and right ur chassis is tweaked. So if ur chassis is good and ur downstop settings are equeal left and right both tires should lift the same time.

edit: this explains is a little better : http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...6d8263120acff6

tcboy1983

Cool learn something new each day

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Well no, those are still your droop screws. Down stops is the difference in mm between the chassis, and the bottom of the control arm. The setting in and of itself, to me... is pretty pointless, as the amount of droop you have then depends on your ride height. So you can have a lot of droop, or very little droop by changing your ride height... but your downstops settings never change. So it's something I never look at.

-Set ride height
-measure /set droop
-make sure L and R droop the same
-done

YMMV - There is more than one way to skin the setup cat.

machocave

I'm like you and like to take my time in building out my kit and make sure that I have my setup going just right

machocave

Lol! I do love the Schumacher brand and the logo is awesome and the company support is great I highly recommend getting the banners because they do intimidate the other drivers at my local track

Pinion King

Finally got to put the car on the track, car is a winner in my book. I nearly beat the times of my CX which I had been driving for over 2 years.

The car responds to the smallest of changes.

I had Hofer's setup on running in Mod and I was struggling with a lot of oversteer all night. Constantly had to use reverse lock. If I can put down quick laptimes with that, then can't wait until I settle the car down in the next few weeks.

Some of it was the nut behind the wheel having to change his driving style to work with a spool which I have never used at this track before.

Dusttt

iTrader: (144)

where does it show the 4236 screws used? I don't see them on the explosion

and the manual says not to replace with alloy

Pinion King

It's on the amendment sheet, and the alloy screws are used only on the front arm pivots.

nmsraider

These screws, they are showing out of stock at the moment but I ordered some this week when they were in stock as I broke one on Friday.
http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/New_Ca...Mi5/U4236.html

weekendracer_uk

Now fitted with a shorty Lipo ready for testing, min weight 1350g limit car is now 1355g ready to race in the 17.5 blinky class.

machocave

Wow! Your Mi5 looks fantastic!

Ozasis

iTrader: (1)

Just checking. Is it normal for front wheel hub bearings to sit out by about 1mm? Looks odd but I guess there is less chance for compression on the bearing