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Old 09-21-2013, 05:45 AM   #1396
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what's the difference about stock and this V2 block?
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the v2 block has less chamfer i believe so it wont strip as easily as the first versions
Purcy is correct .. the difference is subtle. When used with the V2 pin, Schumacher says the the joints strength is improved 25 -30%

..p
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:29 AM   #1397
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I have my Mi5 setup as mid-motor and it is ready to run. I have a club race tomorrow so we'll see how it compares to the S1 I've been running to date in the 17.5 blinky class.

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Old 09-21-2013, 12:01 PM   #1398
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I have my Mi5 setup as mid-motor and it is ready to run. I have a club race tomorrow so we'll see how it compares to the S1 I've been running to date in the 17.5 blinky class.
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:53 PM   #1399
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I have my Mi5 setup as mid-motor and it is ready to run. I have a club race tomorrow so we'll see how it compares to the S1 I've been running to date in the 17.5 blinky class.
You really need a shorty pack on there,with the speedo on the same side as the shorty.
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:56 PM   #1400
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You really need a shorty pack on there,with the speedo on the same side as the shorty.
Really? the battery is moved further forward to be in line with the electrics on the other side with the mid motor setup, if he needs further weight then he is better off putting stick on weights either side.
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Old 09-21-2013, 03:19 PM   #1401
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You really need a shorty pack on there,with the speedo on the same side as the shorty.
With the mid-motor configuration, there is a more forward weight bias and I tried to have the battery inline with the steering servo, motor and ESC to try to balance things. Stick-on lead weight can be used for fine tuning later. Besides, I don't have a shorty lipo and used what I already own.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:39 PM   #1402
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With the mid-motor configuration, there is a more forward weight bias and I tried to have the battery inline with the steering servo, motor and ESC to try to balance things. Stick-on lead weight can be used for fine tuning later. Besides, I don't have a shorty lipo and used what I already own.
It'll be interesting to see how the mid-motor works on asphalt tommorow. The traction will be pretty low with the cold weather.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:02 PM   #1403
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Default Mid motor setup

Could a couple others post pics of their mid motor layouts? Thanks.
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Old 09-22-2013, 04:40 AM   #1404
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Hi I'm thinking of changing to mid motor setup could someone tell me what parts I need to do this thanks
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Old 09-22-2013, 04:40 AM   #1405
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well the front alloy screws work as intended.

sheared one on the left suspension arm/wishbone this morning
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:00 AM   #1406
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Hi I'm thinking of changing to mid motor setup could someone tell me what parts I need to do this thanks
Schumacher has a conversion kit, part number U4290.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:56 AM   #1407
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I used to have a mi4lp. This new mi5 looks amazing!
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:58 AM   #1408
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Hi I'm thinking of changing to mid motor setup could someone tell me what parts I need to do this thanks

Here you go! In stock and ready to ship ..

http://www.discountrcstore.com/U4290...i5_p/u4290.htm


..p
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:08 AM   #1409
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I dont see the extra top braces
you really needs the rear braces?
There is an extra pair of holes drilled in the top deck rails, and I just used an extra U2482 brace. The position is actually just after the rise in the rails, and above the two lower deck screw positions that are used to mount the steering sub-assembly. Flipping the brace upside down, clears the belt fine.

As for the rear braces, are they a must have? Honestly, I can't say yet. I literally put them on the car, and ran them all day. Didn't do a back to back without them, so I can't yet comment on the difference they make.

Otherwise, had a good day with the car today, in preperation for our state titles next week. Started out with the Grainger WLRC setup, with a couple of little tweaks... and car was really good from the get go. Ran through a load of changes, and the main findings for me were to use the front gear-diff (as fast as a spool, but more consistent), take out a little front droop (5.0 on a gauge), and using the extra front top deck brace mentioned above. Car seemed to handle the bumps in the track well, with good steering all through the turns, and carried good corner speed. Had a few comments on how the car looked, and it also seems to suit my driving style... quite competitive too boot.

Still more to try out on friday, and then into racing proper on saturday. Setup here.

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Old 09-22-2013, 06:16 AM   #1410
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Schumacher has a conversion kit, part number U4290.
Thanks for your help just needed to know i'd got everything need I bought the parts separatly just needed to get the cf lipo holder so my battey would fit didnt realize there was acconversation kit
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