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Old 08-16-2013, 08:40 PM   #1231
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Originally Posted by Shock Tower View Post
I had the same problem with my Mi5, and the surgestion to me was to adjustbthe lenght of the sway bar arms/links. And the worked for me, when I was making the one shortervthan the other, and now they lift up the same amount, but they are different lenght.
Thanks for that. Got the problem sorted, had the idea to use a droop gauge to make sure each arm behaves the same. Ended up with quite a difference in length between the links though.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:29 PM   #1232
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Thanks for that. Got the problem sorted, had the idea to use a droop gauge to make sure each arm behaves the same. Ended up with quite a difference in length between the links though.
An earlier post (on the previous page) reports how lifting one wishbone transfers movement immediately to the other side whilst lifting the other does not.

Assuming the sway bar is not distorted (one end higher than the other) I would try to see if both wishbones transfer lift across to the other side with the shocks disconnected. If there is a delay then you now there's a problem with one of the wishbones, perhaps something is binding, etc.

If movement is transferred consistently from one side to the other, then the problem might be with the springs/shocks. Are the shocks compressed equally? Do the pistons move freely in the shocks? Check shock assembly to make sure pistons don't cock inside the shock.

Having largely different length sway bar links is a sign something else is not quite right.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:41 AM   #1233
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
An earlier post (on the previous page) reports how lifting one wishbone transfers movement immediately to the other side whilst lifting the other does not.

Assuming the sway bar is not distorted (one end higher than the other) I would try to see if both wishbones transfer lift across to the other side with the shocks disconnected. If there is a delay then you now there's a problem with one of the wishbones, perhaps something is binding, etc.

If movement is transferred consistently from one side to the other, then the problem might be with the springs/shocks. Are the shocks compressed equally? Do the pistons move freely in the shocks? Check shock assembly to make sure pistons don't cock inside the shock.

Having largely different length sway bar links is a sign something else is not quite right.
I found the problem originally with the dampers off the car, so I do need to investigate further.

The car was a beast on the track today, fastest in every heat, TQ and A Main win. Not bad at all for first time out. Also smashed my Pb by 5/10ths.

I'll clean it all up, rebuild the dampers and diff, and search for the cause of my sway bar tweak.
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:12 AM   #1234
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I found the problem originally with the dampers off the car, so I do need to investigate further.

The car was a beast on the track today, fastest in every heat, TQ and A Main win. Not bad at all for first time out. Also smashed my Pb by 5/10ths.

I'll clean it all up, rebuild the dampers and diff, and search for the cause of my sway bar tweak.
Check the suspension arms fall freely under their own weight with everything (including sway bar) disconnected. You might have something too tight somewhere. If they don't, slacken the inner hingepin supports (just break the screws) and see what happens then. If the arms still don't move freely, check the outer hingepins for tightness. Hudy makes some really good reamers and contrary to my previous opinion they are useful sometimes when building a brand new car. Sometimes these are the only thing that can help. A brand new drillbit of the right size does the same job and it's cheaper. Push it all the way in and out without twisting a few times.

If the arms move freely after you just break loose the inner hingepin support screws, you found your problem. Investigate and rectify. I found some supports just pinch a tiny bit the hingepin but enough to make arm movement stiff. If there's no manufacturing problem, then just doing up all four screws a bit at a time is enough to allow everything to settle with good working clearance.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:34 AM   #1235
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Havent had the chance to read through all the thread yet but here do you guys measure your droop from?
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:52 AM   #1236
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Havent had the chance to read through all the thread yet but here do you guys measure your droop from?
I had the same question a while back. I now measure on 10 mm blocks, and underneath the outer caster blocks, with the tool turning north and south because of plastic mounts for the shocks.

Hope you know what I mean.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:26 AM   #1237
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Havent had the chance to read through all the thread yet but here do you guys measure your droop from?
You measure droop from under the chassis, just like ride height. Droop is the difference between chassis height sitting static, and chassis height just before the tires are going to lift from the ground.

So if your ride height measures at 5mm... and your tires lift off the ground when your ride height says 8mm, that's 3mms droop. Easy as that.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:14 AM   #1238
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Default Droop

Agree with above, you measure your droop like ride height and lift the front or rear until the wheels start to lift then the difference between settled and wheels about to leave the setup board is your droop.

Down stop is the measurement posted 2 x above using 10mm blocks.

to be honest I really only do down stop and don't really know of many people who alter the droop as it takes forever.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:04 AM   #1239
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Post trouble fitting 17.5 into mi5

Any body having trouble fitting killshot 17.5 into mi5? Do you have to run 64pitch gears?Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:55 AM   #1240
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Any body having trouble fitting killshot 17.5 into mi5? Do you have to run 64pitch gears?Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers
How is it not fitting? Gear/spur size? Mounting bolt pattern?
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:45 AM   #1241
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Any body having trouble fitting killshot 17.5 into mi5? Do you have to run 64pitch gears?Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers
You might have to pull the motor apart and rotate the end bell so the screw holes line up with the motor mount. If that don't work you will have to get a end bell from a revtech motor.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:18 AM   #1242
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Post killshot endbell

New endbell it is. Turning out to be expensive motor.
Trinity page 10 explains it all.
Thanks for the help
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:53 AM   #1243
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Any body having trouble fitting killshot 17.5 into mi5? Do you have to run 64pitch gears?Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers
Yep.. does not fit. Older school trinity end-bell required. Trinity changed the hole pattern, and it doesn't line up with more than 1 hole at a time. However, the new endbell fits fine on your more classic motor mount, like a buggy, so don't throw it away.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:41 PM   #1244
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Default CG Spreadsheet for Mi5

Was wondering what the relative effect of moving the motor and the battery would be so I worked up a crude CG spreadsheet to show the CG position in the various configurations of cell position, cell size (shorty/stick), and motor position. This is for the measured weight of my gear and doesn't include the motor wires or the mass of the motor mount moving but I figure it gives an idea of the relative effect of each change. All cg positions and levers are relative to the front axle center-line.

CG in cm from front axle
Rear Motor:
Stick Mid: 13.79
Stick Fwd: 13.63
Stick Rear 13.97
Mid Motor:
Stick Mid: 13.12
Stick Fwd: 12.97
Stick Rear 13.25
Rear Motor:
Shorty Mid: 12.90
Shorty Fwd: 12.77
Shorty Rear 13.03
Mid Motor:
Shorty Mid: 11.98
Shorty Fwd: 11.85
Shorty Rear 12.03
Attached Files
File Type: zip Mi5 CG Workup.xlsx.zip (33.5 KB, 62 views)
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #1245
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OK Guys, I am not new to TC but this kit is new to me. I was hoping home page/first page had building tips. Can someone give me pointers BEFORE I start.

thanks,
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