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Old 08-10-2013, 09:00 PM
  #1201  
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with the shorter shafts, you are able to set your droop properly, and not have your shocks be pre-loaded by the droop screws. makes setting your droop way easier. (this is just my opinion)...
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop
the kit has the distance from the bottom of the shock body to the top of the ball cup at 12 to12 1/2 mm. Martin Hofer's setup has the distance at 10.5 mm. The only way to get to the shorter distance is to cut the shock shaft (on the threaded end) 3 mm. I cut mine with a dremel tool. works great.
I just put a 2mm shim on the shock shaft inside the shock so it couldn't come out as far - works for me
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop
the kit has the distance from the bottom of the shock body to the top of the ball cup at 12 to12 1/2 mm. Martin Hofer's setup has the distance at 10.5 mm. The only way to get to the shorter distance is to cut the shock shaft (on the threaded end) 3 mm. I cut mine with a dremel tool. works great.
Maybe a stupid question, but when you are using the Yokomo spring on standard lenght shocks, then it seems like there is no room for shortining the lenght of the springs ?

So I would think, that if I took 3 mm off the lenght, then there would be preload on the springs, even when they were not mounted on the car.

Woulden't that be wrong ?

And again, maybe I am totally wrong.
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Shock Tower
Maybe a stupid question, but when you are using the Yokomo spring on standard lenght shocks, then it seems like there is no room for shortining the lenght of the springs ?

So I would think, that if I took 3 mm off the lenght, then there would be preload on the springs, even when they were not mounted on the car.

Woulden't that be wrong ?

And again, maybe I am totally wrong.
Ask AdrianM, he has used the yoke springs on carpet. I haven't used them yet.
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Shock Tower
Maybe a stupid question, but when you are using the Yokomo spring on standard lenght shocks, then it seems like there is no room for shortining the lenght of the springs ?

So I would think, that if I took 3 mm off the lenght, then there would be preload on the springs, even when they were not mounted on the car.

Woulden't that be wrong ?

And again, maybe I am totally wrong.
You're right the is a little preload but the car drives great so I'm not bothered about it
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dorkmissle
Hi, ran my Mi5 for the first time tonight on med grip carpet. Car was pretty good out of the box. Lots of steering. A little skaty on power (could be my 4.5t and heavy trigger finger) Looking to get yok springs and go up on oil a bit. might need less rear toe. Only wish the diff height could be adjusted.
Try putting the diff cams on the opposite side to kit
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:22 PM
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Is there anyone who has checked toe in rear. On my car it is 3 degrees on right and 4 degrees on left.
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mik1903
Is there anyone who has checked toe in rear. On my car it is 3 degrees on right and 4 degrees on left.
Due to the tight tolerances, the car can give toe settings that are out. What you need to do when tightening up the arm mounts are:

1. Don't tighten screw fully initially
2. once firm but not tight, use the wrench supplied
3. make sure you tighten the arm mount nuts using the wrench (ie. on the left side turn the wrench towards the same way on both screws and repeat on the right side)
4. if it is still out, gently loosen a little and repeat.

This should hopefully get the arms aligned properly.

HTH.

Leonard.
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop
with the shorter shafts, you are able to set your droop properly, and not have your shocks be pre-loaded by the droop screws. makes setting your droop way easier. (this is just my opinion)...
Yes, droop can be set properly when using the shorter length shock shafts (ie. MH 10.6mm)
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mik1903
Is there anyone who has checked toe in rear. On my car it is 3 degrees on right and 4 degrees on left.
Not checked mine since built sure mine was spot on,have you got a damaged screw??
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Quietman
Not checked mine since built sure mine was spot on,have you got a damaged screw??
all screw look fine
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:46 PM
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I read Martin Hofer's latest blog. In it, he mentioned cutting the front arms. Does anyone have an idea of where they were cut, how much was cut,and why?
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:42 PM
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They're cutting through and removing a section from from arm between inner mount screws. Lets the arm flex and improves stability under brakes.

I have seen one done, but yet to try myself. Don't have photo sorry.
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:52 AM
  #1214  
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Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375
Due to the tight tolerances, the car can give toe settings that are out. What you need to do when tightening up the arm mounts are:

1. Don't tighten screw fully initially
2. once firm but not tight, use the wrench supplied
3. make sure you tighten the arm mount nuts using the wrench (ie. on the left side turn the wrench towards the same way on both screws and repeat on the right side)
4. if it is still out, gently loosen a little and repeat.

This should hopefully get the arms aligned properly.

HTH.

Leonard.
i will try this thanks for help
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by scott_g
They're cutting through and removing a section from from arm between inner mount screws. Lets the arm flex and improves stability under brakes.

I have seen one done, but yet to try myself. Don't have photo sorry.
+1!!!
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