R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-10-2013, 10:00 PM   #1201
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 515
Default

with the shorter shafts, you are able to set your droop properly, and not have your shocks be pre-loaded by the droop screws. makes setting your droop way easier. (this is just my opinion)...
gdcopbdcop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2013, 11:55 PM   #1202
Tech Addict
 
mutley001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Kent, UK
Posts: 662
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
the kit has the distance from the bottom of the shock body to the top of the ball cup at 12 to12 1/2 mm. Martin Hofer's setup has the distance at 10.5 mm. The only way to get to the shorter distance is to cut the shock shaft (on the threaded end) 3 mm. I cut mine with a dremel tool. works great.
I just put a 2mm shim on the shock shaft inside the shock so it couldn't come out as far - works for me
__________________
ARC R11 2017
ARC R10 2013
EA Motorsports www.teameamotorsports.com
Team EAM
mutley001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 01:15 AM   #1203
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 292
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
the kit has the distance from the bottom of the shock body to the top of the ball cup at 12 to12 1/2 mm. Martin Hofer's setup has the distance at 10.5 mm. The only way to get to the shorter distance is to cut the shock shaft (on the threaded end) 3 mm. I cut mine with a dremel tool. works great.
Maybe a stupid question, but when you are using the Yokomo spring on standard lenght shocks, then it seems like there is no room for shortining the lenght of the springs ?

So I would think, that if I took 3 mm off the lenght, then there would be preload on the springs, even when they were not mounted on the car.

Woulden't that be wrong ?

And again, maybe I am totally wrong.
Shock Tower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 01:48 AM   #1204
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 515
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock Tower View Post
Maybe a stupid question, but when you are using the Yokomo spring on standard lenght shocks, then it seems like there is no room for shortining the lenght of the springs ?

So I would think, that if I took 3 mm off the lenght, then there would be preload on the springs, even when they were not mounted on the car.

Woulden't that be wrong ?

And again, maybe I am totally wrong.
Ask AdrianM, he has used the yoke springs on carpet. I haven't used them yet.
gdcopbdcop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 06:46 AM   #1205
Tech Addict
 
mutley001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Kent, UK
Posts: 662
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock Tower View Post
Maybe a stupid question, but when you are using the Yokomo spring on standard lenght shocks, then it seems like there is no room for shortining the lenght of the springs ?

So I would think, that if I took 3 mm off the lenght, then there would be preload on the springs, even when they were not mounted on the car.

Woulden't that be wrong ?

And again, maybe I am totally wrong.
You're right the is a little preload but the car drives great so I'm not bothered about it
__________________
ARC R11 2017
ARC R10 2013
EA Motorsports www.teameamotorsports.com
Team EAM
mutley001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 12:27 PM   #1206
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: In a house
Posts: 209
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkmissle View Post
Hi, ran my Mi5 for the first time tonight on med grip carpet. Car was pretty good out of the box. Lots of steering. A little skaty on power (could be my 4.5t and heavy trigger finger) Looking to get yok springs and go up on oil a bit. might need less rear toe. Only wish the diff height could be adjusted.
Try putting the diff cams on the opposite side to kit
Quietman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 02:22 PM   #1207
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: denmark
Posts: 8
Default

Is there anyone who has checked toe in rear. On my car it is 3 degrees on right and 4 degrees on left.
mik1903 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 03:15 PM   #1208
Tech Master
 
DirtyDog3375's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Queenslander
Posts: 1,865
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to DirtyDog3375
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mik1903 View Post
Is there anyone who has checked toe in rear. On my car it is 3 degrees on right and 4 degrees on left.
Due to the tight tolerances, the car can give toe settings that are out. What you need to do when tightening up the arm mounts are:

1. Don't tighten screw fully initially
2. once firm but not tight, use the wrench supplied
3. make sure you tighten the arm mount nuts using the wrench (ie. on the left side turn the wrench towards the same way on both screws and repeat on the right side)
4. if it is still out, gently loosen a little and repeat.

This should hopefully get the arms aligned properly.

HTH.

Leonard.
__________________
:::RCMaker.com.au:::Speedy RC.com.au:::
==========================================================
Items that helps empty my wallet:
Awesomatix A800 - Sanwa M12S - R1 wurks - Team Silverbak Lipos - Muchmore - Axon
==========================================================
DirtyDog3375 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 03:16 PM   #1209
Tech Master
 
DirtyDog3375's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Queenslander
Posts: 1,865
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to DirtyDog3375
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
with the shorter shafts, you are able to set your droop properly, and not have your shocks be pre-loaded by the droop screws. makes setting your droop way easier. (this is just my opinion)...
Yes, droop can be set properly when using the shorter length shock shafts (ie. MH 10.6mm)
__________________
:::RCMaker.com.au:::Speedy RC.com.au:::
==========================================================
Items that helps empty my wallet:
Awesomatix A800 - Sanwa M12S - R1 wurks - Team Silverbak Lipos - Muchmore - Axon
==========================================================
DirtyDog3375 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 03:18 PM   #1210
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: In a house
Posts: 209
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mik1903 View Post
Is there anyone who has checked toe in rear. On my car it is 3 degrees on right and 4 degrees on left.
Not checked mine since built sure mine was spot on,have you got a damaged screw??
Quietman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 03:34 PM   #1211
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: denmark
Posts: 8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quietman View Post
Not checked mine since built sure mine was spot on,have you got a damaged screw??
all screw look fine
mik1903 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 04:46 PM   #1212
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 515
Default

I read Martin Hofer's latest blog. In it, he mentioned cutting the front arms. Does anyone have an idea of where they were cut, how much was cut,and why?
gdcopbdcop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2013, 07:42 PM   #1213
Tech Master
 
scott_g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, Aus
Posts: 1,785
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to scott_g Send a message via Skype™ to scott_g
Default

They're cutting through and removing a section from from arm between inner mount screws. Lets the arm flex and improves stability under brakes.

I have seen one done, but yet to try myself. Don't have photo sorry.
__________________
schumacher, speedpassion and more plus race blog at www.actionrc.com.au
twittering @ scottyg_rc
scott_g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 01:52 AM   #1214
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: denmark
Posts: 8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375 View Post
Due to the tight tolerances, the car can give toe settings that are out. What you need to do when tightening up the arm mounts are:

1. Don't tighten screw fully initially
2. once firm but not tight, use the wrench supplied
3. make sure you tighten the arm mount nuts using the wrench (ie. on the left side turn the wrench towards the same way on both screws and repeat on the right side)
4. if it is still out, gently loosen a little and repeat.

This should hopefully get the arms aligned properly.

HTH.

Leonard.
i will try this thanks for help
mik1903 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 03:28 AM   #1215
Tech Master
 
DirtyDog3375's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Queenslander
Posts: 1,865
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to DirtyDog3375
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_g View Post
They're cutting through and removing a section from from arm between inner mount screws. Lets the arm flex and improves stability under brakes.

I have seen one done, but yet to try myself. Don't have photo sorry.
+1!!!
__________________
:::RCMaker.com.au:::Speedy RC.com.au:::
==========================================================
Items that helps empty my wallet:
Awesomatix A800 - Sanwa M12S - R1 wurks - Team Silverbak Lipos - Muchmore - Axon
==========================================================
DirtyDog3375 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:39 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0