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Old 08-07-2013, 08:02 PM   #1186
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So nothing bad to report so far no brakes no issues. I am really enjoying driving my mi5. I have tried a lot of different setups and have found something I like finally, I am very interested in running a shorty lipo once I can get my hands on 1! The out of box setup I was really impressed with. This was a pleasure to drive after changing from my cxl which took me months to dial in. Both cars are getting faster every time I get to race at the clubs I attend. looking forward to my next outing.

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Old 08-07-2013, 09:44 PM   #1187
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I started my front diff at 600,000... I would start there, but after a good run in, I felt like I might of needed 800 or 1mil. Depends on how much diff action you want up front. What is your goal by moving to a front diff?
No real goal at the moment, just looking at my options for an upcoming championships. I haven't run a front geardiff since I ran a sakura zero, 4 cars ago.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:14 PM   #1188
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No real goal at the moment, just looking at my options for an upcoming championships. I haven't run a front geardiff since I ran a sakura zero, 4 cars ago.
If you run somewhere around 1mil, it will add just that bit of turn-in as the weight is transferred to the front tires.. where a spool will push just a tiny bit. Running that thick, will also give you great exit power like the spool. I also recommend the diff on bumpy tracks... it just makes the front end a little less edgy. On high traction smooth tracks, I prefer the spool.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:14 PM   #1189
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Thread has been quiet lately... so I figure ill post up a pic. New single color shell painted up for the Summer Sizzler this weekend, in Tacoma WA. Fri, Sat, and Sun weekend long race. Should be a ton of fun!

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Old 08-08-2013, 11:29 PM   #1190
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Nice B...you get 'message'?
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:05 AM   #1191
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Nice B...you get 'message'?
Sent you PM.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:58 AM   #1192
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I ran my Mi5 at the weekend for the first time in competition and was very pleased with it. The club I race at allow you to run Sorex 28 tyres and then use Ride 34 tyres as the main club tyre. I felt the Mi5 was fantastic when it was cooler and I was running the softer Sorex tyres - I am still chasing a really good setup for the Ride 34 tyres but the car is definitely very nice to drive - I ran Chris Graingers Cotswold setup with 0.5mm shims under the bulkheads and changed my shocks to have 20% rebound. One change that I made that surprised me was going to harder springs (Schumacher Reds) later in the day to try and work the Ride 32 tyres harder and it seemed to work for me - the theory being that the Mi5 is quite flexible and the harder springs work the tyres harder. Something I will continue to experiment with.

During the day I did have the biggest crash of the day - on our track there is a sweeping corner onto the straight that allows you to build up speed but if you get it wrong (like I did!) you end up crashing into the track boundary. I did this at full speed and thought that I would be replacing carbon arms etc. When I got down to the car I discovered that I had broken a rear hub and that the front hub had pulled out of the kingpin. I could not believe that was all that was broken - I know some people have had some issues with the front hubs and kingpins just coming apart but this was not one of those LOL. I have since ordered a new set of hubs and Schumacher are definitely rolling out the new hub running fix as I now have a set of them... so bottom line is that I am giving the Mi5 100% for strength/build quality.

Roll on next week...
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:05 AM   #1193
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Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
During the day I did have the biggest crash of the day - on our track there is a sweeping corner onto the straight that allows you to build up speed but if you get it wrong (like I did!) you end up crashing into the track boundary. I did this at full speed and thought that I would be replacing carbon arms etc. When I got down to the car I discovered that I had broken a rear hub and that the front hub had pulled out of the kingpin. I could not believe that was all that was broken - I know some people have had some issues with the front hubs and kingpins just coming apart but this was not one of those LOL. I have since ordered a new set of hubs and Schumacher are definitely rolling out the new hub running fix as I now have a set of them... so bottom line is that I am giving the Mi5 100% for strength/build quality.

Roll on next week...
What are the changes they've made to the hubs?
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:16 AM   #1194
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What are the changes they've made to the hubs?
I will try and post a picture later on... on the original there is a bit of an angle into the bit where they tell you in the manual to pre-thread. This is now flat so would give more plastic for the kingpin to screw into.
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:38 PM   #1195
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love gear diff up front, looking to something thicker than 500,000....great on the bumps in mod.
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:43 PM   #1196
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Has anyone tried running the Subaru type c body on the mi5? What did you think of it??
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:03 AM   #1197
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Ran the car last night on carpet mid-motor rubber tyres, for the first time all I can say is wow.The car was absolutely planted. Run kit set up,the only thing I changed was red springs on the back. The only issue I had was the front spool belt fences, in the manual it dose not tell you to glue them in place I recommend you do as I had the belt come off guess when, yep in the finial
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:04 PM   #1198
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Do I need to modify the shock shafts to run them on the Mi5? Thanks.
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:16 PM   #1199
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Do I need to modify the shock shafts to run them on the Mi5? Thanks.
I haven't modified my shafts. Is this something that has been done on schuie shocks??? I am intrigued how this would help?? After reading martins blog my ears are open.
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Old 08-10-2013, 09:57 PM   #1200
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I haven't modified my shafts. Is this something that has been done on schuie shocks??? I am intrigued how this would help?? After reading martins blog my ears are open.
the kit has the distance from the bottom of the shock body to the top of the ball cup at 12 to12 1/2 mm. Martin Hofer's setup has the distance at 10.5 mm. The only way to get to the shorter distance is to cut the shock shaft (on the threaded end) 3 mm. I cut mine with a dremel tool. works great.
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