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Old 07-08-2013, 04:17 PM   #886
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John.C, in my opinion my Mi5 seems to have way more steering than my Awesomatix had. The car seems to have a boat load of mechanical grip, which for parking lot racing never hurts. The true test will be on high bite carpet I hope the car doesn't have traction roll issues...
I have always found it is a lot easier to subtract grip, then to add it... you should be able to lock down the Mi5 no problem with heavier suspension, top-deck stiffener, higher roll center, thicker sways, etc.
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:55 PM   #887
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Will the rear gear diff from this car fit in the mi4cxl?
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:24 AM   #888
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Hey All,

I finally got my first run with the car. Was great until i got interference and slammed left into a board. Im using a 2.4gig modded KO Vantage stick radio. Worked fine for so many but causes me grief dammit.

Broke both front alloy screws on front left arm and rear hub. Steering rack popped out and made things look a mess. Was a big big hit and got away with very little damage. Impressed

I just ran the kit setup but as per suggestions here will move towards Hofers setup. Keen to keep 3 degree rear toe with 13.5. As an old timer coming back its just safer

I ran that LTR Protoform 'toxic avenger (AdrianM will know)' shell and want to go back to Mazda 6.

I know very little about brushless but can anyone suggest a gear ratio for medium sized asphalt? It seemed about right but these motors are tricky. It was coming off only slightly warm. Im guessing i need to go from 0 to 10 degree timing too!
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:29 AM   #889
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I had a chance to inspect my assembled version of the Mi5 last night. As expected the CF pieces were not sanded down. I'll need to uninstall these pieces and sand them down. Additionally, there were 2 faulty parts that I'll need to resolve with Schumacher. The rest of the kit was assembled flawlessly, the gear diff and the shocks are very smooth with no sign of leakage. I've noticed right away that I'll need to do the set screw mod on the front c-hub and rear upright to remove the play/slop.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:48 AM   #890
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
I had a chance to inspect my assembled version of the Mi5 last night. As expected the CF pieces were not sanded down. I'll need to uninstall these pieces and sand them down. Additionally, there were 2 faulty parts that I'll need to resolve with Schumacher. The rest of the kit was assembled flawlessly, the gear diff and the shocks are very smooth with no sign of leakage. I've noticed right away that I'll need to do the set screw mod on the front c-hub and rear upright to remove the play/slop.
The only part that should be sanded down and sealed with CA is the lower chassis. I sealed the edged of my top decks and shock towers just for looks. I didn't sand them.

The arms should not be touched. Sanding and/or CA'ing them may alter how they flex.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:12 AM   #891
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Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
John.C, in my opinion my Mi5 seems to have way more steering than my Awesomatix had. The car seems to have a boat load of mechanical grip, which for parking lot racing never hurts. The true test will be on high bite carpet I hope the car doesn't have traction roll issues...
I'm with you on the .. I would be surprise they came out with stiffer and thicker top deck or bottom for carpet...
we are know the A700 never traction roll in most cases...
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:45 AM   #892
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The only part that should be sanded down and sealed with CA is the lower chassis. I sealed the edged of my top decks and shock towers just for looks. I didn't sand them.

The arms should not be touched. Sanding and/or CA'ing them may alter how they flex.
I stopped sealing the lower deck on all my cars for the following reasons.

1. I'm just not confident in my ability to apply an even coat of CA around the edges of the lower deck to ensure even flex.
2. I have no way of testing and comparing the flex pre and post CA application. There's no way to tell if I've maintained the original flex characteristics of the lower deck post the CA application.
3. I don't race in the rain.

I do smooth out the edges on all the CF pieces with high grit sand paper. It doesn't alter the fitment, shape, or the integrity of the pieces in any way. It simply takes away the sharpness of the edges.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:49 AM   #893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
The only part that should be sanded down and sealed with CA is the lower chassis. I sealed the edged of my top decks and shock towers just for looks. I didn't sand them.

The arms should not be touched. Sanding and/or CA'ing them may alter how they flex.
IMHO...I DO NOT do any of this CA'ing anymore. Years ago, my cars were beautifully done. With this car, especially the top deck...nope. If we are worried about the flex characteristics of the arms....comparatively the top deck pieces are noodles. Sealing those pieces definitely affects the flex'ation of them. To what extent....I can't say. Breaking the sharpness of the edges and sanding with 500/600grit is all I do.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:58 PM   #894
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Couldn't decide what spares to order!
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:49 AM   #895
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
Will the rear gear diff from this car fit in the mi4cxl?
No, the pulley offset is wrong.

The Mi4 series rear diff will fit in the front of an Mi5 though. I just got one and some 2.5M cSt goop to try out.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:37 AM   #896
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I am posting my setup for the Mi5 after some recent high grip carpet testing.

My starting point is Martin's base setup. I intentionally re-ran and sauced my Jaco Blues for too long in order to replicate extreme traction conditions. My car was locked in like it was on foam tires. This made it slow and lacking in steering and rotation.

2.0 neg front camber and a 2mm spacer under the ball stud on top of the front hub gave me a ton of turn in steering. Leaning in the shocks made it more mellow and smooth.

The rear was not rotating at all. Reducing rear camber to 1.5 helped, so did leaning in the shocks. Raising the lower arms with 1mm spacers (instead of .5mm spacers) and taking the 1mm spacer out from the top of the rear hub plates maintained the rear suspension geometry except for the higher roll center. All of this made the car rotate a bit more. If I were racing on new lightly sauced tires at this level of traction I would probably want to switch to the 2.0 deg rear toe arms.

I am going to run some new Jaco blues with my setup tonight. I expect it to be faster and a bit too loose but this is very easy to fix with 2.0 to 2.25 deg rear camber and a more stood up rear shock position.

Sorry for the crappy PDF. The normal file it too big for rctech to upload.
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File Type: pdf Mi5 Carpet Testing.pdf (147.7 KB, 183 views)
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:30 PM   #897
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I am going to run some new Jaco blues with my setup tonight. I expect it to be faster and a bit too loose but this is very easy to fix with 2.0 to 2.25 deg rear camber and a more stood up rear shock position.

Sorry for the crappy PDF. The normal file it too big for rctech to upload.
Hi. I just wanted to know how standing up rear shock helps reduce slipping on the rear if I understood what you were saying. Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:15 AM   #898
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Hi. I just wanted to know how standing up rear shock helps reduce slipping on the rear if I understood what you were saying. Thanks.
A more stood up rear shock give more rear traction and less rotation in the turns.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:15 AM   #899
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Hi. I just wanted to know how standing up rear shock helps reduce slipping on the rear if I understood what you were saying. Thanks.
A more stood up rear shock gives more rear traction and less rotation in the turns.
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:01 AM   #900
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Smile suspension arm height ?

Hi all I'm going to be running on Tarmac (aldershot UK) what's the best height for the arm spacers? 1 mm or 1/2 mm , them manual says 1 mm but most set up show 1/2 mm what's best and what's the difference? Many thanks for any help
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