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Old 06-23-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Howdy_beecha
The kit knuckles had a slight chamfer the spare parts we recieved have a much larger chamfer.
Instead of longer screws, you might be able to remove material from the knuckle, effectively cut it flush and get rid of the chamfer.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by silvalis
Anyone running a shorty + esc behind shorty layout? I thinking about doing it, but rough measurements have L/R balance is good, F/R balance is good (rear bias) but corner weights are out by 30-40g FL & RR.

Total weight is 1342 (aus rules is 1380, unless im reading these rules wrong) so i can just pop a few weights around the chassis and get corner weights closer to even (but not quite)

Probably not worth worrying about?
I started using a shorty pack in my car. it is well worth using it. I had the owner of Nor-Cal (Erick Vasutin) drive my car today, he said it was the best schumacher he ever drove, very fast and very easy to drive. I also had other top drivers drive it, they all said the same thing. more stering and fast turn in.

I placed the speed controller behind the battery. I have to remove them to change a pinion, but its ok...
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:40 AM
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Ran in my ROAR Regionals (4) this weekend. I got 7th in the B-Main but I'm happy since the A-Main was 75% of the guys in the Nats A-Main, it was my first time on asphalt in 10 years and I didn't figure out I was way under geared until the main.

My Mi5 was phenomenal. The track was very hot and traction was med-high. I ran Martin Hofer's setup with 3 changes. Schumacher Green front springs, Blue rear springs, 1.3mm rear sway bar and AE 45wt (575 cSt) all around. It was very hot and the car was too floaty, slow to change direction with the lighter oil. I went stiffer in the rear (White to Blue) as the chassis was touching down in the rear and I wanted to push the balance forward a bit. I would like to try a softer front swaybar or softer front springs and a gear diff in front with 2.5M goop next time. The car maintained remarkable levels of on and off power steering.

For those of you that are having issues with the lower hub threads I ran my m4 grub screw right through the hole and put a little (less than a drop) of medium CA on an allen key and smeared it on the threads before threading in the king pin. I looked up Locktite for plastic and learned it is just CA. I had a few crashes but the kingpins stayed rock solid all weekend. Actually, I had ZERO mechanical issues all weekend.

In practice before I made all of the changes (it was even better after) the 13.5 Nats Champ took a few laps with my car and turned the fastest lap in the 17.5 class. The car is definitely there...I just need to drive it.

Last edited by AdrianM; 06-24-2013 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:55 AM
  #739  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
No need to speculate and spread misinformation, just try it. Works 100% perfectly fine. No offense intended.
No offense taken but to be clear I am certainly not speculating or misinforming. Schumacher UK says the Mi5 rear diff will not work in the front. They won't say something will work unless it is PERFECT. In this case, yes it fits, the belt will be a little cock-eyed it will work but its NOT PERFECT.

The Spec-R diff can leak a little when used in the rear and it may wear a little fast but, in front, filled with 1M or 2.5M sludge it will not leak or wear since it wont really turn. It will allow the belt alignment to be PERFECT in front.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Ran in my ROAR Regionals (4) this weekend. I got 7th in the B-Main but I'm happy since the A-Main was 75% of the guys in the Nats A-Main, it was my first time on asphalt in 10 years and I didn't figure out I was way under geared until the main.

My Mi5 was phenomenal. The track was very hot and traction was med-high. I ran Martin Hofer's setup with 3 changes. Schumacher Green front springs, Blue rear springs, 1.3mm rear sway bar and AE 45wt (575 cSt) all around. It was very hot and the car was too floaty, slow to change direction with the lighter oil. I went stiffer in the rear (White to Blue) as the chassis was touching down in the rear and I wanted to push the balance forward a bit. I would like to try a softer front swaybar or softer front springs and a gear diff in front with 2.5M goop next time. The car maintained remarkable levels of on and off power steering.

For those of you that are having issues with the lower hub threads I ran my m4 grub screw right through the hole and put a little (less than a drop) of medium CA on an allen key and smeared it on the threads before threading in the king pin. I looked up Locktite for plastic and learned it is just CA. I had a few crashes but the kingpins stayed rock solid all weekend. Actually, I had ZERO mechanical issues all weekend.

In practice before I made all of the changes (it was even better after) the 13.5 Nats Champ took a few laps with my car and turned the fastest lap in the 17.5 class. The car is definitely there...I just need to drive it.
Adrian, are you going to attend the IIC in Vegas? I am going to try and go. I got the hard part done, permission from the better half.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop
Adrian, are you going to attend the IIC in Vegas? I am going to try and go. I got the hard part done, permission from the better half.
No, I won't be able to go. My next big race will be the 2014 Snowbirds. I will also try for the 2014 Carpet and Asphalt Nats.

Last edited by AdrianM; 06-24-2013 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:42 AM
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For those of you who has converted to mid motor and race on carpet, have you been changing setup or running standard carpet setup?
Finaly got round to converting, re wired and trying the tekin rs gen2 for the first time on friday. In boosted 13.5.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:50 AM
  #743  
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this is a pic of my shorty pack installed. the car has great balance, and changes direction very quickly.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:56 AM
  #744  
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I Have a Shumacher Mi1 Original for Sale if anyone is interested

Call/text 561-714-6460

or

Email: [email protected]
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by nmsraider
For those of you who has converted to mid motor and race on carpet, have you been changing setup or running standard carpet setup?
Finaly got round to converting, re wired and trying the tekin rs gen2 for the first time on friday. In boosted 13.5.
I've been running Hofer's LRP setup in mid motor config to good effect.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:54 PM
  #746  
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Default Servo Saver

Which one are you guys running? I'm guessing the included horn won't be the long term answer.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:14 PM
  #747  
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Nice build review of the Mi5

http://www.rcracingni.co.uk/?p=116211
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood
Which one are you guys running? I'm guessing the included horn won't be the long term answer.
i asume ur talking about the servo horn that comes with the kit, Personally i always prefer plastic over alloy servo horns. The horn as included in the kit gives u the best of both worlds. Its more direct than a servo saver and wont damage ur servo in case of a bad crash. Yes, the horn will break or will be damaged but ur better off spending a few bucks on a plastic horn once in a while than replacing ur servo gears or worse..
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by haywood
Which one are you guys running? I'm guessing the included horn won't be the long term answer.
That horn has been used on Schuey sedans since the first SST 97'. It will not fail.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
That horn has been used on Schuey sedans since the first SST 97'. It will not fail.
Yes it will, but only in a crash, and it saves the servo. Best of both worlds.
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