Schumacher Mi5
#737
Tech Addict
Anyone running a shorty + esc behind shorty layout? I thinking about doing it, but rough measurements have L/R balance is good, F/R balance is good (rear bias) but corner weights are out by 30-40g FL & RR.
Total weight is 1342 (aus rules is 1380, unless im reading these rules wrong) so i can just pop a few weights around the chassis and get corner weights closer to even (but not quite)
Probably not worth worrying about?
Total weight is 1342 (aus rules is 1380, unless im reading these rules wrong) so i can just pop a few weights around the chassis and get corner weights closer to even (but not quite)
Probably not worth worrying about?
I placed the speed controller behind the battery. I have to remove them to change a pinion, but its ok...
#738
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Ran in my ROAR Regionals (4) this weekend. I got 7th in the B-Main but I'm happy since the A-Main was 75% of the guys in the Nats A-Main, it was my first time on asphalt in 10 years and I didn't figure out I was way under geared until the main.
My Mi5 was phenomenal. The track was very hot and traction was med-high. I ran Martin Hofer's setup with 3 changes. Schumacher Green front springs, Blue rear springs, 1.3mm rear sway bar and AE 45wt (575 cSt) all around. It was very hot and the car was too floaty, slow to change direction with the lighter oil. I went stiffer in the rear (White to Blue) as the chassis was touching down in the rear and I wanted to push the balance forward a bit. I would like to try a softer front swaybar or softer front springs and a gear diff in front with 2.5M goop next time. The car maintained remarkable levels of on and off power steering.
For those of you that are having issues with the lower hub threads I ran my m4 grub screw right through the hole and put a little (less than a drop) of medium CA on an allen key and smeared it on the threads before threading in the king pin. I looked up Locktite for plastic and learned it is just CA. I had a few crashes but the kingpins stayed rock solid all weekend. Actually, I had ZERO mechanical issues all weekend.
In practice before I made all of the changes (it was even better after) the 13.5 Nats Champ took a few laps with my car and turned the fastest lap in the 17.5 class. The car is definitely there...I just need to drive it.
My Mi5 was phenomenal. The track was very hot and traction was med-high. I ran Martin Hofer's setup with 3 changes. Schumacher Green front springs, Blue rear springs, 1.3mm rear sway bar and AE 45wt (575 cSt) all around. It was very hot and the car was too floaty, slow to change direction with the lighter oil. I went stiffer in the rear (White to Blue) as the chassis was touching down in the rear and I wanted to push the balance forward a bit. I would like to try a softer front swaybar or softer front springs and a gear diff in front with 2.5M goop next time. The car maintained remarkable levels of on and off power steering.
For those of you that are having issues with the lower hub threads I ran my m4 grub screw right through the hole and put a little (less than a drop) of medium CA on an allen key and smeared it on the threads before threading in the king pin. I looked up Locktite for plastic and learned it is just CA. I had a few crashes but the kingpins stayed rock solid all weekend. Actually, I had ZERO mechanical issues all weekend.
In practice before I made all of the changes (it was even better after) the 13.5 Nats Champ took a few laps with my car and turned the fastest lap in the 17.5 class. The car is definitely there...I just need to drive it.
Last edited by AdrianM; 06-24-2013 at 05:57 AM.
#739
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
The Spec-R diff can leak a little when used in the rear and it may wear a little fast but, in front, filled with 1M or 2.5M sludge it will not leak or wear since it wont really turn. It will allow the belt alignment to be PERFECT in front.
#740
Tech Addict
Ran in my ROAR Regionals (4) this weekend. I got 7th in the B-Main but I'm happy since the A-Main was 75% of the guys in the Nats A-Main, it was my first time on asphalt in 10 years and I didn't figure out I was way under geared until the main.
My Mi5 was phenomenal. The track was very hot and traction was med-high. I ran Martin Hofer's setup with 3 changes. Schumacher Green front springs, Blue rear springs, 1.3mm rear sway bar and AE 45wt (575 cSt) all around. It was very hot and the car was too floaty, slow to change direction with the lighter oil. I went stiffer in the rear (White to Blue) as the chassis was touching down in the rear and I wanted to push the balance forward a bit. I would like to try a softer front swaybar or softer front springs and a gear diff in front with 2.5M goop next time. The car maintained remarkable levels of on and off power steering.
For those of you that are having issues with the lower hub threads I ran my m4 grub screw right through the hole and put a little (less than a drop) of medium CA on an allen key and smeared it on the threads before threading in the king pin. I looked up Locktite for plastic and learned it is just CA. I had a few crashes but the kingpins stayed rock solid all weekend. Actually, I had ZERO mechanical issues all weekend.
In practice before I made all of the changes (it was even better after) the 13.5 Nats Champ took a few laps with my car and turned the fastest lap in the 17.5 class. The car is definitely there...I just need to drive it.
My Mi5 was phenomenal. The track was very hot and traction was med-high. I ran Martin Hofer's setup with 3 changes. Schumacher Green front springs, Blue rear springs, 1.3mm rear sway bar and AE 45wt (575 cSt) all around. It was very hot and the car was too floaty, slow to change direction with the lighter oil. I went stiffer in the rear (White to Blue) as the chassis was touching down in the rear and I wanted to push the balance forward a bit. I would like to try a softer front swaybar or softer front springs and a gear diff in front with 2.5M goop next time. The car maintained remarkable levels of on and off power steering.
For those of you that are having issues with the lower hub threads I ran my m4 grub screw right through the hole and put a little (less than a drop) of medium CA on an allen key and smeared it on the threads before threading in the king pin. I looked up Locktite for plastic and learned it is just CA. I had a few crashes but the kingpins stayed rock solid all weekend. Actually, I had ZERO mechanical issues all weekend.
In practice before I made all of the changes (it was even better after) the 13.5 Nats Champ took a few laps with my car and turned the fastest lap in the 17.5 class. The car is definitely there...I just need to drive it.
#742
Tech Initiate
For those of you who has converted to mid motor and race on carpet, have you been changing setup or running standard carpet setup?
Finaly got round to converting, re wired and trying the tekin rs gen2 for the first time on friday. In boosted 13.5.
Finaly got round to converting, re wired and trying the tekin rs gen2 for the first time on friday. In boosted 13.5.
#743
Tech Addict
this is a pic of my shorty pack installed. the car has great balance, and changes direction very quickly.
#744
I Have a Shumacher Mi1 Original for Sale if anyone is interested
Call/text 561-714-6460
or
Email: [email protected]
Call/text 561-714-6460
or
Email: [email protected]
#745
I've been running Hofer's LRP setup in mid motor config to good effect.
#748
Tech Apprentice
i asume ur talking about the servo horn that comes with the kit, Personally i always prefer plastic over alloy servo horns. The horn as included in the kit gives u the best of both worlds. Its more direct than a servo saver and wont damage ur servo in case of a bad crash. Yes, the horn will break or will be damaged but ur better off spending a few bucks on a plastic horn once in a while than replacing ur servo gears or worse..
#750
Tech Adept