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Old 06-17-2013, 10:48 AM   #676
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Having some durability issues with my turnblocks. The large thread bolts that thread up underneath the caster block seems to be... "not quite great". I can't tell if there aren't enough threads, or if the bolt is a tick too short, the threads are too fine, or if the plastic isn't tough enough, but iv already gone through 3 of these things. (one per race day)

i pre-thread with the grub screw, and only tighten down the bolt till it just BARELY snugs on the lower bearing (as little as I possibly can). But still, after a number of packs, maybe 8 or 10... the bolt will back itself out just a tiny bit... and if I take the bolt out, sure as heck... there are always a couple of threads that come out with it... stripped. It might last one more run before I need to replace it.

Anybody else having this issue? I have almost zero contact with the boards, and these parts are breaking.

Having said that... my turnblock made it through all but the last 4 corners in the main today.. and I was able to finish out in 1st... 1 more lap and it would of been a DNF. Car was brutally good otherwise.
Sounds strange, but have you tried the super glue trick to re-thread the blocks? Basically, take the lower king pin and hub, put a drop of superglue into the hole, then thread in the kingpin. I'd do it off the car so that it doesn't bind up the bearings. You should then be able to pull out the pin with a new thread, and will reinforce ones in there... might help get you by
I've done this on some A-arms that had lost some threads, and still going strong..

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Old 06-17-2013, 12:29 PM   #677
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I can't say enough good things about the design and build of this chassis - a very enjoyable kit to build and it looks freak'n awesome when you are done. I should have it on the track this Wednesday. Btw, I firmly tighted the kingpin bolts (without coming close to stripping anything) in the believe that some of the issues have been related to them loosening under racing conditions which then casues the damage to the threads. Note that the bearings can not bind no matter how much you tighten the kingpin bolt. We'll see how it goes.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:40 PM   #678
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I can't say enough good things about the design and build of this chassis - a very enjoyable kit to build and it looks freak'n awesome when you are done. I should have it on the track this Wednesday. Btw, I firmly tighted the kingpin bolts (without coming close to stripping anything) in the believe that some of the issues have been related to them loosening under racing conditions which then casues the damage to the threads. Note that the bearings can not bind no matter how much you tighten the kingpin bolt. We'll see how it goes.
hope you bought some spares
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:42 PM   #679
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:08 PM   #680
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I am not sure if this will help, but did you run the grub screw all the way in? I only put it in enough for the real screws to grab and mine haven't loosened after 600+ laps. It might be a slight mismatch between the grub screw threads and real screws causing the issue.
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:33 PM   #681
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I receive my kit today and the ammendment sheet have a advice for this issue. "pre-tap the hub carrier with the M4 grub screw until the grub screw is flush with the moulding"

Hope this help.

Pd. I made a mistake and order 2 kits and only will take one.Any one interested in the other kit send PM I will make a great deal.
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:42 PM   #682
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I haven't run the car yet, but I can't believe how much chassis flex it has.
And that's with the extra top deck spacer.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:38 AM   #683
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I am not sure if this will help, but did you run the grub screw all the way in? I only put it in enough for the real screws to grab and mine haven't loosened after 600+ laps. It might be a slight mismatch between the grub screw threads and real screws causing the issue.
Iv been threading mine in pretty far, like the manual suggests. I think on my next one here , I will try your recommendation. Pre-thread just far enough to make sure the bolt has proper alignment, and then let the bolt do the rest.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:26 AM   #684
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I also followed the amendment and did not run the set screw all the way through.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:20 AM   #685
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I have heard ppl use longer bolts for a king pin as the standard only goes in 3 mm into the hub when there is 5 mm till the other side and still the king pin will just miss the driveshaft

The idea is that its more tread to pull out so it should be stronger in a crash
So get some longer screws and get one the doesn't hit the driveshaft ( even if u cut one to size)
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:15 AM   #686
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Adrian, Glad to see that you are back. I have always appreciated your help and insight and have missed that. You (and Paul) are both great people.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:40 PM   #687
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M4 helicoil ordered. Should resolve the issue
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:46 PM   #688
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M4 helicoil ordered. Should resolve the issue
Interested to know how it works out for you. Keep us updated!
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:59 PM   #689
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M4 helicoil ordered. Should resolve the issue
helicoil will works as for repair .but the outside of the helicoil thread is course and plus you will be taking more material out of the hub for the helicoil to screw in ,make sure you glues the helicoil in ,so it will not come loose

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Old 06-18-2013, 02:14 PM   #690
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helicoil will works as for repair .but the outside of the helicoil thread is course and plus you will be taking more material out of the hub for the helicoil to screw in ,make sure you glues the helicoil in ,so it will not come loose
The screw might be more likely to vibrate loose from a helicoil, too.

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