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Old 06-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #616
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hello , got my mi5 last week .found out i am missing of two parts ...ok worng item ..
btw i like to ask are u guys using 100%rebound on the tarmac ?
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:00 AM   #617
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hello , got my mi5 last week .found out i am missing of two parts ...ok worng item ..
btw i like to ask are u guys using 100%rebound on the tarmac ?
Personally i never run more or less than 2mm rebound on shocks. And i dont think u will notice any difference between 0 or 2mm rebound, but i find it easier to build them consistant that way.

To bad ur missing parts. Hope they will sort u out soon!
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:05 AM   #618
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I just got my Mi5 last night and haven't started the build yet, but I'm wondering about the use of "alloy" screws in the front pivot balls. The amended instructions say that steel screws could damage the chassis in a crash but wouldn't the "alloy" screws snap off and get stuck in the pivot ball fairly easilly?
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:10 AM   #619
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I just got my Mi5 last night and haven't started the build yet, but I'm wondering about the use of "alloy" screws in the front pivot balls. The amended instructions say that steel screws could damage the chassis in a crash but wouldn't the "alloy" screws snap off and get stuck in the pivot ball fairly easilly?
The idea of the screws is to give before any damage is done to chassis,been running the car for 3 weeks now in uk,we have had no problems,with them
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:10 AM   #620
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... apparently it's safe to use steel screws in the rear and not recommended to use "alloy" because they could break. Can't have it both way guys?
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:15 AM   #621
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
I just got my Mi5 last night and haven't started the build yet, but I'm wondering about the use of "alloy" screws in the front pivot balls. The amended instructions say that steel screws could damage the chassis in a crash but wouldn't the "alloy" screws snap off and get stuck in the pivot ball fairly easilly?
No they come out pretty easily, just twist with some needle-nose pliers until you can twist by hand. I've snapped two of them and they work great.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:18 AM   #622
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... apparently it's safe to use steel screws in the rear and not recommended to use "alloy" because they could break. Can't have it both way guys?
The thinking is that you are much more likely to have a really hard hit on the front wheels. Something like catching an edge on the track barrier square on the wheel and stopping immediately. The rear wheels will get glancing blows and hit while tumbling, far less energy.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:23 AM   #623
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All right, thanks guys, I will follow the instuctions.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:24 PM   #624
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Link to better quality aluminum screws? Anyone have a link to the hpi springs for carpet?
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:57 PM   #625
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Link to better quality aluminum screws?
The Schumacher alloy screws are very good quality, just not very pretty. if you want pretty you will need to get color anodized screws.

I have used these and they are very good. The plain ones look just like the Schumacher screws, the anodized ones are nicer looking.

http://www.4chobbysupply.com/servlet...ric/Categories

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Anyone have a link to the hpi springs for carpet?
The new Schumacher spring range is the same as the HPI spring range (size, steel alloy, winding, coil count, frequency, finish, etc...). Schu Green = HPI silver. You can go harder and softer from there.
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:58 PM   #626
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Sorry but all Fantom's D3.5's and Revtech's are OEM Trinity motors. Those motors are manufactured exclusively for Trinity. Fantom may be getting direct ships from the manufacturer instead of cartons making a stop at Trinity in Sanford, FL but they write the check to Trinity.
Ok, so what does that have to do with the post I was replying to? the guy claimed that tinity picks all the best motors out of their shipments, and sells the bottom of the picks to the OEMs. Are you saying that's correct? I never said that Fantom didn't pay trinity.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:02 PM   #627
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The thinking is that you are much more likely to have a really hard hit on the front wheels. Something like catching an edge on the track barrier square on the wheel and stopping immediately. The rear wheels will get glancing blows and hit while tumbling, far less energy.
The arms are designed to run into the bulkheads during side hits and stop before they move far enough to bend or break a screw.

As you said the fronts get glancing blows and the alloy screws function as a fuse to prevent chassis damage.

If someone's front screws are breaking easy chances are they are over tightening them and introducing stress cracks. Make them snug, they wont loosen and they will take a substantial hit before breaking.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:17 PM   #628
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Ok, so what does that have to do with the post I was replying to? the guy claimed that tinity picks all the best motors out of their shipments, and sells the bottom of the picks to the OEMs. Are you saying that's correct? I never said that Fantom didn't pay trinity.
I do not think that is true at all. Trinity gets pallets of motors in, takes cases off the pallets for their inventory and ships the rest of the sealed cases out to EA, Xpress, OHP, Putnam, Fantom, etc...

They all then pop them open do what they do and sell them. Trinity sells their top 5%, Fantom calls them Factory motors, EA, OHP and Putnam just sell them as the same...because...there really isn't much difference between the top 5% and the top 25%, 50% or 75%...
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:23 PM   #629
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The arms are designed to run into the bulkheads during side hits and stop before they move far enough to bend or break a screw.

As you said the fronts get glancing blows and the alloy screws function as a fuse to prevent chassis damage.

If someone's front screws are breaking easy chances are they are over tightening them and introducing stress cracks. Make them snug, they wont loosen and they will take a substantial hit before breaking.
Thank you.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:27 PM   #630
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So far so good...

Built up well. On track performance is a work in progress. (running mod on large outdoor asphalt tracks - low -med gip with mega bumps)

Started with Hofer starting setup....will report more soon.
  • No breakages (after some decent crashes)
  • Some play in front castor block (no more than other cars) - taken out with 0.1mm shim
  • Reshimmed diff and spool with 0.1mm each side instead of supplied shims
  • added purple bling parts
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Schumacher Mi5-mi5-ss.jpg  
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