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Old 06-05-2013, 09:12 PM   #541
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Just checking. Is it normal for front wheel hub bearings to sit out by about 1mm? Looks odd but I guess there is less chance for compression on the bearing
Yes, it's been like that since the Mi2. The hub is narrow so wheels dont rub. It allows you to run the really narrow wheel hexes with wheels that have a deep hex socket.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:25 PM   #542
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Just checking. Is it normal for front wheel hub bearings to sit out by about 1mm? Looks odd but I guess there is less chance for compression on the bearing
That's normal Chris - the way it's designed.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:28 PM   #543
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ha thanks Adrian. Think the Mi2 was my last car damn!
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:23 AM   #544
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Hey Adrian are you going to do a step by step build on here like with the MI3? that was great write up
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:58 AM   #545
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Hey Adrian are you going to do a step by step build on here like with the MI3? that was great write up
I'll take some pics during assembly and if I run into anything worth clearing up i'll post it.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:01 AM   #546
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This car looks great. I'm still trying to figure out why the plates for the camber links need to be changed out? Multiple holes couldn't be drilled in some sort of offset pattern into one piece?
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:53 AM   #547
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This car looks great. I'm still trying to figure out why the plates for the camber links need to be changed out? Multiple holes couldn't be drilled in some sort of offset pattern into one piece?
2 - 3mm holes spaced 1mm apart would be one oval hole. There would be no way to ensure the pivot ball location while tightening it. I think off setting the holes would yeild weird camber link angles and more change that one would want to make. Many of the camber mount options on other cars are not very useful.

The 4 dink plate makes the upper camber links longer for less camber change and more stability. This is best for asphalt and low grip carpet.

The 3 dink plate makes for a shorter link with more camber change and more aggressive handling. This is good for carpet and high grip conditions where the car can be pushed harder before it breaks away.

I run on carpet mostly but I will start with the kit carpet setup that calls for the 4 dink plate.
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:53 PM   #548
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The 4 dink plate makes the upper camber links longer for less camber change and more stability. This is best for asphalt and low grip carpet.

The 3 dink plate makes for a shorter link with more camber change and more aggressive handling. This is good for carpet and high grip conditions where the car can be pushed harder before it breaks away.
Huh. That's the opposite of my very tenuous understanding of camber links. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

I always thought you want the longer camber links on carpet to calm the car down, and limit the peak grip (through camber loss) to avoid traction roll. And you'd use shorter camber links in lower grip to get more bite and response. That seemed to be the trend in the team driver setups for the Mi4, anyway.

I have much to try.

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Old 06-06-2013, 01:08 PM   #549
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Huh. That's the opposite of my very tenuous understanding of camber links. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

I always thought you want the longer camber links on carpet to calm the car down, and limit the peak grip (through camber loss) to avoid traction roll. And you'd use shorter camber links in lower grip to get more bite and response. That seemed to be the trend in the team driver setups for the Mi4, anyway.

I have much to try.

-Mike
Shorter links just seem to make cars faster and more responsive on carpet.
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Old 06-06-2013, 01:55 PM   #550
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In addition to response
Shorter links raise the roll center, for less chassis roll, and minimize grip roll
Sounds about right for hi grip tracks I think ?
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:14 PM   #551
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In addition to response
Shorter links raise the roll center, for less chassis roll, and minimize grip roll
Sounds about right for hi grip tracks I think ?
If the pivot points are on the original line of the link there is no roll center change. The shorter link would only change the rate at which camber is gained. Shorter links give faster camber gain without altering roll center.

You can try this out here: http://www.racingaspirations.com/sus...try-calculator

On carpet where grip is usually higher than on asphalt and where corners are sharper, faster camber gain can be better.

Like anything, this is a setting that has to be tested. It my not always be better.
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:27 PM   #552
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Now thats a fun tool
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:43 PM   #553
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I remembered to take photos of my build after step 5 or so. At some point I will put together a slide show or something for it. The only I encountered was pulling the threads out of one of the aluminum nuts in the pieces that attach the upper plates to the shock towers. I had a purple one here so I built it with that and will put a proper black one on when done. My build went quick becuase I had prepainted a pair of bodies and the electrics were from another TC so nothing more than new servo tape was needed. Of course, the mid motor kit is on the way so I'll probably tear everything apart and paint the edges of the chassis.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:05 PM   #554
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Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
This car looks great. I'm still trying to figure out why the plates for the camber links need to be changed out? Multiple holes couldn't be drilled in some sort of offset pattern into one piece?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
2 - 3mm holes spaced 1mm apart would be one oval hole. There would be no way to ensure the pivot ball location while tightening it. I think off setting the holes would yeild weird camber link angles and more change that one would want to make. Many of the camber mount options on other cars are not very useful.

The 4 dink plate makes the upper camber links longer for less camber change and more stability. This is best for asphalt and low grip carpet.

The 3 dink plate makes for a shorter link with more camber change and more aggressive handling. This is good for carpet and high grip conditions where the car can be pushed harder before it breaks away.

I run on carpet mostly but I will start with the kit carpet setup that calls for the 4 dink plate.
I was thinking it was just because the plate is mounted on an angle. Moving the link mount from hole to hole would result in a height change as well as a link lenth change?
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:18 AM   #555
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Some pics from my build

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1&l=44b8e8c5f9
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