R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-28-2013, 12:50 PM   #361
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 170
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I just finished doing all the math around running a shorty pack and the ESC on the right side of the car last night, and the math just doesn't pan out. (at least with the weight of my electronics) I figured I would have to add ~60 grams of weight to make minimum weight running a shorty. And while that does give you the opportunity to get to dead minimum weight, and at the appropriate corners, I would much rather have 2500 more mah, and be 40 grams over.

(100 gram difference between full and shorty. 60 under with shorty, 40 over with full)

It has always been my school of thought to do your best to reach weight using higher mah, than stick-on-weights. The voltage drop advantage of using a higher mah better will be beneficial in the later minutes of a race, in a spec class. YMMV

-CPT
I find the car more balanced and faster in the corners
And u can weight up the corners better

I started with 5000 25c lipo's (bk in 2009) and was just as fast as the
Boys using 5400 40-50c , so battery size isn't everything and these are
4600 80c so I am only loosing 400 and I only pull 1300-1600 out of my lipo's
an 2700 if I ran 13.5t boosted so they are fine for 17.5-13.5t if ur running mod motors then I would run full fat lipo's

I would like to add I was running 6000 70c lipo's before and found these are just as good but 100g lighter so I have lowered my lap times by taking weight away
Car corners better
__________________
if you have control your not pushing hard
all or nothing
tcboy1983 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 01:35 PM   #362
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by machocave View Post
Thanks for the info
I got the internal ratio incorrect. I had suggested a 66t 48dp spur for 17.5 blinky but a 70T would be better.

Every car has a min/max total tooth count. For the Mi5 the Min in 48dp that is 100 total teeth or 66 spur + 34 pinion = 100. That gives you a 3.49 final drive ( (66/34) x 1.8 = 3.49 ) which is too tall for small tracks.


You want to be in the 4.0 to 3.6 range for a small track in 17.5 Blinky. That is a 70T spur with 43-48t pinions.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 01:52 PM   #363
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 170
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
I got the internal ratio incorrect. I had suggested a 66t 48dp spur for 17.5 blinky but a 70T would be better.

Every car has a min/max total tooth count. For the Mi5 the Min in 48dp that is 100 total teeth or 66 spur + 34 pinion = 100. That gives you a 3.49 final drive ( (66/34) x 1.8 = 3.49 ) which is too tall for small tracks.


You want to be in the 4.0 to 3.6 range for a small track in 17.5 Blinky. That is a 70T spur with 43-48t pinions.
Hi I am going to run about 3.21-3.15 at aldershot track which is a 70t spur biggest pinion in the manual says for a 70t spur is a 39 pinion giving u 3.21 but I bet u could run a 40t pinion to give u a 3.15
__________________
if you have control your not pushing hard
all or nothing
tcboy1983 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 02:02 PM   #364
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

The 4.0-3.6 FDR recommendation was for a 25mx12m (80'x40') indoor carpet track.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 02:05 PM   #365
Tech Adept
 
machocave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 179
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
I got the internal ratio incorrect. I had suggested a 66t 48dp spur for 17.5 blinky but a 70T would be better.

Every car has a min/max total tooth count. For the Mi5 the Min in 48dp that is 100 total teeth or 66 spur + 34 pinion = 100. That gives you a 3.49 final drive ( (66/34) x 1.8 = 3.49 ) which is too tall for small tracks.


You want to be in the 4.0 to 3.6 range for a small track in 17.5 Blinky. That is a 70T spur with 43-48t pinions.
Thanks for the helpful update I can't wait to start building My kit should be arriving sometime today
__________________
MachoCave.TV
Because Everything Matters!
https://www.facebook.com/machocave
machocave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #366
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 170
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
The 4.0-3.6 FDR recommendation was for a 25mx12m (80'x40') indoor carpet track.


If you want a fdr of 4-3.6 u want 70 t spur with pinion 31-35t not 43-48t
__________________
if you have control your not pushing hard
all or nothing
tcboy1983 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 04:35 PM   #367
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 49
Default

Quote:
That looks good ...whats your procedure ...just sanding and painting....what type of paint?
I just sanded the chassis edges with dermal then used CA glue (only on chassis) wet and dried the CA with 800 paper, paint is Ford Polar pearl white with a hardener in, thinners to first light coat, again 800 paper then final thicker coat using small ass brush. essential tools include beer, and lots of it to steady your hand, cloth and blade to remove paint when too much beer has been consumed. Then when paint is fully dry 1500 to remove any imperfections 2000 to finish.

Quote:
That looks striking Scott but what's with the purple wheel hexes. Surly they should be black or in your case white.
Yeah gonna have to get some bits sorted white turn buckles, that can be your mission Paul, find me some.

Quote:
It looks like something out of Tron, the movie... does it glow in the dark?
Had to look that up never heard of it before, Kind of wish I had picked another colour now as white hop up bit are hard to come by.
nmsraider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 05:50 PM   #368
Tech Master
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kagoshima, Japan
Posts: 1,919
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default Just a little tidbit of information

For those who are running 17.5's or 13.5's on shorter tracks. If you want to achieve maximum rip out down the straights, infield and corners, adjust your FDR as discussed by Adrian M, and also adjust your radio settings with a more positive curve band. If you haven't done this already, you will see a huge difference in motor performance. Trust me .

I really wish I could get my hands on one of these chassis'.
EDWARD2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 06:00 PM   #369
Tech Master
 
theatriks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,619
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
For those who are running 17.5's or 13.5's on shorter tracks. If you want to achieve maximum rip out down the straights, infield and corners, adjust your FDR as discussed by Adrian M, and also adjust your radio settings with a more positive curve band. If you haven't done this already, you will see a huge difference in motor performance. Trust me .

I really wish I could get my hands on one of these chassis'.
What settings on the radio are you referring too ?
__________________
Mod Mod Mod...I love Mod.....and scotch!
theatriks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 06:18 PM   #370
Tech Master
 
EDWARD2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kagoshima, Japan
Posts: 1,919
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Throttle curve. Your stock radio settings will have a linear throttle curve which should be (0). You want a more positive curve set it to ( +40 or +50). Check your manual and get familiar with it
EDWARD2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 09:12 PM   #371
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,065
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Changing your throttle curve doesn't affect your motor's performance. It only changes the relative throttle position in relation to trigger position.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 09:22 PM   #372
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcboy1983 View Post
If you want a fdr of 4-3.6 u want 70 t spur with pinion 31-35t not 43-48t
Sorry, I think I read the 43-48 off the 64dp chart
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 10:09 PM   #373
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Dordon , England
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
hey racer, I am also running the 17.5 non-boosted class. Did you use Martin Hofers setup, or did you run something different. would you mind sharing your setup please?

Thank you,

Rich
As per build in the manual with the following changes....

3 groove camber link plates front and rear
2 degree camber front and rear
Shock oil 35wt front 25wt rear
Gear diff 100wt shock oil
Double jointed front drive shafts
Sorex 32 control tyres
Mazda speed 6 shell

Stafford is a low grip track that does wear tyres quickly, hope that gives you a few things to try.
__________________
Xray X1 "16" driven by an idiot, me
weekendracer_uk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 10:17 PM   #374
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 515
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk View Post
As per build in the manual with the following changes....

3 groove camber link plates front and rear
2 degree camber front and rear
Shock oil 35wt front 25wt rear
Gear diff 100wt shock oil
Double jointed front drive shafts
Sorex 32 control tyres
Mazda speed 6 shell

Stafford is a low grip track that does wear tyres quickly, hope that gives you a few things to try.
thank you, I will give that a try
gdcopbdcop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 11:10 PM   #375
Tech Fanatic
 
cyba888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Taipei
Posts: 988
Default

Any T4 owners also have the mi5?
__________________
2014 and 2015 BD7 Black Series, Yokomo RPX ESC- Yokomo 4.5T Motor
Yokomo B-MAX4 III Factory Team Kit, Muchmore ESC- LRP 6.5T Motor
Mugen MBX7R Eco- 2200 KV Motor
Futaba 4PX
cyba888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:12 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0