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Old 10-25-2014, 05:15 AM   #2431
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Hey Paul!

We will double check that for you and post back in a day or so...

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Hi guys. I'm thinking of going mid motor. I have the conversion for the evo, but when I built it up the motor seems to far foreword and very close to the lo-profile servo.
My question is will the belts still fit with the blinky motor mount in mid to get the motor back, and how far back do's it put the motor compered to the normal motor mount.
this may be one for .discountRCstore.
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Old 10-25-2014, 06:42 AM   #2432
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Hey Paul!

We will double check that for you and post back in a day or so...

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Cheers mate.
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Old 10-26-2014, 02:15 PM   #2433
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Originally Posted by big paul View Post
Hi guys. I'm thinking of going mid motor. I have the conversion for the evo, but when I built it up, the motor seems to far foreword and very close to the lo-profile servo.
My question is will the belts still fit with the blinky motor mount in mid to get the motor back, and how far back do's it put the motor compered to the normal motor mount.
this may be one for .discountRCstore.

Ok... We don't have anyone running the mid motor at the moment, however, measuring the stock mount against the blinky mount, the lay shaft looks to mount in the exact same place on both mounts. The difference being solely in the position that the motor itself mounts - so the the mm belts should work fine. Measuring further, we get ~20mm difference (on center) for the motor position itself, moving it ~20mm rearward - depending of course on the exact ratio you'll be running. hopefully this helps and gets you going in the right direction ...


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Old 10-26-2014, 03:38 PM   #2434
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is anybody having alot of play in the castor block on the evo or uneven toe on the rear arms? i am considering a evo but want to know if it has these issues
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:01 PM   #2435
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is anybody having alot of play in the castor block on the evo or uneven toe on the rear arms? i am considering a evo but want to know if it has these issues
Most all cars will have some play.. They've done a good job with the EVO, much better than the original 5. The F/R hubs utilize set screws on the pins to essentially lock them in place. There is some minimal play which is acceptable in most situations. The rear toe is determined by the arms, which are now made identically - meaning, the same arm can be used on either side. Ours measure exactly right using our Hudy setup station.. Results could very on the station used but will very likely measure the same left to right.. Hope it helps ...


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Old 10-27-2014, 07:49 AM   #2436
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Ok... We don't have anyone running the mid motor at the moment, however, measuring the stock mount against the blinky mount, the lay shaft looks to mount in the exact same place on both mounts. The difference being solely in the position that the motor itself mounts - so the the mm belts should work fine. Measuring further, we get ~20mm difference (on center) for the motor position itself, moving it ~20mm rearward - depending of course on the exact ratio you'll be running. hopefully this helps and gets you going in the right direction ...


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Thank's that is very good info.
Cheers Paul
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:28 PM   #2437
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Originally Posted by DiscountRCStore View Post
Most all cars will have some play.. They've done a good job with the EVO, much better than the original 5. The F/R hubs utilize set screws on the pins to essentially lock them in place. There is some minimal play which is acceptable in most situations. The rear toe is determined by the arms, which are now made identically - meaning, the same arm can be used on either side. Ours measure exactly right using our Hudy setup station.. Results could very on the station used but will very likely measure the same left to right.. Hope it helps ...


... p
thanks i was mostly worried about the bearing castor block. i have not seen a evo in person but i have seen the old mi5 and it had massive amounts of play in that bearing.

wondering how the mid motor setup works on tight carpet track
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Old 10-27-2014, 06:35 PM   #2438
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thanks i was mostly worried about the bearing castor block. i have not seen a evo in person but i have seen the old mi5 and it had massive amounts of play in that bearing.

wondering how the mid motor setup works on tight carpet track
The castor block arrangement is still the same.. You would need to pay attention to that area... We did test using some bushings early on with good results on the 5... the mid motor can be good on small tight tracks; stays quite flat and carries good corner speed due to the weight being largely centered...


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Old 10-28-2014, 10:24 AM   #2439
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thanks i was mostly worried about the bearing castor block. i have not seen a evo in person but i have seen the old mi5 and it had massive amounts of play in that bearing.

wondering how the mid motor setup works on tight carpet track
Things you can do to minimise the play,
Get a Cotton bud,put some super glue on the end and wipe it around where the bearings fit,let it dry then replace the bearings,this can be done on all the hubs and makes a big difference,
Replace the steering ball ends with the superstox solid ones with out the hole,I never change the washers on mine so it's fine and takes out a lot of play in the steering and hubs,I'm still running the 5 and as long as I keep ontop of it it's as good if not better than a new build, unless you do them on that too
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Old 10-30-2014, 04:28 PM   #2440
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Last weekend I tested the alum chassis and the active rear suspension at the LRP-HPI-Challenge Race in Estenfeld.

The track had so much grip, that every driver had the problem that the cars tilted very easy. The alum chassis helped, also the yokomo and xray driver used an alum chassis. Another Mi5evo driver (without an alum chassis had no chance to drive. The car was so soft obviously he used the 3mm top deck and the chassis strap setů.).

Before I used the active suspension I searched for a normal setup with 3░ rear suspension. It was good, but then I tested the special rear suspension and it was awesome. I can really recommend everyone to test it or to use it! The car was similar stable, but was faster at the corners and you can driver much closer! Unbelievable to drive!!

Here is the setup with the active rear suspension:
Attachment 1241262
I sent you a private message..,.
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Old 10-30-2014, 04:35 PM   #2441
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Last weekend I tested the alum chassis and the active rear suspension at the LRP-HPI-Challenge Race in Estenfeld.

The track had so much grip, that every driver had the problem that the cars tilted very easy. The alum chassis helped, also the yokomo and xray driver used an alum chassis. Another Mi5evo driver (without an alum chassis had no chance to drive. The car was so soft obviously he used the 3mm top deck and the chassis strap setů.).

Before I used the active suspension I searched for a normal setup with 3░ rear suspension. It was good, but then I tested the special rear suspension and it was awesome. I can really recommend everyone to test it or to use it! The car was similar stable, but was faster at the corners and you can driver much closer! Unbelievable to drive!!

Here is the setup with the active rear suspension:
Attachment 1241262
has anyone else used this modification? does it work on asphalt with the stock c/f chassis?
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:23 AM   #2442
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Me personally i run the 44t spur and a 24 pinion for the oudoor track i run at, I found this a great, its a great balance between acceleration and top end. for 17.5 blinky and the motor up max, the motor comes off at about 75C, which is fine for the motor in running.
hydrakermit, I have sent you a pm bud
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:08 AM   #2443
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Hi guys wanted to see what mods are ppl doing on the mi5 evo ( eg like the cut wishbone and dual bellcrank steering that's being tried )
If u could post what u did y and what effects it had and pics if possible
Just want to see what is left in the chassis , get all the .1sec we can out of our cars
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Old 11-14-2014, 04:31 PM   #2444
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Hi guys wanted to see what mods are ppl doing on the mi5 evo ( eg like the cut wishbone and dual bellcrank steering that's being tried )
If u could post what u did y and what effects it had and pics if possible
Just want to see what is left in the chassis , get all the .1sec we can out of our cars
Most of the build tips are covered in my build blog here.

Key things to pay attention too are the shocks (get rid of the kit o-rings), and diffs (add the extra case o-ring, and space out the out the outdrive rings). Build the car up as per the blog post, and you really won't be far off!

In terms of other things since I wrote that... not much really. Going to 2.5 rear arms I think is a must for pretty much all classes (including mod), as the kit arms do seem to give a bit too much rear toe. I still also prefer to run a 0.5 less rear arm on the left rear, seems to help even up the rear toe-in easier (so I have a 2.0 on the RL, and a 2.5 on the RR).

Cut arms are pretty simple to explain... turn the arm from an A to a V. Front and rear cut have been working the best for me everywhere (Low-med outdoor in mod), just give more grip all round. Having said that, I have tried uncut recently, I can see how they can help to make the car a bit easier to drive in slower classes/higher grip levels. Something the play with and see what you feel.

Flex is also the big thing for me. Pretty much settled on always 2.5mm top decks, forward brace installed, and FF and RR wishbone straps. Anything more flexible than that, and I find it makes the car inconsistent to drive. Going thicker on the decks does tend to alter the balance, taking away some entry steering, but giving a bit more exit. 3mm decks also can work well in the heat (IMO, high temps need less flex). But then again, I have seen plenty of guys in stock run their cars quickly with the kit parts... but for mod, I find the standard car is too flexy for my tastes. Again, many options there to test, (one of the big benefits of the car, IMO), don't be afraid to try different combo's of stiffness to see what suits you best. You might be surprised how much difference it can make...

Also the FR wishbone strap is a useful option too, and can be a good addition if you want to give the car a hair more mid rotation.

I will admit that I am playing around with some different setup stuff at the moment... probably due another blog post soon... just need to find some time to write one!

HiH
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Old 11-16-2014, 11:12 AM   #2445
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Im thinking about getting the mi5evo. Is it ok on carpet? And schumacher is not about to drop a new one i should wait for?
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