(Firstly I hope you understand what I´m writing. If any questions are open, just give modest. I'll try my best to answer them or to circumscribe the questionable terms understandable)
For those who are interested in an active rear suspension:
There are not so many things you need to build it.
You need a
-complete front suspension
(consisting of 2x U4552 carbon fiber wishbone front; 1x U4545 wishbone front bracket; 1x U4549 Micro Caster Block 4 degrees; 1x U4542 Pro Pin 2.5x21.25; 1x U4270 King Pin & Spacer; 1x U1529 Ball Bearings 4x8x3 with collar; 1x U4280 Ball Bearings 4x9x3; 1x U4256 Front Hub Carriers; 1x U4536 carbon fiber steering lever; 1x U4331 Driveshaft Steel Front; 1x U4547 Pro Kugelpfannen long; 1x U4274 Pro Ball Stud Short; 1x U4275 Pro Ball Stud Long; 1x U4577 aluminum hex hubs)
-For the actual attachment of the tie rods (25mm length) 1x U4281 Steering post or the spacer sleeves from U4601 carbon fiber wishbone Strap Set so that the wishbone remain mobile during compression
-It must also be installed a 2mm spacer between the spacer sleeves and the ball head. The wishbone stiffeners can also be used when using the active suspension. Therefore you replace the 2mm spacer with the strap set.
-To get less then 7mm ride height, you have to use lower spring plates like the HB TC/TCX one (#73510). And in addition to the new geometry you showed use harder springs (i used at the last race Schumacher Yellow or similar Spec-R 2.8) and harder damper oil (550cSt)
When correctly assembled, the track gain should be 2 °. So if you adjusted on the rear axle normaly 1 ° you get in the curve (compression) 3 °. The camber gain can be increased on the steering lever by inferior shims, or reduced upon removal of spacers.
Before disputes arise about the meaning of the suspension:
As always, Setup measures work differently everywhere. What works by one person good, must not be as helpful the next time. But I personally found the active suspension great and I will use and test them further.