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Old 10-14-2014, 10:42 AM   #2416
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[QUOTE=Gino S;13593741]
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Originally Posted by KILDK View Post

Thanks.

Did you also run the chassis braces? My car is so stiff with chassis braces and 2.5mm top decks - i'm wondering if this is over-kill?!
Chassis braces yes and the std top decks. The 2,5mm made the car understeering
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:58 AM   #2417
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Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
got a used mi5 last fri,with a bunch of rear arms in their marked bags,my ? is how do you tell the difference in the amount of tow,once you take them out of the bag?
thay all look the same to me.
The arm have little bumps(pips) on the back edge of the arm. No pips ,3 degs. One pip , 2.5 degs. Two pips , 2 degs .

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anyone have any thoughts on alloy chassis on carpet?
Big improvement on carpet . Stable and consistent. Car is heavy with Alum. chassis. Alum or Ti. hardware and turnbuckles are needed to bring wt. back into check.

[QUOTE=Gino S;13593687]
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Originally Posted by KILDK View Post

I seem to be finding that the alloy chassis develops under-steer on high grip, and rather surprisingly seems to work quite well on low grip as well. Have moved to 2.5 rear toe. Still under-steers.
Steers fine with 1mm roll center spacers under all arms .

[QUOTE=Gino S;13593741]
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Originally Posted by KILDK View Post

Thanks.

Did you also run the chassis braces? My car is so stiff with chassis braces and 2.5mm top decks - i'm wondering if this is over-kill?!
With Alum. chassis run strandard top deck rails and don't run middle brace .
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Old 10-17-2014, 03:57 PM   #2418
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Does anyone know if the evo blinky motor mount fits the 5?
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Old 10-18-2014, 04:44 AM   #2419
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How's everyone doing at the IIC?
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:28 AM   #2420
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Last weekend I tested the alum chassis and the active rear suspension at the LRP-HPI-Challenge Race in Estenfeld.

The track had so much grip, that every driver had the problem that the cars tilted very easy. The alum chassis helped, also the yokomo and xray driver used an alum chassis. Another Mi5evo driver (without an alum chassis had no chance to drive. The car was so soft obviously he used the 3mm top deck and the chassis strap set….).

Before I used the active suspension I searched for a normal setup with 3° rear suspension. It was good, but then I tested the special rear suspension and it was awesome. I can really recommend everyone to test it or to use it! The car was similar stable, but was faster at the corners and you can driver much closer! Unbelievable to drive!!

Here is the setup with the active rear suspension:
19.10.14_JensW_Mittelmotor2.pdf
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:58 AM   #2421
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[QUOTE=KILDK;13594461]
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Originally Posted by Gino S View Post
Chassis braces yes and the std top decks. The 2,5mm made the car understeering
KILDK,
CONGRATS on your 5th place finish in the Spec GT class A Main! Starting from the back of the grid and finishing 5th was very good. Thank you also for your help and assistance.

I would also like to give A big thank you to Phill at Discount RC Hobbies as well.
Not only did he help keep me on the right track, but the info and knowledge that he passed on was so valuable. Hope to see you again next year!

Rich
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:30 AM   #2422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWick View Post
Last weekend I tested the alum chassis and the active rear suspension at the LRP-HPI-Challenge Race in Estenfeld.

The track had so much grip, that every driver had the problem that the cars tilted very easy. The alum chassis helped, also the yokomo and xray driver used an alum chassis. Another Mi5evo driver (without an alum chassis had no chance to drive. The car was so soft obviously he used the 3mm top deck and the chassis strap set….).

Before I used the active suspension I searched for a normal setup with 3° rear suspension. It was good, but then I tested the special rear suspension and it was awesome. I can really recommend everyone to test it or to use it! The car was similar stable, but was faster at the corners and you can driver much closer! Unbelievable to drive!!

Here is the setup with the active rear suspension:
Attachment 1241262
You got an PM
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:32 AM   #2423
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[QUOTE=gdcopbdcop;13605734]
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Originally Posted by KILDK View Post

KILDK,
CONGRATS on your 5th place finish in the Spec GT class A Main! Starting from the back of the grid and finishing 5th was very good. Thank you also for your help and assistance.

I would also like to give A big thank you to Phill at Discount RC Hobbies as well.
Not only did he help keep me on the right track, but the info and knowledge that he passed on was so valuable. Hope to see you again next year!

Rich
Sorry but I am not the right person in this matter ;-)
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:35 PM   #2424
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Default Active Rear Suspension

(Firstly I hope you understand what I´m writing. If any questions are open, just give modest. I'll try my best to answer them or to circumscribe the questionable terms understandable)

For those who are interested in an active rear suspension:

There are not so many things you need to build it.
You need a
-complete front suspension

(consisting of 2x U4552 carbon fiber wishbone front; 1x U4545 wishbone front bracket; 1x U4549 Micro Caster Block 4 degrees; 1x U4542 Pro Pin 2.5x21.25; 1x U4270 King Pin & Spacer; 1x U1529 Ball Bearings 4x8x3 with collar; 1x U4280 Ball Bearings 4x9x3; 1x U4256 Front Hub Carriers; 1x U4536 carbon fiber steering lever; 1x U4331 Driveshaft Steel Front; 1x U4547 Pro Kugelpfannen long; 1x U4274 Pro Ball Stud Short; 1x U4275 Pro Ball Stud Long; 1x U4577 aluminum hex hubs)

-For the actual attachment of the tie rods (25mm length) 1x U4281 Steering post or the spacer sleeves from U4601 carbon fiber wishbone Strap Set so that the wishbone remain mobile during compression

-It must also be installed a 2mm spacer between the spacer sleeves and the ball head. The wishbone stiffeners can also be used when using the active suspension. Therefore you replace the 2mm spacer with the strap set.

-To get less then 7mm ride height, you have to use lower spring plates like the HB TC/TCX one (#73510). And in addition to the new geometry you showed use harder springs (i used at the last race Schumacher Yellow or similar Spec-R 2.8) and harder damper oil (550cSt)

When correctly assembled, the track gain should be 2 °. So if you adjusted on the rear axle normaly 1 ° you get in the curve (compression) 3 °. The camber gain can be increased on the steering lever by inferior shims, or reduced upon removal of spacers.


Before disputes arise about the meaning of the suspension:
As always, Setup measures work differently everywhere. What works by one person good, must not be as helpful the next time. But I personally found the active suspension great and I will use and test them further.




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Last edited by JWick; 10-21-2014 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Wrong Ball Bearing (U1411 instead of U4280)
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:20 PM   #2425
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[QUOTE=KILDK;13606031]
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
Sorry but I am not the right person in this matter ;-)
ooops!!! sorry, I thought you were Adam.

Adam did very well at the IIC!
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:54 PM   #2426
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[QUOTE=gdcopbdcop;13606788]
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Originally Posted by KILDK View Post

ooops!!! sorry, I thought you were Adam.

Adam did very well at the IIC!
Nob I am Eva
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:21 PM   #2427
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[QUOTE=gdcopbdcop;13605734]
Quote:
Originally Posted by KILDK View Post

KILDK,
CONGRATS on your 5th place finish in the Spec GT class A Main! Starting from the back of the grid and finishing 5th was very good. Thank you also for your help and assistance.

I would also like to give A big thank you to Phill at Discount RC Hobbies as well.
Not only did he help keep me on the right track, but the info and knowledge that he passed on was so valuable. Hope to see you again next year!

Rich

.. No problem Rich.. Always glad to help..!


That Active Rear looks pretty trick..!

..p
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Old 10-21-2014, 09:33 AM   #2428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reg View Post
Does anyone know if the evo blinky motor mount fits the 5?
No it won't. De motor is placed more inboard.

Regards Robert
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:00 AM   #2429
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No it won't. De motor is placed more inboard.

Regards Robert
also the holes for the motor mount don't match...
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:57 AM   #2430
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Hi guys. I'm thinking of going mid motor. I have the conversion for the evo, but when I built it up, the motor seems to far foreword and very close to the lo-profile servo.
My question is will the belts still fit with the blinky motor mount in mid to get the motor back, and how far back do's it put the motor compered to the normal motor mount.
this may be one for .discountRCstore.

Last edited by big paul; 10-25-2014 at 06:36 AM.
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