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Old 08-09-2014, 06:03 PM   #2356
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Hey all, does any 1 else run indoors on carpet that has tired the mid motor on the evo ? as struggling with it in rear motor compared to the mi5, I can do the lap times I am just on the ragged edge, compared to the ease of the mi5. I wanted to try all setups b4 changing to mid motor but it is proving difficult. we run jb 28 on carpet with med to high coming grip, 13.5 motor boosted, rear end it the biggest issue on breaks change of direction and sweepers,
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:23 PM   #2357
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Hey all, does any 1 else run indoors on carpet that has tired the mid motor on the evo ? as struggling with it in rear motor compared to the mi5, I can do the lap times I am just on the ragged edge, compared to the ease of the mi5. I wanted to try all setups b4 changing to mid motor but it is proving difficult. we run jb 28 on carpet with med to high coming grip, 13.5 motor boosted, rear end it the biggest issue on breaks change of direction and sweepers,
Can you post the rest of your setup, can suggest some things to try that might help.
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Old 08-10-2014, 04:21 AM   #2358
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Can you post the rest of your setup, can suggest some things to try that might help.
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:26 AM   #2359
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Ok, a few suggestions;

Bodyshell - Give the normal Speed6 a try. That's the "goto" shell for carpet racing, and will certainly help to settle the car.
Rear shocks - Hole 4 (one in from outside) seems to work best on the 5e. have tried going back between 3 & 4, but even in higher traction I find 4 better.

Rear end setup - Personally, I think your running the rear roll-centre way too low, with no shims under the arms, and extra shims on the inner links (Bare in mind that 0.5mm shims under the balls is equivilant to a yokomo or tamiya running 0mm under their suspension blocks) I would raise the roll centre back up by going back to kit settings, coupled with the rear shock change.
With the roll centre low, the car is likely to want to roll too deeply into the corner, and then dump it's grip. Hence why your probably felt like it was better in the middle shock hole, as it the shock will stiffen up more into the suspension travel the more laid down it is.

Diff - Try 1000wt, as this will help to lock the rear end a little more. You will gain a little off-power steering, but loose mid & exit. It will grip the rear up basically.

Rear hub plates - try the 2dink if you want the car to tighten up more in the middle of the turn.

Droop - 5.5 F / 4.5 R. Unless I'm running high ride-heights (which your not) then you need to compensate in the droop settings between the two cars. The wishbone end plastics on the 5e are thinner than the 5, so you effectively need to run a higher number on the 5e, to run the same droop as the 5.

In other settings, I'd also look to Yokomo Springs for carpet (Pink F Blue R), but should be able to get much closer with those above changes.

HiH
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:05 AM   #2360
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Ok, a few suggestions;

Bodyshell - Give the normal Speed6 a try. That's the "goto" shell for carpet racing, and will certainly help to settle the car.
Rear shocks - Hole 4 (one in from outside) seems to work best on the 5e. have tried going back between 3 & 4, but even in higher traction I find 4 better.

Rear end setup - Personally, I think your running the rear roll-centre way too low, with no shims under the arms, and extra shims on the inner links (Bare in mind that 0.5mm shims under the balls is equivilant to a yokomo or tamiya running 0mm under their suspension blocks) I would raise the roll centre back up by going back to kit settings, coupled with the rear shock change.
With the roll centre low, the car is likely to want to roll too deeply into the corner, and then dump it's grip. Hence why your probably felt like it was better in the middle shock hole, as it the shock will stiffen up more into the suspension travel the more laid down it is.

Diff - Try 1000wt, as this will help to lock the rear end a little more. You will gain a little off-power steering, but loose mid & exit. It will grip the rear up basically.

Rear hub plates - try the 2dink if you want the car to tighten up more in the middle of the turn.

Droop - 5.5 F / 4.5 R. Unless I'm running high ride-heights (which your not) then you need to compensate in the droop settings between the two cars. The wishbone end plastics on the 5e are thinner than the 5, so you effectively need to run a higher number on the 5e, to run the same droop as the 5.

In other settings, I'd also look to Yokomo Springs for carpet (Pink F Blue R), but should be able to get much closer with those above changes.

HiH
Ed
Thanks for the reply Ed,
right have dug out a mazda 6 speed shell and have done amost of the settings below but don't have to 2 dink yet, but on changing to the yokomo springs I was struggling to get below 6.5mm ride height on the rear so had to remove a bit from the bottom ball cup to get 5mm. oh and forgot to change the rear shock position on the sheet but its in hole 4, does that look ok as went back to kit settings for carpet ? racing this coming Friday but really busy at work so today is the day to change anything
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:51 AM   #2361
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Looks about right, just check the inner camber link shims. Normally run 1.5 on the front, 1mm rear. They are the other way round on the sheet.
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:16 AM   #2362
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hi happy to say the mi5evo is getting there a race day were i got 5th on the grid and a 2nd and 3rd place before the rain and even in damp conditions it handle brill and a 2nd and 3rd place in the finals

this is what i settled on did have more to try but rain halted that i would say setup wise its 90% there just tweeking now many thanks for the idea and tryhard for the message i did try the setup but for me this one worked better but thanks for going out ur way to help

also i know this looks like a hard setup but it seems to work on the banked corner even in the wet i havent finished wanna try 2.5mm top deck and camber link arms (short long amount of washer under ball joint )

Schumacher Mi5-piccie.jpg
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:53 PM   #2363
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Looks about right, just check the inner camber link shims. Normally run 1.5 on the front, 1mm rear. They are the other way round on the sheet.
Ah right, you ment kit setup not mh carpet kit setup, went back to stock on the wrong one, chris granger setup shows the inner links the way you said..
Thanks will give it a bash on Friday..... maybe wrong choice of words
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:04 AM   #2364
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Switching to off road so if anyone wants a great mi5 evo. I am Selling mine. SCHUMACHER MI5 EVO. FORSALE
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Old 08-19-2014, 02:28 PM   #2365
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Some parts for sale.

Schumacher MI5 parts, NIB.

Have a group of NIP spurs in 48 & 64p as well.
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:18 PM   #2366
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Hi everyone,

Ed, Is there a basic set up you use or could give me for tarmac please as I cannot find one or a good starting place anywhere, I race 13.5 boosted on a track that is low grip and tight. sometimes I run 17.5 blinky but that is occasionally, so a set up for both 13.5 boosted and 17.5 would be ideal. I mainly run 13.5 boosted though.

I have tried Chris Grainger's set up for my local track but it seems to be to aggressive as his set up is for mod and I run 13.5/17.5.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks in adavnce.
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:39 AM   #2367
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Hi everyone,

Ed, Is there a basic set up you use or could give me for tarmac please as I cannot find one or a good starting place anywhere, I race 13.5 boosted on a track that is low grip and tight. sometimes I run 17.5 blinky but that is occasionally, so a set up for both 13.5 boosted and 17.5 would be ideal. I mainly run 13.5 boosted though.

I have tried Chris Grainger's set up for my local track but it seems to be to aggressive as his set up is for mod and I run 13.5/17.5.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks in adavnce.
Which track is it? And which of Chris' setups did you try?
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:57 AM   #2368
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Found these vintage Schumacher setup tools today.
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:50 AM   #2369
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Which track is it? And which of Chris' setups did you try?
Ed
Ed,

The track is Stafford, and this is the set up I used:

http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Te...G_stafford.pdf

Many Thanks,
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:09 AM   #2370
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Ed,

The track is Stafford, and this is the set up I used:

http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Te...G_stafford.pdf

Many Thanks,
I have a few suggestions. First thing I would try is lowering the rear wishbones to a 0.5mm shim. This may or may not work, as I am personally preferring them raised, but that does also make the rear react quicker, which could be part of the aggressive issue. Try that first, and see how it feels before moving onto other settings.

Next things to try would be top decks brace, and rear hub plates. Doesn't mention it in the setup, but from chatting with Chris, he's mentioned that he always runs the forward brace. I've tested it on and off a few times, and prefer the car with it fitted, and then tune the flex with the top decks. Find the steering is too aggressive without the brace, far more consistent with it.
If you really want to lock down the rear, try the 2 groove rear hub plates. I've found these work well at some tracks, but not others (can become too slow to rotate through the middle)
Also, more front hub top shims. Try 1mm or even 1.5. I've pumped a few Setups into RC crew chief (Bob should have the 5evo model up soon), and 0 or 0.5mm on the top give negative camber gain, and wears the tyres funny too, IMO. Will also raise the roll centre in the front a little as well.
More Ackerman shims. I find putting more angle on the links (less shims) makes the car more aggressive on initial steering, but also takes away some mid corner. My personal preference ATM is for 2mm, seems to make the steering more linear all round, and helps to numb a little around centre.

Hope that gives some pointers to try out
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