The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

Aja Archibald, I only played with 3deg of toe yesterday. Hopefully the next time I go there will be a few more people to generate more grip...then I will play with the toe. 30 wt oil...hmmm...what springs? I've been trying to use the yokomo springs but I think they are to long, going to play with some others this week. I'll be at MRH Thurs and Sat from now till the IIC, so my hopes are to catch you there to compare notes Should be a good group of Schumacher guys rolling to the IIC.

Schwarta

iTrader: (4)

Awesome, thanks Ed. I'll be down there at some point.

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

I am the person with sliding rear issue, the problem was solved by replace all breoken bearing, slightly heavier diff oil (3000) and 3mm top deck which is the most important change. The main reason for high speed cornering slide was the chassis has too much flex for high bite high speed. Adding top deck blace or using thicker top deck will stiff up the chassis so it wont overflex and unflex to destroy the rear traction.

Talk about building tips for evo, mine are the use of TRF diff plate grease at the button cap thread of the shock to prevent the button cap to come out during race, I did that to all my damper because it does happen. On top of that, be careful when inserting the pivot joint into the carbon lower arm, these pivot parts are directional, otherwise lower arm will bind to yhe crush stoper and bulkhead. The other things to be careful is the rear lower arm molding, if it is too tight while inserting the carbon arm, file off the carbon a little so that the carbon wont stress the plastic part to cause breakage, this destroy the rear molding and hub in my cars.

YOKOMOSHO

iTrader: (1)

Oh Iain, not the schu! So disappointed.

Keith M.

Schwarta

iTrader: (4)

Pfft, it's not like your running a yokomo! Plus I've run Schumacher's forever!!

YOKOMOSHO

iTrader: (1)

Mmmmm Yokomo. Or maybe xray, haven't owned one of them before. Maybe a change by years end.

Keith M.

Schwarta

iTrader: (4)

Haha!! Then you can do your oldskool Yokomo call!

But you're off topic anyway!!

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Evo build tips blog post is up;

http://www.thard.co.uk/mi5evo/

Ed

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

Car Breaker, looking at what you did to resolve the problem I think we have different issues. When I went stiffer on setup the problem could be seen even more. When I took off the rear sway bar and rear brace the problem went away. I think there maybe something wrong, bent part or bad bearing or something....going over it to make sure everything is good.

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

I have check everything to ensure no broken parts on my car. It is that my local track does not like super soft chassis because of the rather high grip, Both my mi5 and evo prefer stiffer chassis and soft front end, If you have to go soft to be stable, I suspect that either you have you much front traction or too little rear if not any broken part in the rear.

I read your post again and notice that your shock doesnt sound right, better disassemble them completely to ensure everything is fine

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

After testing the crude prototype, I decided to shorten the chassis by 47mm. Not only does it make the wheel base 210mm but also give perfect tightness of the 140t belt available from Schumacher.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1405666830
the chassis as shown in the picture are widen 2mm on each side because U have to move the battery outward by that amount to avoid battery hitting center pulley; a battery stopper was added at the spot too.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1405667046
The rear battery holder was removed, instead, battery are hold using 2 tape and front battery holder in ARC R10 style. I file the slot at the edge of carbon to prevent breakage of the strip tapes
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1405667046
All electronics are mounted, Thanks to the genius design of Schumacher I have no problem fitting everything into the car, no need of smaller size esc. and plenty of space for the fan. even with 2mm extended the battery are still pretty far from the wheel. which is a plus compare to other big mini or 4wd mini with full size battery that has their battery right next to the rear wheel. this also ensure the centralization of weight for better handling.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1405667046
test fit of the body, actually I have to cut small of the front foam and using different body post for the rear in order to fit the Focus st body, I am thinking of getting the Proline 2011 Camaro GS which is closer look to sedan and hopefully easier fit of body.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1405667046
I am eager to test this baby in tract so I rush the painting. I am using 70 teeth spur and 31 pinion with 13.5t motor just to get a taste of it. plan to use a 10.5 or 8.5 turn after the car is properly setup. on a side note, A fellow reacer at my local tract using 6.5t turbo on his ARC R10 mini which as so fast and a little unstable to drive. I will not do that as I make this mini to drive slower than my touring yet have great handling. most importantly I can have some casual drive that wont hurt my battery so bad on hot summer (60 degree Celsius ground temp)

gdcopbdcop

I bought the blinky motor mount for the evo, and tried to mount it on my MI-5. It mounted up on the bottom ok, but the top deck was in the way. Thats too bad. I would like to use it in my rcgt car.

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Selling all my mi5 spares $150 pm me if interested. There's a lot and an unscratched 2mm stiff chassis in that bundle

tcboy1983

I did this as well as cutting the wishbone and the car broke away still but it's was just a controlled slide not ending with me face the wrong way , I then tried the 2.5 mm top deck and that has improved the rear 10 fold putting in fast laps but still not as planted as my mi5 round our banked sweeper

gdcopbdcop

The back end of my car was also quite loose. I placed a 1 mm shim b between the rear hub and the wheel, and changed the rear spring from the green to the blue. That locked the back end down for me very well.