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Old 07-09-2014, 04:00 PM   #2296
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I'd stand the rear shocks up.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:16 PM   #2297
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@tcboy; totally agree with what MattW says above. Stand the rear shocks up, either to middle hole, or one in from the outside. In my very limited running so far, I found that the Evo prefers the rear shocks to be more upright than the 5. Need to test this a bit more on higher traction track though.
That would be the first thing I would change anyway. If that does to solve the problem, then look at adding shims under the lower arms.

As for the cut arms, they should give more grip all round. Uncut arms are like running super stuff graphite arms with bolt on carbon stiffeners, IMO. Which are fine if your running on mega high traction, but most of us don't, which is where cutting the arms comes in.

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Old 07-10-2014, 03:23 AM   #2298
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Quote:
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@tcboy; totally agree with what MattW says above. Stand the rear shocks up, either to middle hole, or one in from the outside. In my very limited running so far, I found that the Evo prefers the rear shocks to be more upright than the 5. Need to test this a bit more on higher traction track though.
That would be the first thing I would change anyway. If that does to solve the problem, then look at adding shims under the lower arms.

As for the cut arms, they should give more grip all round. Uncut arms are like running super stuff graphite arms with bolt on carbon stiffeners, IMO. Which are fine if your running on mega high traction, but most of us don't, which is where cutting the arms comes in.

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I have heard about cutting the arms before but as a relative newbie to the Evo can someone point me in the direction of a picture of cut arms just so I am sure of where to cut please.
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:01 AM   #2299
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I have heard about cutting the arms before but as a relative newbie to the Evo can someone point me in the direction of a picture of cut arms just so I am sure of where to cut please.
Like this. Allows the arms to flex a little more.

In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.

Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.

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Old 07-10-2014, 04:17 AM   #2300
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TryHard - Since you know a lot about suspension and geometry setup for touring cars, have you taken the opportunity look at RC Crew Chief? I think you might enjoy it

Here's the link if your interested http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign.ca
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:48 AM   #2301
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Like this. Allows the arms to flex a little more.

In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.

Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.

HiH
Ed
How do the cut arms hold up to a crash? as they look a lot weaker and I see you countersink the screw holes which would further weaken them.
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:52 AM   #2302
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I know a lot of people cut the arms, but I can't see how the arms flex more due to the 2 mounting points.
The graphite arms on the BD7 are stiffer and I really couldn't tell the difference on the track either.
Just my 2 cents on the subject...
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Old 07-10-2014, 05:43 AM   #2303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
TryHard - Since you know a lot about suspension and geometry setup for touring cars, have you taken the opportunity look at RC Crew Chief? I think you might enjoy it

Here's the link if your interested http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign.ca
I've had a look at the software before... one of those things I keep meaning to get hold of, but slips my mind..

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How do the cut arms hold up to a crash? as they look a lot weaker and I see you countersink the screw holes which would further weaken them.
They are fine. The arms are 3mm thick after all, and plenty strong enough. I race only mod, and whilst I have broken two rear arms on the old car, these were freak crashes against a hard concrete wall!
More often than not, if the crash is big enough, you'll pop the arm off the ball before breaking them. And I'd prefer the arm to break than rip apart a chassis..

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I know a lot of people cut the arms, but I can't see how the arms flex more due to the 2 mounting points.
The graphite arms on the BD7 are stiffer and I really couldn't tell the difference on the track either.
Just my 2 cents on the subject...
It's not the lengthways flex, but how the arms twist. I've got both cut and un-cuts, and there is a definite difference both on the bench (in your hand), and on the track between using them. You rightly point out that there are two mounting points, but removing the brace will allow the balls to move closer to each other under load. It's not a big movement, but it's there, and that's what allows the arms to twist more.

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Last edited by TryHard; 07-10-2014 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:01 PM   #2304
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Like this. Allows the arms to flex a little more.

In my experience (from both schumacher and previous cars) the trick with suspension arm stiffness is to get the right balance between too soft (and losing responsiveness) and too hard (losing traction). Striking the right compromise will gain time, without affecting car handling balance. 99% of the time cut arms are the best compromise for the Mi5 & 5e.

Very rarely I would run un-cut rears, but always cut fronts.

HiH
Ed
Thanks Ed, appreciate that.
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Old 07-10-2014, 03:31 PM   #2305
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Cheers Ed and good to know.
I put the 2 degree rear arms on yesterday and do you put the same inserts from the kit setup?
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Old 07-11-2014, 03:28 AM   #2306
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Hey all, just getting back into the hobby after 8yrs and will be getting the Evo shortly. Haven't built a car since the Mi2 (I think!), so looking for any build tips, is there anywhere that has them in one place? I've seen actionrc's website and Tryhards blog.

Thanks in advance,
Iain
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Old 07-11-2014, 03:54 AM   #2307
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Originally Posted by Schwarta View Post
Hey all, just getting back into the hobby after 8yrs and will be getting the Evo shortly. Haven't built a car since the Mi2 (I think!), so looking for any build tips, is there anywhere that has them in one place? I've seen actionrc's website and Tryhards blog.

Thanks in advance,
Iain
One thing I seen of schie site about shock build is give one of the e clips a very slight twist so it pushes on the piston holes so limits up down float on the shock shaft.

Other then that thard site is really good
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:56 AM   #2308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwarta View Post
Hey all, just getting back into the hobby after 8yrs and will be getting the Evo shortly. Haven't built a car since the Mi2 (I think!), so looking for any build tips, is there anywhere that has them in one place? I've seen actionrc's website and Tryhards blog.

Thanks in advance,
Iain
Hi Iain,

I do have a draft evo build tip blog post on the go... Just need to find time to finish it off!
Also, I note your in Brisbane. Feel free to pop down to Logan tomorrow, we've got the 6hr enduro happening, and I'd be more than happy to help run you through any tips, and can have a look over the car too. Should be there from about 2ish till late.

Cheers
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:32 AM   #2309
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Well I got my second practice day on the rug yesterday. Noticed a few things that I'm going to have to work on. First, like a few other guys who posted here I noticed the rear end of my car has started to wash out in switch backs and long fast corners. Tested most of the obvious things to fix this but ended up removing the rear sway bar and the rear top deck brace to fix the problem. I really don't feel this is the way to fix the problem but it worked and lap times dropped... Also noticed that my pistons/shocks allow a lot of "Blow by" which made my shocks feel like they have no dampening. I was using 40 and 37.5 wt oil with yok pink and blue springs. Maybe I built something wrong because they just don't feel right...
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Old 07-11-2014, 02:57 PM   #2310
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Well I got my second practice day on the rug yesterday. Noticed a few things that I'm going to have to work on. First, like a few other guys who posted here I noticed the rear end of my car has started to wash out in switch backs and long fast corners. Tested most of the obvious things to fix this but ended up removing the rear sway bar and the rear top deck brace to fix the problem. I really don't feel this is the way to fix the problem but it worked and lap times dropped... Also noticed that my pistons/shocks allow a lot of "Blow by" which made my shocks feel like they have no dampening. I was using 40 and 37.5 wt oil with yok pink and blue springs. Maybe I built something wrong because they just don't feel right...
How much toe are you running in the rear?
BTW The shock oil may be a little heavy for my liking. I think the 30 Associated is the best. I looking to come down to middle river in august we can work together.
I am planning to go to vegas this year. Hope my MI5 guys are going.
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