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Old 03-30-2014, 01:56 PM   #1996
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Yesterday I had my second outing with the car.

...

Regards Robert

Robert what bodie you used? Looks like Mazda but windows ltcr.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:10 PM   #1997
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Robert what bodie you used? Looks like Mazda but windows ltcr.
Looks like a Mazda gx
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:03 AM   #1998
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Robert what bodie you used? Looks like Mazda but windows ltcr.
On the picture it's a Speed 6. On the track I also tried the Mazda 6GX. Liked it a little bit better for it's steering. It feels like it's in between the Speed 6 and the LTC-R.

Regards Robert
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:32 AM   #1999
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On the picture it's a Speed 6. On the track I also tried the Mazda 6GX. Liked it a little bit better for it's steering. It feels like it's in between the Speed 6 and the LTC-R.

Regards Robert
Agreed
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:46 AM   #2000
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Hi
Running at a track that has very very little grip now as its not been used much,had a day yesterday just trying things car is fine no tweeks etc.
Car is good for a few laps until the heat starts to go out the tyres so my question is how can i get the car to be more aggressive with the tyres to keep heat in them.
Its just that need to keep heat in the tyres other drivers there were trying things too.
Any ideas????
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Old 04-01-2014, 04:39 AM   #2001
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So I've been busy on the Hinge Pin mod like Ed has written on his blog:

http://www.thard.co.uk/mi5-hub-hinge-pin-mod/

The thing I noticed which he hasnīt described is that the suspension arm moldings are really tight. So when I screw the grub screw in the flat spot of the Hinge Pin it wonīt fall under its own weight, because the hinge pin has a really tight and snug fit in the susp. arm moldings. Maybe I have a newer version?

There are two options to solve this. Widen the suspensions arm holes. but, the are 3.1mm so a 3mm arm reamer isn't going to do anything.
The other option is to make the Hinge Pins a little smaller. The Hinge Pins are 3.1mm which I sanded down to 3.05mm. Now all the play is gone, and the rear hub will fall under its own weight. When it falls you see the hinge pin rotating.

A really nice idea from Hofer and Clark which I like. I still think it's not necessary, but I also like this type of mounting more. It's reduces the play a little bit more.

I've also reduced some play with the eyelet trick. by compressing the eyelet hole the play is gone. It's a temporary solution cause it will deform back in its old form. But I've ordered the old grey eyelets from Schumi and want to give them a try.

After some hours of wrenging I must say. This thing is so easy to work on! It looks really complex, but it really isn't!!!

Regards Robert
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:14 AM   #2002
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I think the rest of us all ream the wishbone end mouldings!

The "tightest" ball ends that Schumacher do is the old black ones - they were the MI4 kit items, and are a more "shiney" finish and don't have a hole in them. They can sometimes be too tight on some balls, but you can free them up.
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:09 AM   #2003
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I think the rest of us all ream the wishbone end mouldings!
I understand what you are saying. But I want some round holes in my wishbone mouldings, so sanding it wider isn't an option because that would not give a fully round hole.
Drilling would be an option. But going from 3.1mm to 3.2mm would probably give a to big hole which would give play at the end. Therfore I decided to sand the hing pins a bit .

Regards Robert
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:12 AM   #2004
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Use an 1/8 arm reamer?? or make your own from a 1/8 hinge pin? That's what the rest of us do.
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Old 04-02-2014, 12:17 PM   #2005
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Well I have a new one for you guys. I stripped the car down fully to clean it down. I started to rebuild the car when I noticed the carbon fibre link mounts on my car are different thickness, one is 2.5mm and the other is 3.0mm. The only trouble I have, I have no idea which was on the front and which was on the back.
In what order would guys run them 3mm at the back 2.5mm at the front, or the other way round.
I run rubber tyres on 30mx16m carpet mid motor 13.5 boosted.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:38 PM   #2006
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No matter the thickness it has no affect on the ball height.
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:35 PM   #2007
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Well I have a new one for you guys. I stripped the car down fully to clean it down. I started to rebuild the car when I noticed the carbon fibre link mounts on my car are different thickness, one is 2.5mm and the other is 3.0mm. The only trouble I have, I have no idea which was on the front and which was on the back.
In what order would guys run them 3mm at the back 2.5mm at the front, or the other way round.
I run rubber tyres on 30mx16m carpet mid motor 13.5 boosted.
I'm assuming you have 4 groove kit plates on? As mentioned above though, the thickness won't make a difference to the setting, as the mounting face is the same for attaching to the bulkheads and the camber link balls. I'd probably just put the thinner one on the front, but that's just me
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:24 PM   #2008
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Default Aluminum Chassis

Hey guys, does anyone know of an aluminum chassis for the Mi5? Has anyone had one machined? Where can I get one or get one machined?
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:48 AM   #2009
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I'm assuming you have 4 groove kit plates on? As mentioned above though, the thickness won't make a difference to the setting, as the mounting face is the same for attaching to the bulkheads and the camber link balls. I'd probably just put the thinner one on the front, but that's just me
Yes they are the 4 grooved kit plates. they are out of a new sealed in box kit.
thanks for the reply's, cheers guys.
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Old 04-03-2014, 11:01 AM   #2010
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Hey guys, does anyone know of an aluminum chassis for the Mi5? Has anyone had one machined? Where can I get one or get one machined?

... We have seen pics of prototypes and are working to secure one to test ourselves, however there isn't one commercially available at the moment; that we're aware of at least. We will post should one become available ...


...p

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