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Old 03-16-2014, 12:13 PM   #1951
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Looks sick. My car should be here mid week and should have it ready for next Saturday.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:40 AM   #1952
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I know they blacked the car out, but I re-purpled it
Nice..!



..p
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:39 PM   #1953
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Default Bumper mouldings

Hi all,

I wonder if anybody can help me with a problem i have at the moment.

I have gone through 6 bumper moldings the last 4 weeks. I have tried everything i can think of to stop this happening. I've tried putting my car in blinky mode so its slower, pre tapping the hole, not pre tapping them, loosening the screws off, everything, im starting to run out of patience now as this problem is really cheesing me off, no matter what i do, the bumper moldings snap and crack for some reason. No matter if I make a little mistake, or weather i clip a corner a little, the slightest knock cracks and splits the moldings.

I will upload a picture tomorrow as its late at the moment.

Please can anyone shed some light on this issue, or please can someone help me lol!

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:47 PM   #1954
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Originally Posted by hydrakermit View Post
Hi all,

I wonder if anybody can help me with a problem i have at the moment.

I have gone through 6 bumper moldings the last 4 weeks. I have tried everything i can think of to stop this happening. I've tried putting my car in blinky mode so its slower, pre tapping the hole, not pre tapping them, loosening the screws off, everything, im starting to run out of patience now as this problem is really cheesing me off, no matter what i do, the bumper moldings snap and crack for some reason. No matter if I make a little mistake, or weather i clip a corner a little, the slightest knock cracks and splits the moldings.

I will upload a picture tomorrow as its late at the moment.

Please can anyone shed some light on this issue, or please can someone help me lol!

Thanks in advance.
I'm guessing you're referring to the front lower bumper piece. If so, then they do break and I'm on my third (maybe fourth) already. Try getting the hard bumper from Discount RC and see if that helps. Better the plastic bumper piece than wrecking the graphite chassis or chassis arms though.
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:30 PM   #1955
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I'm guessing you're referring to the front lower bumper piece. If so, then they do break and I'm on my third (maybe fourth) already. Try getting the hard bumper from Discount RC and see if that helps. Better the plastic bumper piece than wrecking the graphite chassis or chassis arms though.
Hehe try, thanks for that, if im thinking right, the hard bumper wont stop the plastic from breaking? And yeah think ill put an order in when i get paid and for the wild thing things
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:40 PM   #1956
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Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
I'm guessing you're referring to the front lower bumper piece. If so, then they do break and I'm on my third (maybe fourth) already. Try getting the hard bumper from Discount RC and see if that helps. Better the plastic bumper piece than wrecking the graphite chassis or chassis arms though.
Is there anything else in the mean time i can do/try while i wait to get paid?
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:56 PM   #1957
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Default bumper

I had the same problem to fix it I made a carbon insert
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:51 PM   #1958
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Dale Ruptash, I had this same problem this year at Snowbirds. I went through about 4 bumpers in 2 days....and I really didn't hit anything What I did was run longer screws. I know this sounds simple but this is what I did and I didn't have a problem from that point forward. On the 3 parts that hold the bumper (2 plastic molds) together run the longest screw that will fit. It's important that the screws run "ALL" the way through the bumper. This will put more stress on the screw and not the plastic.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:08 PM   #1959
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Dale Ruptash, I had this same problem this year at Snowbirds. I went through about 4 bumpers in 2 days....and I really didn't hit anything What I did was run longer screws. I know this sounds simple but this is what I did and I didn't have a problem from that point forward. On the 3 parts that hold the bumper (2 plastic molds) together run the longest screw that will fit. It's important that the screws run "ALL" the way through the bumper. This will put more stress on the screw and not the plastic.
.. We've done something similar to Teach in that we use longer alloy screws from both the top and the bottom as well as extending the body posts slightly through the lower mount which acts to minimize the the 'shearing' that takes place on a hard impact.. I've not broken one since before Snowbirds, all the time using the hard bumper.. Dale has sent us pics of his solution and it looks really solid as well...


..p
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Old 03-21-2014, 03:35 AM   #1960
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Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
Dale Ruptash, I had this same problem this year at Snowbirds. I went through about 4 bumpers in 2 days....and I really didn't hit anything What I did was run longer screws. I know this sounds simple but this is what I did and I didn't have a problem from that point forward. On the 3 parts that hold the bumper (2 plastic molds) together run the longest screw that will fit. It's important that the screws run "ALL" the way through the bumper. This will put more stress on the screw and not the plastic.
Sound brill, and so simple hehe, think ill try this option first then look at alternatives
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Old 03-21-2014, 03:37 AM   #1961
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.. We've done something similar to Teach in that we use longer alloy screws from both the top and the bottom as well as extending the body posts slightly through the lower mount which acts to minimize the the 'shearing' that takes place on a hard impact.. I've not broken one since before Snowbirds, all the time using the hard bumper.. Dale has sent us pics of his solution and it looks really solid as well...


..p
Look brilliant! Thank guys so much for the advice and help I have received so far, I was close to giving up hope, but you guys have lifted the spirit within me to carry on racing

What type of screws are they? and do you still run the normal 2 on top with these added as extras?
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Old 03-21-2014, 03:44 AM   #1962
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Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
Dale Ruptash, I had this same problem this year at Snowbirds. I went through about 4 bumpers in 2 days....and I really didn't hit anything What I did was run longer screws. I know this sounds simple but this is what I did and I didn't have a problem from that point forward. On the 3 parts that hold the bumper (2 plastic molds) together run the longest screw that will fit. It's important that the screws run "ALL" the way through the bumper. This will put more stress on the screw and not the plastic.
What screws would be best for this? M3x10? or M3x12 do you recon?
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Old 03-21-2014, 03:50 AM   #1963
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Default Pivot points and diff leaking

While I know people reply on this website I thought i may as well post other problems that im trying to sort out.

1st thing is;
Before I changed lipos the car was perfectly balanced. I have now changed lipos and the new set im running is heavier that my old ones, (I think)

I have the Hudy set up station for 1/10th on road cars and it came with some pivot pins.

Where on the car do I use these pins in order to re-balance my car?

2nd thing is;
My rear diff leaks oil, is there any way to stop this? I read that I can buy another "O" ring to secure the seal but I dont want to pay 6/7 just for a "O" ring seems stupid to me, any other suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:10 AM   #1964
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Originally Posted by hydrakermit View Post
What type of screws are they? and do you still run the normal 2 on top with these added as extras?
.. We used 2x M3x8 alloy screws; one from the top, one from the bottom. We've also tapped the mold with a M3x.5 thread as this will reduce the strain on that area of the plastic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrakermit View Post

1st thing is;
Before I changed lipos the car was perfectly balanced. I have now changed lipos and the new set im running is heavier that my old ones, (I think)

I have the Hudy set up station for 1/10th on road cars and it came with some pivot pins.

Where on the car do I use these pins in order to re-balance my car?

The Mi5 is not designed to utilize this type of pivot, you will need Schumacher part U3582 - which is designed for this car specifically


2nd thing is;
My rear diff leaks oil, is there any way to stop this? I read that I can buy another "O" ring to secure the seal but I dont want to pay 6/7 just for a "O" ring seems stupid to me, any other suggestions?

A third ring will pretty much eliminate the leaking; it is a M26x1 rubber o-ring.. pm us your address and I will send you a couple ...


...p
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:27 AM   #1965
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Originally Posted by The Teacher View Post
Dale Ruptash, I had this same problem this year at Snowbirds. I went through about 4 bumpers in 2 days....and I really didn't hit anything What I did was run longer screws. I know this sounds simple but this is what I did and I didn't have a problem from that point forward. On the 3 parts that hold the bumper (2 plastic molds) together run the longest screw that will fit. It's important that the screws run "ALL" the way through the bumper. This will put more stress on the screw and not the plastic.
thanks Teach, i will do this before sunday.
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