KBRacing

I have run three races and 4 times training with the servo setup, and if anything goes, then it's the servo horn from Serpent ......

KBRacing

It may be that might sound silly, but what is New in those parts, because I can not see the difference ......????

Quietman

There are two types of front arm one smooth,one more aggresive,brace for front end

mcdoogle

Has anyone tried this combination ?

KBRacing

I'll try it between Christmas and New Year, when I test up to the DHI Cup

dorkmissle

iTrader: (29)

Anyone tried bleeder caps on their Mi5? Curious how they are over bumps.

Also, I see discount has the arm pivot balls in stock, anyone tried to replace one yet?

HappyHippo

iTrader: (12)

woorks great on low tracktion, when the tracktion get better then the car sets too much down and looses cornerspeed..

Ill goint to try this agian with C-hus setup to see if that is better

KBRacing

Do you have a part number....????

DiscountRCStore

We've just begun testing with them in the last week or so with mixed opinions. In general, we agree that they make the overall 'feel' of the car subtlety softer so depending on how you like the car to transition, it can be a favorable difference. ( part U4130 ) The pivot ball sockets ( part U4244 ) are CA'd in place and can be knocked out ( carefully! ) or with a bit of acetone can soften the glue just enough to knock out ( don't soak them too long, can begin to break down the carbon fiber )

Schumacher part U4244

Quietman is correct. There will be a front brace to compliment the rear brace that will further stiffen the chassis and help create a better balanced feel from front to rear. Because our current steering rod has no real ackerman adjustment, there will also be ( 2 ) available steering plate options of different lengths. We've not yet seen them in person however, the shorter one should offer more ackerman ( less aggressive ) with the longer ones offering less ackerman ( more aggressive ). The shock towers thickness has been increased to 4.3mm to help minimize deflection in the shock angle as well firm up to top of the bulkheads, helping to make the chassis flex a bit less and drive more accurately..

Maybe Ed will chime in and offer more info if we overlooked something.. hope it helps! ...

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

You can (just) see the front brace in this picture from the ETS;
http://ets.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...hofermi5-5.jpg

Think of them as the difference between running one-piece or split blocks on other cars. So running the braces reduces the flex at that end of the car, which can change the balance and reduce the overall grip at that end.

The shock towers, look similar positions (the holes don't look lower), so thickness is probably the main thing.

Regarding the ackerman plates, I would hazard a guess that they move the mounting hole in-wards, rather than back, but worth checking that.

I've been running ackerman plates with the mounting hole moved in towards the centre of the car 1mm, based on the advice of Grainger and Matt W. I found that it helps to give the car more steering, but more linear as well (at least when used with the centre ball rack as well, easier to see here http://ets.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...hofermi5-9.jpg). I have tried plates with the hole 2mm in, but wasn't so sure on them, so have just kept the 1mm in versions on both my cars.

HiH
Ed

The Teacher

iTrader: (62)

TryHard, who makes the center ball steering rack and 1mm in ackerman plates that you run???

scott_g

iTrader: (9)

C-hub setup? Do tell? C-hubs up front?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I made them myself. The ackerman plates, I just cut up a buggered chassis plate that I had from a previous car, and drew up in cad a template to mark out the new hole positions.
The rack, was also pretty simple. Firstly filled in the cut-out in the rack, by cutting a strip of carbon to size, and sanding it down to the right thickness, before Aralditing it in place. Then I drilled and tapped new holes in the middle of the rack, 8mm apart.

HiH
Ed

dvsstrike

iTrader: (9)

I recently been running the mi5 just to take a break from the dirt and have had great success with the car. My good friend gdcpbdcop has an identical set up with the only difference is the 2mm chassis. the only difference I feel is how responsive the car is. I do not like that car to be that twitchy for me. I have been preferring the stock chassis with the braces. the only complaint I have is I can't keep up with those awsomatix car on the straight it always pulls 3-4 car length every thime on the straight and it looks like he is running boost or something I have to work my ass off to catch him on the infield and always do by the time we hit straight again he is gone. my question is how can I free this thing up?

jtsbell

iTrader: (16)

It's called HORSE POWER aka MONEY lol