clhccoach

Has anyone tried the new rod ends for the v2.
They claim to have a tighter tolerance.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

They are still loose and too soft in my opinion.
I am now looking for alternatives for the upper links but I am having trouble determining which ones are the right size as the manufacturers don't specify their size rather the model they fit.

heretic

Agreed, that's rather annoying. I wish someone would create a post listing the actual ball stud sizes (measured with calipers, not the size claimed by the manufacturer). I tried to create a list like that for bone blade sizes a few years back, but it didn't gain any traction. The thread listing belt sizes has been a success however.

SGrubb

I just put new 8mm ballstud-short part #31281 and new turnbuckle eyelet part #31305
associated it looks like a good match the big test will be this weekend. will let you know. Team Fantom Driver

SpeedySST

iTrader: (6)

There you are Steve!!

SGrubb

Day after racing at 5280 the new carpet is good lot of traction and it will only get better the car worked good with the associated ball and cups i had to go to 8mm long in the front top of the c-hub the short pulled out. need a touring body with less grip.let me know if you r runing on fast track 2 carpet thanks

SpeedySST

iTrader: (6)

Ive been using Schumacher ball ends since I owned the SST 99 Pro. Very little, if any slop.

B3nno810

iTrader: (3)

Ok so im adding tc to my list of classes that im running and have been a fan of the detc410 since it came our so i have 2 on order.

As im new to tc im going to be starting with spec class.

Just wondering with this car what hop ups/tuning options are a must have and what spares are going to be needed etc.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Cheers.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

The car is pretty great out of the box. That having been said... as long as you are getting the V2 model, all you need to change is the servo mount blocks as the plastic is not really rigid enough to be reliable. Some say use a piece of servo tape between the servo and chassis but I feel that negates the floating aspect of the servo mount. You will want to pick up more springs and anti-sway bars as tuning options. I am working on a full floating steering mount as well as a few other carbon goodies. I have noticed many team drivers have changed out the front composite out drives to the steel ones as well as changing to steel drive shafts vs the aluminum. So far I haven't had any problems with the stock stuff but I usually don't hit much. If you tend to use the boards, you may want to swap out the tie rods for Titanium as the aluminum tends to bend easily.

B3nno810

iTrader: (3)

Cheers for the reply man. Theyre v1 kits as i can get them at a really good price. First time racing onroad. But the tracks ill be running on will be outdoor asphalt. Ill look inyo the titanium rods if theyre going to be an issue and steel out drives.

Ive got a list together of various things from what ive been able to read on here and go from there i suppose.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

You will likely want the hard suspension parts as well. They are much better than the V1 plastic. You will also need spur gears to match the motor class of your choosing.

Limamikemike

I recently picked up two used DETC one has a gear diff up front one has a spool, what's the advantage of running the gear diff over the spool? The gear diff appears to have a very thick fluid in it so it appears it's almost locked anyway.

Thanks

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

The diff is useful on tight technical tracks with lower power motors. The spool is a little better on larger tracks and is a bit more suitable with higher powe motors like 13.5 and lower.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

And I've found the diff to have more steering.

SpeedySST

iTrader: (6)

You know, this car has been nothing but a lesson in frustration. From having to take off the top deck just to change a pinion to finding out the middle stiffener only allows a maximum size pinion, I wish Id known about the silliness of the design.