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Old 05-24-2015, 01:42 AM   #1096
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I have to say just finished building a kit.
I'm impressed at how everything went together. Zero reaming, arms dropped under their own weight first time, shocks feel right, gear diff butter smooth.

Probably the best bang for the buck of all the current brands.

The only thing I would change are the ballcups and bumper....but I've done that on all my cars. Usually go for Top ends, etc...super beefy.
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Old 05-24-2015, 02:27 AM   #1097
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What ballcups and bumper you use?
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Old 05-24-2015, 03:32 AM   #1098
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Originally Posted by BLbound View Post
I'm thinking about picking 1 of these up...what's the pros & cons you guys have found out? I used to run TC back in its heyday...last car I had was an X-ray T2. Looks like spare parts are reasonable on tower...it also looks like the best bang for your buck...lmk what you guys think please!
If you read back through the posts a bit you'll find a lot of whinging and moaning about the durability and the slop. But TBH I think there is a lot of personal attribution to that story. Yes the car has a soft bumper, so leave the inserts in, glue em in if you want but I've been running one of mine for 6mnths and they haven't come out. The slop, well I'd rather have a little slop in the ballcups than none, just ask the AE guys about the TC6 and TC6.1, those things were bound up outa the box, yeah the Rango has slop, but really is that going to make up that half a second per lap that you are missing or is your driving going to do that. For the price you get a heck of a car, all the adjustability in one box, and buttery smooth feel. Get yourself some steel outdrives and a piece of velcro for the battery strap and you're good to go. The car has a very good range of gearing that can fit as well, the belts are stiff outa the box but free up nicely and last the distance. My major gripes are that you need an imperial 0.05 driver for the wheel hexes and shock caps and the battery strap mounts arte a bit soft so when attaching those use a longer screw and lock nut, otherwise, its a minta
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:08 AM   #1099
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And it comes with the double joined front cvds, aluminum turnbuckles etc at in the box, the cost complete car I know of, and also one of the cheapest. I love mine so far.
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:56 PM   #1100
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Cool, thank you guys for your insight!
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Old 05-27-2015, 05:47 PM   #1101
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Just bought this kit as my first serious touring car.

Got it from my usual online dealer for 220 instead of 420 usually.

So it is a real bargain.

It will replace my old cracking TF5-S (S might stand for "Scheap Splastic Sparts that Sbreak Scontinuously...) which has sustained a 9T abuse.

And it will join my wonderful bahsing toy aka my TLR 22 SCT (which was my first serious off roader..)

And, set aside, time has come to offer my 8 years old kid his first kit which will be a simple Tamiya buggy, as each first kit should be
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:20 PM   #1102
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Bought two cars here in the UK after three years off racing at a discounted price basically got two cars for the price of one.

Overall I was impressed with the build everything went together well driveshafts were a bit fidley but other than that really good.

Ran the cars with basic setup and were very easy to drive straight out of the box.

Think that every car has areas to work on and durango have good options such as steel out drives and the titanium camber links although I'd probably only run these indoors. I'm sure the durango designers are working on developing original parts to improve the car.

I use to run the top racing photon and then the ex, the durango is far far better quality no tweak at all a little bit of movement in plastics but I don't think that hurts I'd rather have it like that than over tight.

At a recent national I saw lots of drivers with yokomos TC but on the track I didn't think the yokomo was much better yes I'd say a bit better build quality on minimal parts but it should be for the price compared to durango.
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:10 AM   #1103
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Hi guys,

Since i've seen your questioning about the ballcups around here, i think i could give you my tip on that. Use a plier and squeeze a bit the ballcup until you got something like this image. I'm pretty sure in the end you'll get almost zero slop and free movement.

Check the attached image.
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Team Durango DETC410-2015-05-29-16.42.36.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:20 AM   #1104
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Well since i'm here here is another vital one. Not sure if it was shared here before. Learned this one from Ben Cosgrove.

Remove the step shaft screw (TD701016) from the layshaft and use it instead of the countersunk screw on the inside of the motor mount (see image attached). I use cone washers with countersunk screws to hold the motor mount together and some plastic spacers on the layshaft ones just to not crush the layshaft holders and create unwanted tweak to the chassi.
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Team Durango DETC410-2015-05-26-23.34.58-1.jpg   Team Durango DETC410-2015-05-26-23.35.35-1.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:02 AM   #1105
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So I noticed Durango makes steek front drive shafts, but none for the rear. Does anyone know if any of the other 44mm rear drive shafts work on the Durango? Tamiya?
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Old 06-09-2015, 03:54 AM   #1106
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I'm building my kit and I just can't figure out how to build the front driveshafts.

Attaching the dogbone to the collar with the pin through the bushing is OK.

But attaching the wheel-side axle to the collar seems merely impossible.

I can't have the pin all the way through all the bushing/axle/collar.

I think I have messed up applying too much force as now, the bushing doesn't rotate well in the wheel axle, despite the grease.

I think i'll have to order a new set of bushings / axles.

Do you guys know the best way to have theses shafts assembled ?

Thanx
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:31 AM   #1107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megastef View Post
I'm building my kit and I just can't figure out how to build the front driveshafts.

Attaching the dogbone to the collar with the pin through the bushing is OK.

But attaching the wheel-side axle to the collar seems merely impossible.

I can't have the pin all the way through all the bushing/axle/collar.

I think I have messed up applying too much force as now, the bushing doesn't rotate well in the wheel axle, despite the grease.

I think i'll have to order a new set of bushings / axles.

Do you guys know the best way to have theses shafts assembled ?

Thanx
I followed the step by step guide however it is pretty fiddley, you might have applied too much force if it doesn't rotate, they are fiddley but so are most but you shouldn't try and force them. Without seeing them I'd probably advise asking someone to show you how to do them and check see if yours are damaged.
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Old 06-09-2015, 08:34 AM   #1108
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I read the whole topic and I might have found a way to build this damn CVD : the tiny screws inside the bushings need to be shortened in order to loosen them while the wheel axle is in place inside the collar.

I keep you in touch.

I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.

I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
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TLR 22 SCT with EZRun 17.5T and GM Racing 80A ESC
ECX Torment with EZRun 9T / 60A Esc (lots of fun)
Still Wondering what to do with my 7T Delta wound motor
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:12 AM   #1109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megastef View Post
I read the whole topic and I might have found a way to build this damn CVD : the tiny screws inside the bushings need to be shortened in order to loosen them while the wheel axle is in place inside the collar.

I keep you in touch.

I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.

I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
The only thing I can say, is that it took some patience, time, and a lot of playing with it to get it together. The set screw had to be screwed in, but not all the way in order to get everything aligned properly.
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:12 AM   #1110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megastef View Post
I read the whole topic and I might have found a way to build this damn CVD : the tiny screws inside the bushings need to be shortened in order to loosen them while the wheel axle is in place inside the collar.

I keep you in touch.

I asked my LHS for spare axles before ordering them overseas, waiting for their answer.

I am also considering buying another complete kit for future spare parts, while it is still available.
Ye they take a bit of time to get rite, it's worth getting a car for parts especially at this price it is now, I haven't heard anything about the car not been availiable I the future
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