R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-23-2015, 09:19 AM   #1021
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Nordholz - Germany
Posts: 16
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by micksid View Post
morning all. its probably been mentioned some where in the 68 pages, but last night i bent a rear camber link, so i would like to upgrade to titanium or another alternative, and while im at it would like to upgrade the ball cups to get rid of some of the slop.

so can anyone recommend me turnbuckles and ball cups. links would be appreciated

many thanks
I used the Tamiya turnbuckles (Tamiya - 53513). Itīs durable than the aluminium turnbuckles.
Fischmeister is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 02:39 PM   #1022
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 109
Default detc vta

Hi does anyone in this thread race vta with their car?
Just wondering how it does.
Torn between getting a dect410 or tc6.2
hershey66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 05:35 PM   #1023
Tech Initiate
 
clhccoach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: crystal lake
Posts: 45
Default vta setup info

I'm just finishing up the build on my detc410
I'll be driving VTA on a small technical asphalt track.
initial setup information like front and rear diff oils
Shock oil and springs would be appreciated.
__________________
Xray t3
Sanwa mt-4

GO Blackhawks
clhccoach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 08:58 PM   #1024
Tech Fanatic
 
tbrymer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 981
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hershey66 View Post
Hi does anyone in this thread race vta with their car?
Just wondering how it does.
Torn between getting a dect410 or tc6.2
I know someone at my local track races a Durango in the vintage class. He used to have a tc6.2 and switched to the Durango. He said that the Durango worked much better straight out of the box, and his tc6.2 never ran as well even with months of setup.
tbrymer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 09:28 PM   #1025
Tech Adept
 
Heathen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 192
Default

How do you feel it stand on the tough scale? How tough are the arms, ect? Looking for a good VTA racer.
__________________
Addicted since 1995!!
VBC D07, VBC D08, MTS FF Pro, Calandra 1/12 XTi, SCMT Warpath, AE RC8B3e
Heathen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 09:34 PM   #1026
Tech Master
 
Crowbo74's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 1,309
Trader Rating: 111 (100%+)
Default Vta

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrymer View Post
I know someone at my local track races a Durango in the vintage class. He used to have a tc6.2 and switched to the Durango. He said that the Durango worked much better straight out of the box, and his tc6.2 never ran as well even with months of setup.
Yup, I have 2 that run in vta every week. Car is average on durability. Just like all cars, if you hit something it breaks. Parts are cheap so buy a set of arms, steering knuckles, c hubs, and bearing carriers. Replace the front spool with a gear diff with metal outdrives and the car works great. Best car I have had out of the box.
Crowbo74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 10:11 PM   #1027
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 109
Default

Glad to hear it's working good. I think that seals the deal for me. I just built a Desc410 and so far it's a great truck.

Are you running on carpet or asphalt?
How have you tuned your car from the stock kit setup to work better?
Thanks
hershey66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 10:26 PM   #1028
Tech Master
 
Crowbo74's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 1,309
Trader Rating: 111 (100%+)
Default Vta

Quote:
Originally Posted by hershey66 View Post
Glad to hear it's working good. I think that seals the deal for me. I just built a Desc410 and so far it's a great truck.

Are you running on carpet or asphalt?
How have you tuned your car from the stock kit setup to work better?
Thanks
We run a parking lot track that is sprayed with soda.

I started with the asphalt high grip setup and changed the following:
Added gear diff in front stuffed with ear plugs
Shortened wheelbase front and rear by 1mm
Added an extra 1mm shim under the front inside camber link
Moved the rear shock mounts all the way in
Changed the rear toe in from 2.5 to 3 degrees

Hope that helps.
Crowbo74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 10:42 PM   #1029
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 109
Default

I didn't know people are spraying soda on asphalt too. That's interesting.
I have a question. Wouldn't a spool feel similar to what people are doing with putty or ear plugs in a gear diff?
Can you explain how it feels different from a spool.
I'm just thinking about my life experiences of having a spool in my 1:1 scale car. Not sure how it affects a rc car
hershey66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 11:03 PM   #1030
Tech Master
 
Crowbo74's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 1,309
Trader Rating: 111 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hershey66 View Post
I didn't know people are spraying soda on asphalt too. That's interesting.
I have a question. Wouldn't a spool feel similar to what people are doing with putty or ear plugs in a gear diff?
Can you explain how it feels different from a spool.
I'm just thinking about my life experiences of having a spool in my 1:1 scale car. Not sure how it affects a rc car

A spool will push more when entering a tight corner under power. The earplugs or putty will still allow some slip on power but keep inside wheel spin down on corner exit. The stock spool is also a weak point, it has plastic outdrives. If you add a front gear diff, make sure to buy the correct front diff outdrives as they are different than the rear outdrives.
Crowbo74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 11:15 PM   #1031
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 109
Default

OK that makes sense. Do you happen to have the part # for the gear diff and out drives?
hershey66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2015, 08:21 AM   #1032
Tech Fanatic
 
tbrymer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 981
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hershey66 View Post
OK that makes sense. Do you happen to have the part # for the gear diff and out drives?
If you want to replace the spool with a diff you should buy TD210041 and TD310440.

When I put the gear diff in the front on my car I noticed that the rear end seemed a lot more planted and less likely to break loose when coming out of the corner. I put wax ear plugs in my front gear diff and I have 3000cst in the rear. I run on medium traction asphalt.
tbrymer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2015, 12:03 PM   #1033
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 109
Default

Thanks for the part numbers and tips
hershey66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2015, 12:57 PM   #1034
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 13
Default

does anyone have specific part numbers for the tamiya ball cups and ball studs please?
micksid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2015, 01:26 AM   #1035
Tech Adept
 
Bmans5's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Nanaimo, BC
Posts: 114
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc-demon View Post
Thanks for sharing this setup, very intersting i will need to try this. Now you know to start a race on a full charge

What front gear are you refering to?
The Front is a gear diff, instead of just a spool. Not quite to sure on how it was built with what gears (bought the car used) but it works for me (or seems too).

Yeah, the full charge thing has been solved in two ways.....make sure I charge it, and second, upgraded the Battery.

The Battery upgrade created more problems though...I had a NIMH in before, went to a LIPO and my buddy didn't warn me....it was like a turbo boosted rocket....I spent the first race constantly adjusting setting on my Controller just so I wasn't spinning the tires every time I touched the throttle.

We had a break and I used the time to dial it in, then my race was up next, so I stayed on the track knowing I had enough juice to make it thru.
The call went to line up in the starting grid, I did, and I have NO idea what one of the other racers was thinking but he came down the straight into the grid and hit me full tilt.....and destroyed the rear of my car...like a bomb went off.... so of course I was out for that race.
Luck for me, I pack spares....so 2 control arms, 1 bend control arm rod, a broken knuckle...and on and on...basically all my spare rear end parts....I got the car fixed for the b-main Qualifiers.
The guy who hit me was a little meek about it..he apologized and I was...okish....by this point but I won't lie, I may have been a bit aggressive when I passed him on the second lap, I may have hit him somewhat intentionally, and I may have made a point to trade paint when him every time I passed him as I got 2nd place and Moved to the A-main.

It was still a little loose in the rear end, Haven't swapped the springs yet, and I think the battery made it more of an issue...I figure I reprogram the ESC to for a less aggressive curve and it will be better.

I still say the car is durable, I mean what happened to me was purely a freak stupid accident, but when I am racing...car has not failed me on the durability front.
Bmans5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:31 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net