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Old 12-16-2014, 06:23 AM   #901
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The difference is not only the name of the brand and the pro team. I have additionally a Yokomo BD7 and a Yokomo B-Max. The Yokomo has better equipment, better quality of parts (especially alu parts) and spare parts cheaper than the durango.
For the money, the durango costs 200€ in germany, is the car ok. But my opinion, for the regular price is the durango not so cheap.
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:51 AM   #902
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Hello, rc-demon,
Can you please explain why you think the stock bumper is crap?
If you leave it as one part without takubg out the inserts it's pretty stiff and protects the front suspension well.
Even with the inserts in its still too soft, try a hard bumper!

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The next thing is: what makes a kit for 200€ worse than a kit for 450€? I think the example of the detc410 makes clear, that you pay a lot for the brands name and their pro drivers. Durango decided that they don't need a pro team anymore and they give the benefit to the costumers with a lower price. This does not affect the quality of the car.
The price drop is certainly to liquidate old stock since a new version will come out soon. It was marketed to be in the same category as the high end kits and i believe it is. Im not so sure the price will drop this much because they dont have Pro drivers anymore.[/QUOTE]
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:25 AM   #903
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Hi, Fischmeister,

Can you tell me what you mean by Quality of Aluminium parts? I really would like to know, how you judge the Quality. Has someone here ever bent an bulkhead? Iīve heard from the turnbuckles, yes, but this is all natural because they are made of Aluminium. Would you prefer steel turnbuckles in the kit and get Aluminium as Option? The same question for the drive shafts. For competition-racing I really like the kit-parts.

And were has the yokomo better Equipment? As far as I know you have to buy some more parts for the yokomo than for the Durango? For example toe blocks and Iīm not sure but I think djc too?

Rc-demon:

Why is the stock bumper too soft? Do you Crash very often and break Suspension parts? How does your track look like? Maybe you have track conditions that are indeed very challenging for material. I donīt know.
Here in europe I donīt hear about such issues.
What we have experienced is that the threads wear out fast. Thats why we are testing new materials.

Our latest informations are that there is no new kit planned.
Youīre right, that the Initial Marketing was for a high end touring car. serious about racing. But now there is the Change in strategy. This does not make the car worse. but more cost effective. I know the Aluminium parts are quite expensive, but the plastic parts are the opposite.

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Old 12-17-2014, 04:37 AM   #904
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Hi Lutz,

the threads are close, the anodizing is better, the milling is cleaner an the suspension has overall closer tolerances. You can see it an feel it.

The Yokomo have a steering complete made of aluminium, the servo holder is made of aluminium, the spool is made of aluminium and the outdrives, the turnbuckles and driveshafts are made of steel.

It makes you not faster, but it gives you a better durability. Yes, i had to buy more parts for adjust the suspension. But this parts are cheaper than the Durango, allmost all parts cheaper than the Durango.

Nonethless, the Durango is a good car. I like the car and it drives well, especially for the price.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:51 AM   #905
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anyone know if somebody that makes aluminum steering bellcranks for these things?
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:21 PM   #906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
Rc-demon:

Why is the stock bumper too soft? Do you Crash very often and break Suspension parts? How does your track look like? Maybe you have track conditions that are indeed very challenging for material. I donīt know.
Here in europe I donīt hear about such issues.
What we have experienced is that the threads wear out fast. Thats why we are testing new materials.
Having a harder bumper will help on impact. Below are some posts in this thread. Everyone i know with a DETC410 has changed the bumper.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13177870-post536.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13214724-post606.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13234709-post628.html

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Old 12-19-2014, 03:01 AM   #907
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Sorry to hear you think the Aluminium Quality is not top notch. I will bring it to discussion when the plastic is finalized. Maybe we can Change the design a bit to make it look more beautiful. But I think the material and tolerances are good and not worse than any car out there (maybe only awesomatix is really outstanding?).

The fit of the plastic parts will be improved soon.

Have you Problems with the durability of the drivetrain? Is it wrong to have a spool made of plastic, to reduce the stress on the driveshafts and to give it a smoother Feeling? Thats exact what Xray, Topracing, TeamC, and other have done, too. On the track itīs faster.
I like to replace a spoolcup after many battery packs, instead of any other part of the drivetrain. I like this System more that having steel vs. steel or the Need to replace blades very often. Donīt you think so,too?

I canīt say much about the Price for parts... I donīt have the Informations to compare Prices of other manufacturers. Maybe someone can give some examples?

Greets
Chris
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Old 12-19-2014, 08:08 AM   #908
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Sorry to hear you think the Aluminium Quality is not top notch. I will bring it to discussion when the plastic is finalized. Maybe we can Change the design a bit to make it look more beautiful. But I think the material and tolerances are good and not worse than any car out there (maybe only awesomatix is really outstanding?).

The fit of the plastic parts will be improved soon.

Have you Problems with the durability of the drivetrain? Is it wrong to have a spool made of plastic, to reduce the stress on the driveshafts and to give it a smoother Feeling? Thats exact what Xray, Topracing, TeamC, and other have done, too. On the track itīs faster.
I like to replace a spoolcup after many battery packs, instead of any other part of the drivetrain. I like this System more that having steel vs. steel or the Need to replace blades very often. Donīt you think so,too?

I canīt say much about the Price for parts... I donīt have the Informations to compare Prices of other manufacturers. Maybe someone can give some examples?

Greets
Chris
Well since your asking, this is the weak link in the car. http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310381

On impact, when the steering is at a large angle the small locator ball on the end on the axle breaks off. There isn't a lot of material securing the ball to the face of the axle, this needs to be beefed up.

I thought the rest of the car is very good.
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Old 12-19-2014, 08:23 AM   #909
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got me a detc410 coming. can't wait to try it out. I'm currently running the ofna h4e. that car has a brittle front end. I put a kydex bumper and harder foam on it. it seems to be much better. I will do the same for the Durango. my tc driving skills are lacking most times. need all the cushion I can get.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:03 PM   #910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodney Racer View Post
Well since your asking, this is the weak link in the car. http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310381

On impact, when the steering is at a large angle the small locator ball on the end on the axle breaks off. There isn't a lot of material securing the ball to the face of the axle, this needs to be beefed up.

I thought the rest of the car is very good.
Hm never seen this happen... just heard of it... I wonder what could be the reason... since this part is made of steel, maybe there is an issue with the fit at a special angle...
may I ask how you build the dcjs? I personally use asso black grease when assembling them... I know of people using dryfluid or oil... and it happened once when they hit a wall very powerful with modified motors...
I'm just wondering if this is an factor...

greets
Chris
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:40 PM   #911
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Hm never seen this happen... just heard of it... I wonder what could be the reason... since this part is made of steel, maybe there is an issue with the fit at a special angle...
may I ask how you build the dcjs? I personally use asso black grease when assembling them... I know of people using dryfluid or oil... and it happened once when they hit a wall very powerful with modified motors...
I'm just wondering if this is an factor...

greets
Chris
Never happened to me as I put a hard bumper on right at the start, and I'm not too hard on cars either, but have seen it first hand with another racer. He went threw at least 3 sets of these, even with the hard bumper. The problem is there is very little material that attaches the ball to the backing plate of the axle itself. It even looks weak right out of the package.
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:58 PM   #912
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I had 4 of these and am down to 3 at the moment. I raced 17.5 blinky, 21.5 spec gt and have 2 25.5 vta. I have many races behind the controller with these cars on a tight parking lot track. The only weakness I would say the cars have are the front spools. All my cars have the gear diff in the front now and have performed flawless week after week. In 6 months racing 3-4 cars at least 3 weekends a month, I have only broken 1 front c hub when I hit the boards at a glancing blow. I listened to all the hype in the beginning and put tamiya suspension on the car and ended up converting back to the stock durango parts. Prior to the durango I had every tc## you can name. I sold 3 6.2's after I drove the first durango and haven't looked back. The parts were cheap enough for me to buy all the spares I will ever need and to this point I haven't used them. The plastic shims suck but were easily changed. I am not a pro driver, but have found the durango to fit my needs and have many wins with them. Just my $0.02.
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:55 PM   #913
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Lovin this thread, so far all I have read is that when you hit something you break something, well here's a remedy to all the problems, DON"T HIT ANYTHING? If you watch coverage of pro races you will notice that they very seldom hit any thing, as that is by far not the fastest way around a track, if you continually hit things in any car, you will break it, regardless of whether its a Rango, and AE, an Xray, they all break, yes the bumper is a bit on the soft side, just glue the pop out bits back in and it as reasonably firm, I have seen all manner of different DCJ's spit themselves out so its not only isolated to this car, ask any old Tamiya driver about the old aluminium drive shafts that they used to run, you'd just spin them right off if you were using a spool and not even have to hit anything lol, yes there is a slight issue regarding the "Slop" within the ballcups, but IMO that is a lot better than what the AE TC 6 dished up, I'd rather have a little slop over ball cups that were so tight they would bind. Over all I like the design of the car and like they way it drives, we run on a track that has no grip yet the Rango straight out of the box hooked up nicely, and all I really had to do was calm down the response of the steering a little, these are a great wee platform to get out there and race with, they may not be of the same hob nobbery of some of the other brands on the market, but they work.
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Old 12-20-2014, 12:38 AM   #914
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Glad to see there are some people left who are satisfied with the car :-)

Never the less, testing goes on :-D

We hope to present the results as soon as possible.

Greets
Chris
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Old 12-20-2014, 04:30 AM   #915
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I usualy pit with the UK Durango boys,they are always testing new parts and updated bits,
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