Team Durango DETC410
#871
Tech Adept
@toroloco:
Iīm sorry to hear youīve broken so many parts... I for myself did not break anything, but had one or two threads go bad. But I must admit: I donīt crash so often and maybe the tracks in Europe are more forgiving.
Either way: Durango is working on new plastic-compounds. This helps especially against the slop and drive-consistency. Canīt say if it breaks more or less yet, but the threads are better, too.
What I can suggest at the moment is: glue the inserts from the foam bumper in and donīt leave them out. This makes for a lot harder bumper and more protection.
The prices of aluminium and drive train parts may not be the lowest, but I think itīs durable. Did not have to change one belt and Iīm racing my kit for nearly a year in 10.5 blinky class.
Only thing was spool-outdrives. But I like to change them over any other part that might break in instead.
I think that all plastic parts are pretty inexpensive.
Iīm sorry to hear youīve broken so many parts... I for myself did not break anything, but had one or two threads go bad. But I must admit: I donīt crash so often and maybe the tracks in Europe are more forgiving.
Either way: Durango is working on new plastic-compounds. This helps especially against the slop and drive-consistency. Canīt say if it breaks more or less yet, but the threads are better, too.
What I can suggest at the moment is: glue the inserts from the foam bumper in and donīt leave them out. This makes for a lot harder bumper and more protection.
The prices of aluminium and drive train parts may not be the lowest, but I think itīs durable. Did not have to change one belt and Iīm racing my kit for nearly a year in 10.5 blinky class.
Only thing was spool-outdrives. But I like to change them over any other part that might break in instead.
I think that all plastic parts are pretty inexpensive.
#872
Tech Adept
@ekt :
Really nice site you have there
Really nice site you have there
#873
Tech Adept
Thanks !
The kit goes together smoothly, check out my build here http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...ld&buildpage=1
#874
Tech Adept
@toroloco:
Iīm sorry to hear youīve broken so many parts... I for myself did not break anything, but had one or two threads go bad. But I must admit: I donīt crash so often and maybe the tracks in Europe are more forgiving.
Either way: Durango is working on new plastic-compounds. This helps especially against the slop and drive-consistency. Canīt say if it breaks more or less yet, but the threads are better, too.
What I can suggest at the moment is: glue the inserts from the foam bumper in and donīt leave them out. This makes for a lot harder bumper and more protection.
The prices of aluminium and drive train parts may not be the lowest, but I think itīs durable. Did not have to change one belt and Iīm racing my kit for nearly a year in 10.5 blinky class.
Only thing was spool-outdrives. But I like to change them over any other part that might break in instead.
I think that all plastic parts are pretty inexpensive.
Iīm sorry to hear youīve broken so many parts... I for myself did not break anything, but had one or two threads go bad. But I must admit: I donīt crash so often and maybe the tracks in Europe are more forgiving.
Either way: Durango is working on new plastic-compounds. This helps especially against the slop and drive-consistency. Canīt say if it breaks more or less yet, but the threads are better, too.
What I can suggest at the moment is: glue the inserts from the foam bumper in and donīt leave them out. This makes for a lot harder bumper and more protection.
The prices of aluminium and drive train parts may not be the lowest, but I think itīs durable. Did not have to change one belt and Iīm racing my kit for nearly a year in 10.5 blinky class.
Only thing was spool-outdrives. But I like to change them over any other part that might break in instead.
I think that all plastic parts are pretty inexpensive.
Nice to see that You are so committed to the brand because they need people like You to survive in the TC jungle.
But don't be to successful because they will drop you like other racer who are responsible for what Team Durango was standing till a few month's ago.
Claude
#875
Tech Adept
Thank you for your kind words, Claude.
I donīt think I will become a paid pro driver in the near future since I have so many other commitments which keep me from travelling so much, but I doubt it was all so sudden and these drivers where just dropped... At least I hope it was a decision both parties can live with. I donīt know much about the details in this topic...
Letīs hope the plan will work.
Maybe you will give Durango a second chance in the future?
We work on improving the current situation.
Greets
Chris
I donīt think I will become a paid pro driver in the near future since I have so many other commitments which keep me from travelling so much, but I doubt it was all so sudden and these drivers where just dropped... At least I hope it was a decision both parties can live with. I donīt know much about the details in this topic...
Letīs hope the plan will work.
Maybe you will give Durango a second chance in the future?
We work on improving the current situation.
Greets
Chris
#876
Tech Adept
This is the car of Ben Cosgrove from ets last weekend. Picture postet on facebook by team durango.
#877
#878
what is everyone use for 17.5 class. I have 116 tooth stock gear 64 pitch
#879
Tech Adept
@Dino_D:
Yes it's an aluminium chassis. He was testing new materials for suspension as well.
@ww29:
I use 77 or 74 teeth 48dp for 17.5 and 10.5 racing. But for 17.5 we are limited to a fdr of 4.5.
That would be 74/ 32= 4.5093
For ets with 13.5 and fdr is limited to 5.0 : 77/30=5.005
Greets
Chris
Yes it's an aluminium chassis. He was testing new materials for suspension as well.
@ww29:
I use 77 or 74 teeth 48dp for 17.5 and 10.5 racing. But for 17.5 we are limited to a fdr of 4.5.
That would be 74/ 32= 4.5093
For ets with 13.5 and fdr is limited to 5.0 : 77/30=5.005
Greets
Chris
#880
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
First timer Touring car racer....
I got my used roller DETC last week, hastily assembled it Friday morning, and Raced That night....by race I mean 4 practise laps, and one race lap...
Between a messed up ESC, too short a set screw in a shock mount, a Servo with no servo saver and not checking everything it wasn't a good outing, but I still had fun.
Can't blame the car though....it was pure rookie driver error rushing to race and not checking everything first.
The car is now Reassembled, proper set screws, new Parma front bumper, freshly painted body (good from 10 feet squinting....don't look too close though ) and everything working. Race is this Friday night, and I hope to have a better race night.
Only things I note that could be issues....The shocks seem super soft and have little rebound, should I rebuild them over the Xmas holiday?
Does anyone have any recommended setups for a medium grip carpet? track is different each week, usually with a tight infield, and some long outside straights.
Any suggestions for a newbie would be helpful
I got my used roller DETC last week, hastily assembled it Friday morning, and Raced That night....by race I mean 4 practise laps, and one race lap...
Between a messed up ESC, too short a set screw in a shock mount, a Servo with no servo saver and not checking everything it wasn't a good outing, but I still had fun.
Can't blame the car though....it was pure rookie driver error rushing to race and not checking everything first.
The car is now Reassembled, proper set screws, new Parma front bumper, freshly painted body (good from 10 feet squinting....don't look too close though ) and everything working. Race is this Friday night, and I hope to have a better race night.
Only things I note that could be issues....The shocks seem super soft and have little rebound, should I rebuild them over the Xmas holiday?
Does anyone have any recommended setups for a medium grip carpet? track is different each week, usually with a tight infield, and some long outside straights.
Any suggestions for a newbie would be helpful
#881
Tech Adept
Just received my kit this morning, woohoooooooooooooo.
I will be driving it with a 9.5T full boost on an asphalt curcuit in 2015 when the weather is better (i have my 12th scale for indoor).
Is there anyone that can help me with what spur and motor pinion to use please ?
Thanks !
Greetz,
C.
I will be driving it with a 9.5T full boost on an asphalt curcuit in 2015 when the weather is better (i have my 12th scale for indoor).
Is there anyone that can help me with what spur and motor pinion to use please ?
Thanks !
Greetz,
C.
#883
#884
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
I last ran a D3.5 17.5 motor with the 12.5 rotor and our indoor carpet track is about 75’ x 65’. I have a new EcoPower 17.5 coming from Amain and should have it in the car for the next club race. Below is a video I took of the guys running their Tamiya Ferrari bodies in the 17.5 blinky class that might give a better idea of track size.
http://youtu.be/52HIqjhcbIU
http://youtu.be/52HIqjhcbIU
#885
@Dino_D:
Yes it's an aluminium chassis. He was testing new materials for suspension as well.
@ww29:
I use 77 or 74 teeth 48dp for 17.5 and 10.5 racing. But for 17.5 we are limited to a fdr of 4.5.
That would be 74/ 32= 4.5093
For ets with 13.5 and fdr is limited to 5.0 : 77/30=5.005
Greets
Chris
Yes it's an aluminium chassis. He was testing new materials for suspension as well.
@ww29:
I use 77 or 74 teeth 48dp for 17.5 and 10.5 racing. But for 17.5 we are limited to a fdr of 4.5.
That would be 74/ 32= 4.5093
For ets with 13.5 and fdr is limited to 5.0 : 77/30=5.005
Greets
Chris