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Old 04-21-2014, 04:30 PM   #571
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Seems like a pretty decent car and putting a Xray hard bumper on it seems to save parts.

The sad part is I sent Team Durango a e-mail some 3 weeks ago and got the typical automated response that they would get back to me in at the most 2 days, well, still no response, pretty sad.
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:42 AM   #572
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Originally Posted by Rodney Racer View Post
Seems like a pretty decent car and putting a Xray hard bumper on it seems to save parts.

The sad part is I sent Team Durango a e-mail some 3 weeks ago and got the typical automated response that they would get back to me in at the most 2 days, well, still no response, pretty sad.
Contact Great Planes (Hobbico) US Distributor if you have any warranty issues or product questions. Team Durango email will not be the fastest way to get a response. What was your question?
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:58 AM   #573
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Nice chart! This will be helpful thanks.
Thanks Jeff, it is also now up on petit rc for reference!
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:37 PM   #574
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Contact Great Planes (Hobbico) US Distributor if you have any warranty issues or product questions. Team Durango email will not be the fastest way to get a response. What was your question?
It was specifically about the "Team" itself.
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:30 PM   #575
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It was specifically about the "Team" itself.
US sponsorship is also handled through Hobbico.
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Old 04-22-2014, 03:07 PM   #576
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any advices for me building the shocks without rebound? Can`t get it right. I`m doing like it`s written in the manual, but at the end I still got rebount and the weird thing is that there is a different amount of rebound on every shock.
On my TF-6 I had no issues with that.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:40 PM   #577
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Tower hobbies is the US distributor for team Durango you can contact their customer service department and I'm sure they can help you get in touch with them or handle your concern.
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:55 PM   #578
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any advices for me building the shocks without rebound? Can`t get it right. I`m doing like it`s written in the manual, but at the end I still got rebount and the weird thing is that there is a different amount of rebound on every shock.
On my TF-6 I had no issues with that.
My shocks shafts only come out about an 1/8 th of an inch.
Fill the shocks
Get out air bubbles
Push shocks shaft all the way up (shock ends attached)
Put bladder on kinda pinch it to let extra oil spill out the sides/ wile seating the bladder at the same time ( kinda tricky sometimes, bladder might slip inside shock if so start over)
The hole time your doing this keep a finger on the bottom of shock end and make sure all extra oil has come out by slight pinching of the bladder
Put on shock cap(screw must be out) tighten cap wile still holding up shock end
Put in screw.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:16 PM   #579
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I am looking for arms and hubs if anyone has any to sell or has a source.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:05 PM   #580
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If you want zero rebound build your shocks like normal fill all the way to the top and let all the bubbles out then I always roll my bladders on all my shocks as the excess oil will be pushed out of the side do this while shock shaft is fully extended. install the cap and leave the bleed screw out so it can breathe. Very simple and all shocks will be the same.
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:50 AM   #581
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O rebound with shock shaft fully extend bladder..cap.. screw, thas pretty good never could get 0 rebound that way, to each his own i guess
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:48 AM   #582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loomumbaa View Post
any advices for me building the shocks without rebound? Can`t get it right. I`m doing like it`s written in the manual, but at the end I still got rebount and the weird thing is that there is a different amount of rebound on every shock.
On my TF-6 I had no issues with that.
Getting "zero" rebound or a dead shock shaft and also, making all (4) exactly the same can rattle your head sometimes.

Basically getting a completely dead shock shaft isn't totally necessary as 20% rebound is practically the same as a dead shock. The suspension will never compress to the point of "zero" rebound on the track under it's performance.

There are different strokes for different folks when building shocks. However the best method of accomplishing very little rebound, I found the following methods work well for me and several others. Rosko summed it up on his last post

* Once oil is in place and air bubbles have escaped, lightly roll the shock bladder on top of the shock body, take a 2mm wrench for example, lightly press down on the middle of the bladder using the tip of the wrench "sealing" the bladder and also allowing the excess oil to escape. All this needs to be done with the shock shaft not compressed into the shock body.

* At this point you can fully tighten the cap on the shock body. At this point you'll probably find 100% rebound, but a smooth feeling shock.

* Fully compress the shaft into the shock body (with the shock end on as Rosko mentioned) and hold the shaft fully compressed into the shock body. At this point you can loosen the bleeder screw on the shock cap until the remaining oil bleeds out. Once all remaining oil has escaped replace and fully tighten the bleeder screw back into the shock cap then release shock shaft. This will achieve very little rebound if any at all.

* Keep in mind getting all (4) shocks exactly the same can be little frustrating but if all 4 shocks are between 5 - 20% rebound you'll be tip top.
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:07 PM   #583
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thanks for all your helping advises guys.
My Problem is that there is no oil bleeding out of the bleeding hole. Help me if I`getting something wrong but when I think about it, I start to wonder how there ever can get oil out of these holes when the bladder is installed. Would excess oil pass the bladder?

I got it work with about ~20% rebound, but now when fully extend the shaft it`s soaking back into the shock body about ~20%, too.
Isn`t this a sign for not enough oil in the shock, other hand rebound for too much oil?
These shocks are fkn with me.......
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:00 PM   #584
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put some tamiya shocks on, I built everything with trf dampers, and it made the car handle quite well, and you can get 0 rebound out of them, I tried building a set of durango dampers but found them to garbage
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:29 PM   #585
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Hello all. Here is a little tip to tuning these shocks.
(When using bladder shock)

When aiming for zero rebound build them as follows.
Fill with oil and leave for air bubbles to go
Push the shock shaft all the way up
'Roll' the bladder onto the top as said earlier (allowing oil to be displaced by the bladder)
Fit the top cap WITHOUT the bleed/vent screw
With the shaft fully compressed then install the bleed screw
This should remove the trapped air behind the bladder.

A simple way to the add some rebound (can be done with the shocks on the car)
Remove the bleed/vent screw.
Fully extend the shock shaft
Re install the bleed/vent screw
This will increase the volume of air behind the bladder

The air behind the bladder (and therefore rebound) can be 'set' this way pretty quickly and easily.

I really believe that we do have the best and also most tuneable shocks available right now. Take the time to learn how they work to get yourself an advantage on the track.

We can have bladder or emulation shocks without the need to change parts
We have multiple hardness o-rings
Option to run 1 or 2 o-rings (1 spacer from the piston parts tree replaces 1 o-ring and separator spacer)
When using bladder you can leave out the vent screw to have a vented shock cap and tune with either foam or o-rings above the bladder.

Hope that helps
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