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Old 05-08-2015, 11:35 PM   #1141
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Originally Posted by BrandonB75 View Post
Thanks! BTW, is the 101w worth the cost? The Xray x1 is slightly cheaper, but how do they stack up side by side, for those of you who have experience with both cars?
I would get the Xray...
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:55 AM   #1142
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how do you guys remove on power steering from the 101? I can get the car to work on carpet but I do not know how to do this on low/medium (in the hot sun) parking lot.

I had a terrible time this past weekend. every time I barely applied power mid turn the car would over rotate. even getting to full speed on the straight was difficult without the car wanting to wander left and right. I made lots of changes but I could not apply power until the car was complete straight. I tried to loosen the diff and slip the diff but I could not find a sweet spot for tightness.
only thing I didn't change was battery position. i have the battery all the way to the back of the car.

Welcome to any input.

P.S. I was running the new option front end. I feel this gives the car lots of steering. because you can control the roll center by changing the height of the lower arms. <- ultimately this was probably my problem for this past weekend.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:40 AM   #1143
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Originally Posted by Markus View Post
how do you guys remove on power steering from the 101? I can get the car to work on carpet but I do not know how to do this on low/medium (in the hot sun) parking lot.

I had a terrible time this past weekend. every time I barely applied power mid turn the car would over rotate. even getting to full speed on the straight was difficult without the car wanting to wander left and right. I made lots of changes but I could not apply power until the car was complete straight. I tried to loosen the diff and slip the diff but I could not find a sweet spot for tightness.
only thing I didn't change was battery position. i have the battery all the way to the back of the car.

Welcome to any input.

P.S. I was running the new option front end. I feel this gives the car lots of steering. because you can control the roll center by changing the height of the lower arms. <- ultimately this was probably my problem for this past weekend.
are you running droop? And how much camber? What tires and how much sauce?
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:32 AM   #1144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus View Post
how do you guys remove on power steering from the 101? I can get the car to work on carpet but I do not know how to do this on low/medium (in the hot sun) parking lot.

I had a terrible time this past weekend. every time I barely applied power mid turn the car would over rotate. even getting to full speed on the straight was difficult without the car wanting to wander left and right. I made lots of changes but I could not apply power until the car was complete straight. I tried to loosen the diff and slip the diff but I could not find a sweet spot for tightness.
only thing I didn't change was battery position. i have the battery all the way to the back of the car.

Welcome to any input.

P.S. I was running the new option front end. I feel this gives the car lots of steering. because you can control the roll center by changing the height of the lower arms. <- ultimately this was probably my problem for this past weekend.
Putting the battery all the way back will contribute to rotation like adding weight to a pendulum.

What side damper fluid? What side spring ?

Is the servo with the output shaft pointing up or forward? If up, how many spacers under the ballstud?

Inline or trailing front axles? You want trailing most times on asphalt.

How are your links set? Wide? Narrow? Angled?
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:12 PM   #1145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus View Post
how do you guys remove on power steering from the 101? I can get the car to work on carpet but I do not know how to do this on low/medium (in the hot sun) parking lot.

I had a terrible time this past weekend. every time I barely applied power mid turn the car would over rotate. even getting to full speed on the straight was difficult without the car wanting to wander left and right. I made lots of changes but I could not apply power until the car was complete straight. I tried to loosen the diff and slip the diff but I could not find a sweet spot for tightness.
only thing I didn't change was battery position. i have the battery all the way to the back of the car.

Welcome to any input.

P.S. I was running the new option front end. I feel this gives the car lots of steering. because you can control the roll center by changing the height of the lower arms. <- ultimately this was probably my problem for this past weekend.
Good to know the new front end gives more steering, as the TRF101 seemed to struggle a little for me on carpet. I run the battery to the back to make it rotate more to compensate, so I suppose trying to move that forward could help.

Although as mentioned, side links and springs are probably other things to check first.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:47 PM   #1146
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Here's what I ran in the main. car felt the same as earlier in the day.
I tried a Hero change and let the diff slip.... but slipped too much. At the tone I slammed the throttle from P1 and caused a 4 or 5 car maylay because the diff was too loose.
Anyway dissect this if you please.

New front end. assembled as instructions say
low profile servor. xray servo saver. spacers to make links level. ackerman links pointing backwards from center to out.
trailing arm position
steering ball stud outer most position
Tamiya Black front springs, Tamiya antiwear on kingpins
TCS /pit tires - no sauce on fronts no clean. 2 layers of CA on full sidewall
Rears fx2 applied all minutes not on track. reapplying once dry until heat before my qualifier
new 3 run rear tires, old many run front tires
center shock - 3 hole piston - asso 25wt oil - mini old folorescent short blue spring
side links - outter most hole - asso black springs - not touching the link
ride height F 5.5 M 4.5 R 5
side tube - Tamiya antiwear grease
gearing 88/33
Body Ferrari F60
Speedo Hobbywing v3.0 inital 1st punch 3 2nd punch 7 goes up to 30 I think.

I could drive the car but I could not race the car, if that makes sense.
any throttle input more than a whisper would over rotate the car back into the barrier.
Here's how I could drive the car (not at all the way I wanted) I could let the car push off power before the turn. As the apex came I could barely touch the throttle to make the car rotate. then on exit if I throttled a hair to hard... the rear end would come around too quickly and far. Try to do that in a racing situation with someone breathing down our neck. lol. its stressful
Maybe I should have locked the diff down tighter instead of loosening?

Thanks for the help

Last edited by Markus; 05-18-2015 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:53 PM   #1147
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My first guess is that AW grease is too heavy for the side damper. The chassis needs to roll a bit to generate grip. The diff can be toght as long as it's free, if there is no diff action the car will want to swap ends.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus View Post
Here's what I ran in the main. car felt the same as earlier in the day.
I tried a Hero change and let the diff slip.... but slipped too much. At the tone I slammed the throttle from P1 and caused a 4 or 5 car maylay because the diff was too loose.
Anyway dissect this if you please.

New front end. assembled as instructions say
low profile servor. xray servo saver. spacers to make links level. ackerman links pointing backwards from center to out.
trailing arm position
ball stud outer most
Tamiya Black front springs, Tamiya antiwear on kingpins
TCS /pit tires - no sauce on fronts no clean. 2 layers of CA on full sidewall
Rears fx2 applied all minutes not on track. reapplying once dry until heat before my qualifier
center shock - 3 hole piston - asso 25wt oil - mini old folorescent short blue spring
side links - outter most hole - asso black springs - not touching the link
ride height F 5.5 M 4.5 R 5
side tube - Tamiya antiwear grease
gearing 88/33
Body Ferrari F60
Speedo Hobbywing v3.0 inital 1st punch 3 2nd punch 7 goes up to 30 I think.

The could drive the car but I could not race the car, if that makes sense.
any throttle input more than a whisper would over rotate the car back into the barrier.
Here's how I could drive the car (not at all the way I wanted) I could let the car push off power before the turn. As the apex came I could barely touch the throttle to make the car rotate. then on exit if I throttled a hair to hard... the rear end would come around too quickly and far. Try to do that in a racing situation with someone breathing down our neck. lol. its stressful
Maybe I should have locked the diff down tighter instead of loosening?

Thanks for the help
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:20 PM   #1148
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First make sure the pod is free. Withe only the lower pod plate and links attached the action should be totally free. Otherwise you need to adjust the football.

As Brad said a/w grease is way too hard. Put 20 k in there , run a few laps and then discotnnect the tube. Run a few more laps. If its better go lower on the lube. If its not stay there or try the next step up.

Also floating side springs are bad business in low traction. In fact you want to try some preload. Your car will not go straight because nothing is stablizing the rear end and on top of that you have molasses in the tube so it can't respond. Plus a black ae spring is way too soft for a/w grease anyway. With side springs sometimes it pays to have a little stiffness. A silver or blue might be a little better for you. Remember a softer side spring encourages more rotation and can feel floaty. A real stiff side spring will make it slide but the car will square up. You need to find the medium there.

The rest looks decent. You might want to try the middle position on the steering knuckle. That will make the car roll through the center of the corner a little better without making the front end bite up. Less Ackerman makes the car feel sort of aggressive mid corner but the amount of wheel angle is kind of like brakes. It gets the car rolling over. That can be an advantage if the car has traction especially on asphalt but if you are not hooked up forget it.

Also I would heat the rears if you have warmers. In fact fx2 on first and then put something oily like tire tweak or sxt 2.0 ( the brown stuff not 3.0 the clear carpet stuff) and bake em.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:30 PM   #1149
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thank you for restoring order in my head. I was all over the place with setup ideas that I didn't know what was right or wrong any more. My head was spinning and I was wrenching the entire time. I was trying everything to just fix one part of the drive. I was mixing rights and wrongs at the same time. That's what I get for only running F1 for TCS events. I will be sure to add all of these notes and other notes to my master sheet.
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:08 PM   #1150
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I'm having the same problem with my TRF 101 on the same asphalt that my 104 X1 kills on.

New front end made it even worse.
Can't get out of a corner to save my ass.

Tried all kinds of stuff.

Tires, ride heights, damper lubes, side springs, shock oils and spring, droop, sag and on and on, back and forth.
My T plate car will destroy this thing with no special attention.

Was sure I could get it at least close

Time to put it away and focus on the new TRF 419 for now

robk will figure it out and all will be right in the F1 world again!
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:31 AM   #1151
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Sometimes I find adding front toe out makes an undriveable car so easy to drive.
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:13 PM   #1152
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So finally my car hit the track this weekend.
Few "brand new" photos
Attached Thumbnails
TRF101-img_eos-450d_12784.jpg   TRF101-img_eos-450d_12790.jpg   TRF101-img_eos-450d_12793.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:15 PM   #1153
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And few action shots
Attached Thumbnails
TRF101-img_eos-70d_01687.jpg   TRF101-img_eos-70d_01869.jpg   TRF101-img_eos-70d_01871.jpg   TRF101-img_eos-70d_01883.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:22 PM   #1154
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Très chouette cette Ligier
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:14 PM   #1155
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@Acid,

Who makes the truck body in your first pic?
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