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Old 11-09-2013, 04:50 PM   #856
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ok thank a lot ima try it by chance what motor and spur/pinion are u running?? Y is it that most people run the tamiya red shock spring?
I"ve been runnin a ballistic 21.5 with a 88 spur and 32 pinion. The red spring just seems to keep the rear more locked in from the testing I"ve been doing.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:04 PM   #857
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Ok thanks yeah I'm running the same spur/pinion set up, is there any other spring that works as long as it is soft like the tamiya red? Also does anybody know how to remove the pits from the black tamiya wheels. I want to get the exotek wheels for them to get me close to that 190mm mark.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:32 PM   #858
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Ok thanks yeah I'm running the same spur/pinion set up, is there any other spring that works as long as it is soft like the tamiya red? Also does anybody know how to remove the pits from the black tamiya wheels. I want to get the exotek wheels for them to get me close to that 190mm mark.
Theres a couple of different ways to remove the tires from those black foam tire wheels. You can go the acetone bath route. Which if you soak them for awhile you'll lose the inserts, they will dissolve.
The best way I have come up with. Is to get a baking sheet. Then lay some foil down on it. Put your wheel/tire combo on there. Put it in the oven at about 400 degrees and just bake them off. When you pull them out of the oven. Use some grill tongs and something to press the wheel down while pulling up the tire with the tongs.
Its crazy. But it works. The wheel will warp a little. Just enough to where the bearings will be a snug fit inside. Also another note. You might try elevating the wheels off of the foil. That way there's no burnt ring around the sidewalls.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:49 PM   #859
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Ok ima try that what about boiling them does that work?
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:01 AM   #860
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You have a better chance with acetone if you elevate the tires above the acetone vs. actually submerging them. The fumes do all the work. It doesn't hurt what you are trying to separate as much.
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:51 PM   #861
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Does boiling them in hot water work also? Just want to know before I put the wheels in the oven?
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:13 PM   #862
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What do I need to get the 101 to 190mm without using the exotek wheels?
Cause I have 2 sets of pits on tamiya wheels but I want to run 190mm. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:23 PM   #863
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What do I need to get the 101 to 190mm without using the exotek wheels?
Cause I have 2 sets of pits on tamiya wheels but I want to run 190mm. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I do not know the TRF101 in details, but this might help:
Rsector wide track conversion kit for the F104
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Old 11-11-2013, 08:41 PM   #864
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What's the stock width of the trf101??
Anybody know???
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Last edited by Typeone; 11-14-2013 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:29 AM   #865
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Anyone having trouble with the diff slipping? If I tighten it enough to stop the slip it starts to feel somewhat notchy. I remember reading about the bearing below (please see link below) but just can't find the thread. If anyone has knowledge or experience adapting that to an F104 can you please share.


http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1137
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:23 PM   #866
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I save the inserts by taking a hobby knife cutting the bead. Thus remove the tire and insert before soaking the rim in acetone to remove the bead.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:51 PM   #867
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Originally Posted by godzukihop View Post
Anyone having trouble with the diff slipping? If I tighten it enough to stop the slip it starts to feel somewhat notchy. I remember reading about the bearing below (please see link below) but just can't find the thread. If anyone has knowledge or experience adapting that to an F104 can you please share.


http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1137
Yes, I can recommend going with this bearing to replace the existing bearing. it makes the diff a lot smoother. I use associated black grease and pack it on the thrust bearing. Using this bearing also cut's down on maintenance and I have also found allows the diff to be adjusted more to suit the conditions. Just remember to change the disc inside the diff from () to )( when using the thrust bearing.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:56 PM   #868
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Yes, I can recommend going with this bearing to replace the existing bearing. it makes the diff a lot smoother. I use associated black grease and pack it on the thrust bearing. Using this bearing also cut's down on maintenance and I have also found allows the diff to be adjusted more to suit the conditions. Just remember to change the disc inside the diff from () to )( when using the thrust bearing.
Thank you.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:04 PM   #869
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Originally Posted by godzukihop View Post
Anyone having trouble with the diff slipping? If I tighten it enough to stop the slip it starts to feel somewhat notchy. I remember reading about the bearing below (please see link below) but just can't find the thread. If anyone has knowledge or experience adapting that to an F104 can you please share.


http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1137
If your diff is starting to feel notchy as you are tightening the diff there is two parts that is making this happen. 1) your diff balls are old and need to be replaced. If you going to go this route replace with ceramic diff balls. I personally used the AVID ones and they have lasted quite a long time. 2) the ball bearings are blown out and need to be replaced. The easy way to check this is take out the ball bearings and run it along your finger and see if it is smooth or feels a little notchy. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:49 PM   #870
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You can find those front parts from TQrcracing.com
anyone know which part number i need to get BC15? it is the ball socket mounted on the upper carbon plate - Tamiya (3404021)

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...101_Manual.pdf
Pg11

Also, BA13 looks out of stock. Tamiya (19808245)
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