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Old 09-03-2013, 01:21 AM   #721
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Hey guys, I'm a long time offroad electric driver and am looking to try something new and have decided to get in f1. I'm going to be getting the 101, but have absolutely nothing in onroad gear. I've been looking and will probably get the titanium screws out the gate so I have hex screws. But what am I going to need for shims/ spacers for tuning? I'm going to get springs and damper grease. But what else will I need? What are the normal spur/ pinion ranges? I'm going to run a d3.5 21.5 motor. Also, is a low profile necessary or will my Ko rsx servo work well? Thanks in advance for any help.
Nice, hexes are great, low pro is best, 86-96 spur, pinions 28-34, .5 to 3mm washers, usual offroad tools, ready set go!
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:38 AM   #722
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Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
Hey guys, I'm a long time offroad electric driver and am looking to try something new and have decided to get in f1. I'm going to be getting the 101, but have absolutely nothing in onroad gear. I've been looking and will probably get the titanium screws out the gate so I have hex screws. But what am I going to need for shims/ spacers for tuning? I'm going to get springs and damper grease. But what else will I need? What are the normal spur/ pinion ranges? I'm going to run a d3.5 21.5 motor. Also, is a low profile necessary or will my Ko rsx servo work well? Thanks in advance for any help.
If you're going with the TRF101, you don't really need the titanium screws. If you plan on running a shorty lipo pack and low pro servo you're going to be on the lighter side of things already. As for springs go, you don't need any side or kingpin springs as the kit already comes with an assortment of them. The kit includes two center or pitch springs so you really dont need anything else. The only thing you really need for that car are spacers for front ride height and different wt grease for the damper. The aluminum side spring adjuster nut is nice to have also. You can go with the Tamiya version or Exotek version. If you plan to run TCS just go with the Tamiya version. Also the carbon reinforced parts set that includes the side links and pivot mount are good to have as they sturdier buy still not needed. Low pro servos are nice since you'll have more tuning options as far as how you mount it.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:07 AM   #723
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Ok, I'll probably get the Futaba S9551 servo. With regards to the screws; I really want hexes all around. I will be running shorty Lipos and if the car is underweight, I can add lead weights to it. My intent is to have hex screws all around and still be TCS legal if I can get to one of the races.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:10 AM   #724
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The TRF101 already has hex screws all around.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:25 AM   #725
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Oh. Well I guess that takes care of that then. Thanks.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:28 AM   #726
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Like what I see, but didn't quite expect the amount of slop on the ball-ends for a kit like this.
No slop overhere, the Tamiya Ball-ends are great!!!

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Also not sold on the diff yet, the other similar diffs I have run better (F104 diff in F109; Corally diff). The TRF101 either slips or runs very heavy. Smooth, granted, but heavy.
Mine is smooth as silk and completely locked, no slip at all.

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Also some play on the shock piston.
Try a little shim, 0,1 worked for me

I love the kit and it's a very complete and high end kit for the buck!!
Looking forward to run it!!
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:43 AM   #727
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No slop overhere, the Tamiya Ball-ends are great!!!
I've had to use o-rings to remove the play. The steering arm ball-ends were fine, the grey cup/blue alu ball combination used for the side damper had enough play to allow about half a mm movement on the rear pod. There is no way I'd call that great tbh, great would be slopfree out of the box. (within reasonable limits, it still has to move freely, obviously). I'd expect, and be fine with, that in , say, a F109, perhaps even in a F104, but I honestly didn't expect that in a TRF101.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:22 PM   #728
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Also not sold on the diff yet, the other similar diffs I have run better (F104 diff in F109; Corally diff). The TRF101 either slips or runs very heavy. Smooth, granted, but heavy. :/
Do you have the cone washers in correctly check the manunal

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Old 09-03-2013, 01:36 PM   #729
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I've been having that same issue with the diff on mine. Seems to me the diff rings are not perfectally flat or the seat it rides on has high spots maybe. just seems to get tight at one spot when I rotate the diff but have not figured out where yet. Switched out the rings same thing, switched out the axle and hub still the same thing. Got me pretty confused.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:49 PM   #730
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Could be the diff balls.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:49 PM   #731
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@ Dan thanks for the setup help sunday man! Hope to race her in 2 weeks time!

I ordered ceramic 1/8 balls to put with a standard kimborough spur 88 since the stock 3mm ones seem to not let plates touch the balls. On road guys still use ceramics in diff correct? For 2wd offroad its pretty hard to not get a chirpy diff with ceramics so I use regular tungsten bfast balls (best IMHO for offroad).

My Tamiya diff seems ok though not heavy. The best I have ever built is a durango diff with bfast balls (not such a fan of the car though), followed by kyosho , schumacher and TLR sorted in terms of smoothness. This one is between a kyosho and a schumacher I would say. Also found it weird the spur gear moves that much between the diff housings but its per spec. All in all love this car especially compared to 17.5 TC which feels too safe and connected until I crash .
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:04 PM   #732
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I've not noticed a heavy diff after sanding of the diff rings on the TRF101. While you should have some play side to side, I've found sanding removes some of that slop.

I can highly recommend replacing the bearing 1150 with the F103 thrust bearing and it will be butter smooth and require very little maintenance.

I've run this on my F104 and the TRF 101 and it's made a huge difference.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:30 PM   #733
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I've not noticed a heavy diff after sanding of the diff rings on the TRF101. While you should have some play side to side, I've found sanding removes some of that slop.

I can highly recommend replacing the bearing 1150 with the F103 thrust bearing and it will be butter smooth and require very little maintenance.

I've run this on my F104 and the TRF 101 and it's made a huge difference.
Good tip thanks Ill keep that in my tqrc cart for the next big order you used the one piece bearing or the rings and balls separate? If the later what diameter balls?
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:47 PM   #734
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Good meeting you alok!

Whoops, I did forget to mention to you to get 1/8" diff balls. I'm running ceramics in my TRF101. Carbide also works.

F1 is challenging but fun. See you again in 2 weeks!
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:58 PM   #735
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Good meeting you alok!

Whoops, I did forget to mention to you to get 1/8" diff balls. I'm running ceramics in my TRF101. Carbide also works.

F1 is challenging but fun. See you again in 2 weeks!
Yes you too . Yeah I had an old kimborough spur I tried it on and I lost one of the stock 3mm tamiya balls in rebuild haha so was gonna order them anyways. I ordered a machined precision racing 88T spur from ebay because everyone else is out of stock and I am a sucker for machined POM spurs whisper quiet. I read on roads a lot cleaner so ceramics outlast and outperform the carbides!
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