Who charging 20+ amps or more now??
#286
You can consider an EFuel power supply which are low cost turnkey power supplies with several models that will give you the required input amperage and voltage.
EFuel 30A 15-18V http://www.buddyrc.com/efuel-550w-30...-with-pfc.html
EFuel 60A 15-24V http://www.buddyrc.com/efuel-1200w-power-supply.html
There a also other power supplies as well.
#287
Tech Champion
Assuming the Pyramid is around 13.8 volts, that's less than 12 amps. While higher voltage is nice, it's hardly needed for your current application. Just be aware of the limitations if you do have larger batteries in the future, buddy wants to try it out, etc.
Also I believe the TP, like most of the big boy chargers, can be programmed to limit the power to the supply being used to prevent issues. I'd probably set it for maybe 20 amps or so max, or even a little less to be safe.
Of course as you mentioned it does need a boat trailer to drag it to the track.
Last edited by Dave H; 05-02-2013 at 11:16 AM.
#289
#290
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
Here is a helpful calculator to help you figure out if your powersupply will be powerful enough for any charger.
http://www.revolectrix.com/pl6_calcu...PL6_Calc_1.htm
http://www.revolectrix.com/pl6_calcu...PL6_Calc_1.htm
Last edited by eds24; 05-02-2013 at 04:55 PM.
#291
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
amperage ratings are for wire in a wall without cooling airflow. In a car, cooling air can and will greatly increase the useful max sustained amps the wire can support. Think about it, a 3.5 turn motor on 2s will draw 100 amps briefly to make its max 750 watts of power, but the cooling occurs for the whole run. Ratings for wire are BS for our application.
The 476 A would be a sustained discharge, correct? #12 is ok for bursts of 100A but you are not going to flow those amps over 5-6 minutes at a constant rate. The battery would unsolder its internals.
#292
This one below (maxamps)
This 24v power supply is a beast! It can handle multiple high end chargers at one time with up to 1150 watts! If you need the best rc power supply for all those amp hungry chargers, pick up this MaxAmps.com 24v to supply all your power needs.
•100v-240v AC Input Voltage
•24.3v DC Output Voltage
•47A Continuous Output Current
•1150W Output
•11" x 4.5" x 3.125" dimensions
•6.5 lbs
•Short circuit and over-voltage protection
•Heavy duty metal cabinet
•1-year guarantee
This powerful and easy to use power supply will work perfectly with the Cellpro PowerLab 8 Charger and all Hyperion DC Chargers requiring a heavy-duty power source.
Note: This power supply comes with two power cords. Both need to be used to achieve 24V. In addition, you have the flexibility of using it as a 12v power supply by only powering the negative(black) side of the unit.
This 24v power supply is a beast! It can handle multiple high end chargers at one time with up to 1150 watts! If you need the best rc power supply for all those amp hungry chargers, pick up this MaxAmps.com 24v to supply all your power needs.
•100v-240v AC Input Voltage
•24.3v DC Output Voltage
•47A Continuous Output Current
•1150W Output
•11" x 4.5" x 3.125" dimensions
•6.5 lbs
•Short circuit and over-voltage protection
•Heavy duty metal cabinet
•1-year guarantee
This powerful and easy to use power supply will work perfectly with the Cellpro PowerLab 8 Charger and all Hyperion DC Chargers requiring a heavy-duty power source.
Note: This power supply comes with two power cords. Both need to be used to achieve 24V. In addition, you have the flexibility of using it as a 12v power supply by only powering the negative(black) side of the unit.
#293
I guess that's why I see 1/12 guys unsolder motor wires during a run on occasion....lol.
The 476 A would be a sustained discharge, correct? #12 is ok for bursts of 100A but you are not going to flow those amps over 5-6 minutes at a constant rate. The battery would unsolder its internals.
The 476 A would be a sustained discharge, correct? #12 is ok for bursts of 100A but you are not going to flow those amps over 5-6 minutes at a constant rate. The battery would unsolder its internals.
#294
Before anyone spends the money on a 24v supply, you should do some simple math to see what your requirements really are. Anyone running a 1, 2, or 3s battery really doesnt need a 24v supply. I thought i needed a 24v when i got my Powelab8, realized how to math it out and was amazed how few of watts even 30 amp charge rates were at lower voltage batteries. The charger wont do anything different at 24v . GET OVER IT AND SAVE YOUR MONEY UNLESS YOUR INTO 4S OR ABOVE BATTERIES.
#295
Before anyone spends the money on a 24v supply, you should do some simple math to see what your requirements really are. Anyone running a 1, 2, or 3s battery really doesnt need a 24v supply. I thought i needed a 24v when i got my Powelab8, realized how to math it out and was amazed how few of watts even 30 amp charge rates were at lower voltage batteries. The charger wont do anything different at 24v . GET OVER IT AND SAVE YOUR MONEY UNLESS YOUR INTO 4S OR ABOVE BATTERIES.
#297
#298
if you want to talk about evolution, how about we evolve to a battery that won't catch on fire! it is tough to understand the stampede past LiFe-Po4 to LiPo when one considers the hazard vs performance trade offs.
#299
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
We have proven over an over that running less voltage in our systems results in cooler electronics, improved durability and better racing. There are no overheating/run time or durability issue at all in 1s racing. In our application, with our current motors, lower voltage results in lower wattage and lower temps. Increased gearing and timing will not let our motors put out the same wattage at a lower voltage as they do at a higher voltage. 10 years ago there was a huge argument going on here between me and a user called Kufman. He is an EE Phd, I am not. Eventually Mike Reedy himself came on here and said I was right and her was wrong about this. There is more going on in our systems than can be explained with the simple V=IR, Ohm's law equation.
If someone unsoldered motor wires running 1s they are clueless. They had to have been running open mod with 20g wires overgeared with boost or something. I race on a high grip carpet track with some very fast guys. The hottest I have ever run a motor was 175 deg F when I ran too much gear and timing. I have seen motors hit 200 deg F when a guy over geared, commented how terrible the motor was running and continued to run 6-7 minutes anyways...once again the guy was an idiot.
Second, 1s batteries last forever in 17.5 and and 13.5. In a perfect 8 minute 13.5 1/12th run I think I use ~3000mah out of my 6500 packs. That's around 20-25A average over 8 min. That is not tough on modern batteries. Mod is brutal whether you run 1s or 2s. Mod racers can degrade a couple packs in a season.
If you look at the pros and cons 2s pan car racing does not make sense. Right now racers can use the same 17.5, 13.5 and Mod motors in any 1s or 2s car. The only special gear they need to run 1/12 or WGT are 1s cells and an rx pack, or booster, or 1s speedo.
#300
In the meantime, proper handling of Lipo will still yield greater performance over the old days of NiCad and NiMH. As for LiFe-Po4 being used for rc racing, it is up the the market to adopt it instead of Lipo.