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Old 04-04-2013, 09:18 AM   #76
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But don't you have to spend another $300 for a power supply?

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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
LOL. The I-charger is an awesome charger for the 350.00. A few places have it at 330.00. It discharges and gives a live IR plot too as your charging and discharging. Plus its half the size of a GFX.

There was no april fools joke involved. LOL

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Old 04-04-2013, 09:31 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
The ONLY thing that charging at higher amps will do is: Charge the battery faster, cut down on the life of the pack (from 300 cycles to 200 cycles maybe all speculation), and it will warm the pack internally which will decrease IR and increase voltage. But with all the big races checking battery temp it will not help as it wont pass tech.

The heat is the only reason it increases the voltage and lowers IR. If you let the pack cool to room temp and check it it will be the same as if you charged it at 5 amps. I have yet to see a charger that has any special voodoo built in that will charge and make a battery faster without using heat.

Ive been charging at 40 amps since December with the ICharger Duo 4010 came out. I raced every week all the way up till the birds. I only keep two packs to my name at a time. I practice and race on those two packs every week in TC. Those packs are still good today as they were new in December. The 40 amps thus far has not shown any ill effects at all. Generally when I go to the track its 4-5 charges per pack per day. There were some 3 day races in there too.

The pack I won the birds with was charged at 40 amps every single charge. I used it in both 17.5 and 13.5 TC all week in every practice and every race. Then I sent it to Josh Cyrul and he did the same with it in Modified and 13.5 sedan which he won both classes. That battery was put through hell and still cycles the same as it did when it was new a week before the birds.

The key to keeping batteries fresh is USING THEM! And making sure they dont sit with a full charge or zero charge in them. Not being used is a Lipo's worst enemy I have found.

EA
Very interesting info about using one single pack to attend an event in more than one class.

Do you recharge the batteries right after a run, I mean no cool down ???
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:44 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by mxgregg View Post
But don't you have to spend another $300 for a power supply?
I run three of these in series while charging my motorcycle at 70 amps. There not that hard to convert for our applications , a bit of googling will lead you in the right direction. Max amps sells these already converted with shrink wrap around them for $90.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-DPS-600PB...item3381218672
Make sure its a HP dps-600pb
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:50 AM   #79
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The manual for the powerlab 8v2 says you do not need to let the pack cool down before charging.

I charge my batteries at whatever maximum the battery says it will charge at. I keep my orion at 5c and my nano-tech at 8c. Recently i've started charging my Reedys at more than the rated charge amps and haven't had any issues yet.

I always plug them in right after running them. The most important factor for battery life for me has been not running the cells below 3.2v. I set my cutoff to 3.5-3.7.

While keeping to the rated charge on my batteries i have yet to encounter a battery that i needed to set my charger to 40a for. 7-12 minutes is plenty quick enough IMHO.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:42 AM   #80
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But don't you have to spend another $300 for a power supply?
Nope. I have a power supply thats from an HP Server I got on ebay for 13.00 shipped. It puts out 47 amps and is super light and small. Dont buy into the progressive RC power supplies they try to tell you you need.

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Very interesting info about using one single pack to attend an event in more than one class.

Do you recharge the batteries right after a run, I mean no cool down ???
If I need to get right back out on the track for practice I dont wait...Just recharge and go. Same for heat races. If I am not up for a few hours I'll just let the pack sit, then discharge and recharge before I am up again.

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Old 04-04-2013, 11:33 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Nope. I have a power supply thats from an HP Server I got on ebay for 13.00 shipped. It puts out 47 amps and is super light and small. Dont buy into the progressive RC power supplies they try to tell you you need.
I'm interested in using a computer power supply but don't know much about them. What specs do I look for?

thanks!
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:50 AM   #82
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I'm interested in using a computer power supply but don't know much about them. What specs do I look for?

thanks!
I would just look for someone selling them pre-wired. They are typically used powersupplies that are re-wired to power on when plugged in or switched on, add banana connectors, and re-sold. They come in 12v and you can buy them wired up in series at 24v. Pick whichever doesn't exceed your charger's input rating.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:55 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Nope. I have a power supply thats from an HP Server I got on ebay for 13.00 shipped. It puts out 47 amps and is super light and small. Dont buy into the progressive RC power supplies they try to tell you you need.



If I need to get right back out on the track for practice I dont wait...Just recharge and go. Same for heat races. If I am not up for a few hours I'll just let the pack sit, then discharge and recharge before I am up again.

EA
The PSUs Progressive RC sells definitely have their purpose but yeah a used server PSU is more than enough for most people and way cheaper. For instance, at 18v i can charge what i need to on my powerlab 8 while not exceeding my iCharger 206b's input rating. 12 or 24 wouldn't work.
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:15 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morbo View Post
I'm interested in using a computer power supply but don't know much about them. What specs do I look for?

thanks!
Search the For sale thread here on RCTech. There was a guy I bought a 57 amp one from for 40.00 shipped that was already wired up. The one I got on ebay I had to convert to 12v myself and wire up.

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Old 04-04-2013, 12:20 PM   #85
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thanks, fellas!

Found this one:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1612434

overkill?
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:48 PM   #86
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thanks, fellas!

Found this one:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1612434

overkill?
That links to two different PSUs and we don't know your charger and what battery you're charging so .. dunno.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:01 PM   #87
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Currently using an Orion Twin Spec and would (could) charge no more than 20 amps on each side.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:26 PM   #88
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Can I run a Powerlab 8 off this power supply?



I'm not really sure what voltage it is, i'm assuming 12v.

So if a 5000mah pack would charge at 5amps for 1C; 2C would be 10amps correct? So if it's a 5600mah pack, then charge at 11.2 amps?
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:19 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Search the For sale thread here on RCTech. There was a guy I bought a 57 amp one from for 40.00 shipped that was already wired up. The one I got on ebay I had to convert to 12v myself and wire up.

EA
I think you bought a 44amp (550 watt )supply.
Thread policy prohibits the free sale of member made products. I may or may not have some available to go in 12v setups.

Most people don't need a 24v supply. I go over the math with guys when they're buying supplies and 95% of even the most determined only fall in the 400-500 watt range. Easily in the realm of a 12v supply. I have done the 24v mods, but always get nervous about the idea of having 2 separate supplies. These things are used when we get them and then have to rely on them have similar service life left in them. Stick with 12v supplies unless you absolutely need big watts.

Last edited by MC112b; 04-04-2013 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:15 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
The ONLY thing that charging at higher amps will do is: Charge the battery faster, cut down on the life of the pack (from 300 cycles to 200 cycles maybe all speculation), and it will warm the pack internally which will decrease IR and increase voltage. But with all the big races checking battery temp it will not help as it wont pass tech.

The heat is the only reason it increases the voltage and lowers IR. If you let the pack cool to room temp and check it it will be the same as if you charged it at 5 amps. I have yet to see a charger that has any special voodoo built in that will charge and make a battery faster without using heat.

Ive been charging at 40 amps since December with the ICharger Duo 4010 came out. I raced every week all the way up till the birds. I only keep two packs to my name at a time. I practice and race on those two packs every week in TC. Those packs are still good today as they were new in December. The 40 amps thus far has not shown any ill effects at all. Generally when I go to the track its 4-5 charges per pack per day. There were some 3 day races in there too.

The pack I won the birds with was charged at 40 amps every single charge. I used it in both 17.5 and 13.5 TC all week in every practice and every race. Then I sent it to Josh Cyrul and he did the same with it in Modified and 13.5 sedan which he won both classes. That battery was put through hell and still cycles the same as it did when it was new a week before the birds.

The key to keeping batteries fresh is USING THEM! And making sure they dont sit with a full charge or zero charge in them. Not being used is a Lipo's worst enemy I have found.

EA
So if you let the pack cool down and then put the car on the track, it will be as if you charged at 5amps?
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