Speed Passion F1 car - The SP1
#1156
Hi Rob.
I'll go with the stiffer centre spring next. I'm liking this as the car is getting better each time I drive it. Also, I'm running it on a huge track used by 1/8 GP racers, and with my FDR down to 2.7:1 it's very very quick and stable.
Yes, the steering mod removes the slop in the plastic bell crank and servo link. I guess the SP ball cups on my car are a little worn which pronounces the slop.
Changing away from them has made everything nice and crisp. I'm now running tamiya soft rear springs and yokomo super soft fronts. Am going to experiment with changing those at the track tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help. Will update findings tomorrow.
I'll go with the stiffer centre spring next. I'm liking this as the car is getting better each time I drive it. Also, I'm running it on a huge track used by 1/8 GP racers, and with my FDR down to 2.7:1 it's very very quick and stable.
Yes, the steering mod removes the slop in the plastic bell crank and servo link. I guess the SP ball cups on my car are a little worn which pronounces the slop.
Changing away from them has made everything nice and crisp. I'm now running tamiya soft rear springs and yokomo super soft fronts. Am going to experiment with changing those at the track tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help. Will update findings tomorrow.
#1157
#1159
I just bought another SP1 kit for parts but have decided to build it up as a standby car instead!
#1161
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
I'm in the same boat, I would have to double check but I think a 19 is about it, MAYBE a 20t. I know you'll need a smaller spur to get close to 3.0 (72 / 24 = 3.0) that will never fit.
#1162
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Switch the rear spur to a Kimbrough 69. Then run a 21 to 26 pinion set.
I ran mine again last night at practice with very high grip and was running very good lap times. It felt like I was running foams. No odd kick out or under steer. I was trying to get a better scuff on my 571/575 tires and was what I would call extremely successful. I hadn't bothered to put in a PTX, so no idea what the times were. I was having a lot of fun so I was out with the car a good 20 minutes. The car was great everywhere. The only recommendation I got was to take a couple teeth off the pinion. I'm at 69/26 at the moment. Car wasn't hot, timing was good on the Trackstar 21.5. The theory he said is move the working power band down. It should generate similar lap times and use less battery doing it, but I may have to detune it a bit if torque is too high. I'll give this a try next time around as we ran out of time. Just as a background everyone at our track has a tendency to overgear the motor to make it more linear in feeling, so that's what I did. I personally think that regearing to 2.8 to 3.0 will be a good thing.
Happy motoring!
I ran mine again last night at practice with very high grip and was running very good lap times. It felt like I was running foams. No odd kick out or under steer. I was trying to get a better scuff on my 571/575 tires and was what I would call extremely successful. I hadn't bothered to put in a PTX, so no idea what the times were. I was having a lot of fun so I was out with the car a good 20 minutes. The car was great everywhere. The only recommendation I got was to take a couple teeth off the pinion. I'm at 69/26 at the moment. Car wasn't hot, timing was good on the Trackstar 21.5. The theory he said is move the working power band down. It should generate similar lap times and use less battery doing it, but I may have to detune it a bit if torque is too high. I'll give this a try next time around as we ran out of time. Just as a background everyone at our track has a tendency to overgear the motor to make it more linear in feeling, so that's what I did. I personally think that regearing to 2.8 to 3.0 will be a good thing.
Happy motoring!
#1163
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Agreed. And as I discover how to make best use of these parts the car seems to only get better. Sadly here in Malaysia we're stuck with using Ride R1s, which give excellent rear bite but the fronts are just a bit too hard for decent steering.
I just bought another SP1 kit for parts but have decided to build it up as a standby car instead!
I just bought another SP1 kit for parts but have decided to build it up as a standby car instead!
Time for custom parts! Just ordered a 6mm x 1m titanium rod ($75 US shipped). Time for some custom rear axles. One option is to cut it to the length of the carbon axle and drill out the pin hole for the inner hub. I just need the ends of some carbon axles that have been broken. The other option is to take the steel axle in and have the machining duplicated for the threaded end on the titanium rod and have the pin hole drilled for the inner hub. This will use a lot more stock. I should have enough stock for 5 or 6 and some scrap either way (extras!). I'm then switching to the Qtec left clamp hub. I have never trusted set screws. I don't like dimpling carbon axles, they always dig in and split or go loose on me. I'm running one of the clamp hubs on my LM-1 graphite axled car and wouldn't go back. I'll post the cost back and which option made the cut.
#1164
I did that with my LM-1. Now I have spares for years, 2 LM-1s and an SP-1. Last hopup is here, Alu servo bracket!
Time for custom parts! Just ordered a 6mm x 1m titanium rod ($75 US shipped). Time for some custom rear axles. One option is to cut it to the length of the carbon axle and drill out the pin hole for the inner hub. I just need the ends of some carbon axles that have been broken. The other option is to take the steel axle in and have the machining duplicated for the threaded end on the titanium rod and have the pin hole drilled for the inner hub. This will use a lot more stock. I should have enough stock for 5 or 6 and some scrap either way (extras!). I'm then switching to the Qtec left clamp hub. I have never trusted set screws. I don't like dimpling carbon axles, they always dig in and split or go loose on me. I'm running one of the clamp hubs on my LM-1 graphite axled car and wouldn't go back. I'll post the cost back and which option made the cut.
Time for custom parts! Just ordered a 6mm x 1m titanium rod ($75 US shipped). Time for some custom rear axles. One option is to cut it to the length of the carbon axle and drill out the pin hole for the inner hub. I just need the ends of some carbon axles that have been broken. The other option is to take the steel axle in and have the machining duplicated for the threaded end on the titanium rod and have the pin hole drilled for the inner hub. This will use a lot more stock. I should have enough stock for 5 or 6 and some scrap either way (extras!). I'm then switching to the Qtec left clamp hub. I have never trusted set screws. I don't like dimpling carbon axles, they always dig in and split or go loose on me. I'm running one of the clamp hubs on my LM-1 graphite axled car and wouldn't go back. I'll post the cost back and which option made the cut.
#1165
Tech Champion
I use the Q-Teq hub on my SP-1...really like this hub. I then space out the hubs to get to 190mm rather than adding spacers inside the wheel.
Q-teq hub found here:
http://www.reflexracing.net/QTEQ-Tam...ack_p_995.html
Q-teq hub found here:
http://www.reflexracing.net/QTEQ-Tam...ack_p_995.html
#1166
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Titanium axle!!! That will rock for sure. I've bent yet another steel axle and I'm not too fond or the carbon ones. Let me know how it goes with this one. I might need to do some experimenting of my own. How does the Qtec hub clamp down on the shaft? Never seen one of them.
In the pictures you can see the slots. The taper starts at about 8mm and ends at around 7mm. (Too lazy to grab a calipers). These come in black, blue, gold and silver. The examples are from Banzai Hobby in Japan. If you can wait for your order, this place is a bargain. Shipping international can take up to 30 days now unless you order Speed Post which wipes out the bargain.
Clamp Hub, 5.5mm spacer, .5mm of shims = dead on for a 185 car.
#1167
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I use the Q-Teq hub on my SP-1...really like this hub. I then space out the hubs to get to 190mm rather than adding spacers inside the wheel.
Q-teq hub found here:
http://www.reflexracing.net/QTEQ-Tam...ack_p_995.html
Q-teq hub found here:
http://www.reflexracing.net/QTEQ-Tam...ack_p_995.html
#1168
Like a collet. It has a 6mm inner diameter with 4 equal splits/cuts @ 90*. It has a progressive threaded pattern that rises from the edge of the collet. The clamping nut has the same angled threading and as it is is tightened, it compresses the split sections onto the axle. The tire slips over a mounted titanium bolt, not aluminum. The compression nut is 12mm.When completely clamped down I get just under 1 mm sticking out from the hub past the compression nut.
In the pictures you can see the slots. The taper starts at about 8mm and ends at around 7mm. (Too lazy to grab a calipers). These come in black, blue, gold and silver. The examples are from Banzai Hobby in Japan. If you can wait for your order, this place is a bargain. Shipping international can take up to 30 days now unless you order Speed Post which wipes out the bargain.
Clamp Hub, 5.5mm spacer, .5mm of shims = dead on for a 185 car.
In the pictures you can see the slots. The taper starts at about 8mm and ends at around 7mm. (Too lazy to grab a calipers). These come in black, blue, gold and silver. The examples are from Banzai Hobby in Japan. If you can wait for your order, this place is a bargain. Shipping international can take up to 30 days now unless you order Speed Post which wipes out the bargain.
Clamp Hub, 5.5mm spacer, .5mm of shims = dead on for a 185 car.
#1169
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
just wanted to correct my bad info.