simple

iTrader: (2)

My SP1 with an Exotek/Tamiya front end.

Walitopr

Hi I have a brand New sp F1 and I need dime help.
The height in the front is 10mm and back 8mm. How fixed that problem to Put the CAR in 5mm for run in the carpet.

THANKS

This is the First CAR in Puerto Rico

JFIVE

iTrader: (24)

Hi, I've just built mine as well. Great value, luv the quality. What impressed me the most is the Carbon chassis plate edges had been smoothed. This saves me a lot of sanding time.

I did have a little trouble adjusting the front ride height to fit F104 tyres.
The Lower plate washers/spacers in used in Step 14 didn't look confident. So I made my own spacer out of an old F104 3.5mm FRP bottom chassis plate.
It is a lot sturdy looking. The ride height is now 5.5mm. Little high but I haven't got any thin plates

Hopefully SP would release this as an Option part in Carbon material of either 1mm and 2mm thickness.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

what wing are you using ??

kschu

iTrader: (16)

what wing are you using ?

reg

that looks sweet,
where did you get the shell and decals from?

bufi

hello everybody; I was looking for the CRC red side spring Solara was talking about in pag 18. Anybody knows where to find them? what crc stands for?
thanka a lot

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/

bufi

thanks

Walitopr

Another form to put the ride height lower to 5mm

Sorry for my english. If somebody knows spanish I apreciated
THANKS

simple

iTrader: (2)

It is the Tamiya Ferrari F2012 body with decals from F1Paintlabs. Turned out a very convincing Williams FW34

InspGadgt

That's the Ferrari F60 body set and wings.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Rear....refer to the manual, page 4, step #6 and choose the correct plastic insert, sometime you have to flip the insert up side down to lower the car.

Front...refer to the manual, page 7, step #12. the 2mm spacer was used for the stock FOAM setting (the manual is setup per the foam tires, usually they are smaller then the rubber tires)...when you want to RAISE the arm higher, that will lower the chassis, add 2mm or even 3mm spacer on top of that 2mm and you will SLAM the car down....

Or refer to the manual, page 8, step #14...instead of using the 1mm spacer, add another 2mm spacer and form a 3mm drop.

The front need some time to go thru it...but if you look at my setup several pages back, I was using 2mm shim (total) below the carbon lower plate, then using 3mm shims below the arm (above the carbon lower plate) and this setup will give you around 5mm ride height when using rubber tires.

InspGadgt

Has anyone found other rod ends/ball cups that are a little tighter and less flexy than the stock ones? I was having issues in yesterday's race with the short link popping off of the bell crank on even light brushes with the wall. The car was definitely fast and handling great...But I lost every round due to the link popping off.

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

I finally got a car together and got it on track yesterday at the UF1 Midwest race at the Gate. I didnt have a lot of time to spend on it so it did not see the heat of battle. What I will say is that for the laps I ran with it in practice it was pretty good. I didnt have the gearing right because of a lack of pinions, but it was still pretty quick. Lots of steering, and the chassis seemed to rotate well. I ran it on Pardus tires at around 4mm ride height. Now that it is together I can start working with it to get it working better.