BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

Just wondering how the Pardus tires work outdoors?

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

I have not run them outside yet, but they were originally designed for asphalt, so they should be good. Of course most tires have a temperature limit, and I am not sure what that is for the Pardus tires

InspGadgt

Its possible but not likely. The SP-1 is predominately metric where the CRC cars are all standard. The threading is not likely to match.

Zedsispeho

I thought that metric was standard and imperial was not for most countries

InspGadgt

We don't call it imperial in the US...we call it standard

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I have the CRC Gen X and I will give it a try tonight...

And this SUNDAY I will run the SP1 with Pardas at the 2012 Pavement National track at Leisure hours....of course, it will be a test run only, no prep on the track, so expecting alot of dust...

InspGadgt

A suggestion for a change in the instructions...In step 10 I would suggest assembling the steering bell cranks but only attaching the posts to the carbon fiber plate. The bell cranks get in the way in step 14. Once the suspension plate is bolted to the chassis then put the bell cranks on. Also in step 11 it should mention the servo mounts will need to be trimmed if you plan to set the car up at 185mm.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The CRC retainers are smaller diameter. No go.

InspGadgt

Has anyone tried alternate mounting positions for the servo yet? I'm using a low profile servo and it looks like it might work well if I mount it it facing upright like many F104 cars do instead of the tall way. Especially with the bell crank steering mounting the servo differently won't change the ackerman. I'd prefer to mount it upright to keep the CG lower if possible.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The front pivot retainers need to have a slightly larger hole as well as being aluminum or harder plastic. I can't get my 2mm wrench in to adjust camber as the 3mm opening is too small and doesn't line up with the pivot ball.

Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Pivot.../dp/B001LVARHI but at 4mm instead of 8. I believe these are the correct diameter. 7mm is too big as I has some from my ABC mini to try.

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

Does anyone have comparison pictures of this chassis with a normal 2s pack vs a shorty 2s pack? Also, does anyone know how close the car is to minimum weight with a shorty pack?

Thanks for any help.

InspGadgt

Don't have specifics yet Lloyd but I believe any of the pan car style F1 cars are going to be well under weight with a shorty pack.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

the website says with long pack it's around 1160g. so it's around 1060g with a shorty pack I guess?
it really depends, like some people like beautiful body with everything (mirrors, T-bars, etc) on them; Regular servo v.s. low profile servo; some long pack is 320g and some are 280g; my shorty pack is 223g, some are 200g; ESC and Motor weights differently; some fast guys here prefers perfectly balanced cars, and their car are over 1200g (they race with long pack).

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Actually, I tried my CRC Gen X retainer (on manual, it is called Slotted capture insert)...and that fits perfectly with the SP1 steering hub....in fact, I think it has a tighter fit then the original one which I really like.

I am not sure we are both talking about the same parts....but I know my retainer on my old GEN X fits perfectly with a flat head screw driver to drive it in....I am not sure CRC made the aluminum version of that.

And I believed the latest model XTi used the same slotted capture insert...it looks the same from outside but I do not have one and I cannot say that for 100%....see below pic from CRC site.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

seems the front is a bit tricky, especially the parts aren't up yet and upgrades will be even later.
Anyone can provide the list of parts needed for F104 front end conversion?