zephuros

iTrader: (2)

I'll take a picture of the blistered fronts on my next trip to the track. They seem to work pretty well despite the blisters.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Solara! More parts please! When's the next crate due?

Sorcerer001

iTrader: (20)

I'd like some information on parts availability, as well. I've put myself on the Speed Power email list to advise me on availability of some of the carbon reinforced parts, and in two months have not received any sort of notification.

barts71m

iTrader: (34)

RobK,

Have taken out the original washer from the diff and replaced with the Tamiya washer as suggested on your blog. Have been unable to stop the diff backing when checking the diff action. Did you use a different lock nut or have I done something wrong.

Cheers
Scott

robk

iTrader: (22)

i have noticed that that can happen with a taller nut. If you can't find a thinner nut, flip the nut so the nylon lock is on the threads.

barts71m

iTrader: (34)

Cheers mate I shall give that a try.

fmm

Hi all,

I write here because I am new in F1 . I am not new in RC or on-road (I currently race touring 1:10 electric) but F1 seems to be a complete different and fun world.

I have bought the fantastic Speed Passion SP-1 and I am about to start the assembling, however I am a bit confused.

I have read almost the entire thread and I am even more confused. The point is that I don't really understand the different front width settings and the option parts I need.

I will use RIDE tires, so if I am correct I need to use the type A setting to obtain 190mm of front track width (which I guess it is the most common and legal track width nowadays). It seems that I can not do "type A setting" right out of the box, I have seen that there are some modifications that need to be done. In the other hand, I have seen that there are option parts that already facilitate this modifications (I think the option parts I would need are: SP000741, SP000977 and SP000978)

I will be using the car in a big medium traction asphalt track and my questions are:

Do I need to use type A setting for such a track? If so, am I correct with my explanation above? Do I need any additional part to do the type A setting?

Could someone provide me a starting setup for big medium traction asphalt tracks? I have seen many but I am not really sure the differences between then so I would prefer to Java a good one (easy to drive) and start from it

Do I need to do some other modifications to the car? Links, swing damper,...

Thank you very much in advance!!

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

Because I don't use Ride tires I can't comment on the width setting. It's been posted, IIRC, that you still use the standard 190mm setting. I would build it that way and measure it. If you do have to go to the 180mm setting because the Rides are wider (I run Pits) the only option part I believe you need is the aluminum caster block.

http://shop.speedpowerrc.com/caster-...nium-gunmetal/

Again because I don't run Rides tires I can't fully comment on a set up. But..

I would try the kit set up with 4mm front / 5mm rear ride height.

Are you running a shorty or full pack?
~I'm running a shorty all the way back with a Reventon R mounted behind the servo. Along with the kit set up and springs. Set up this way the car is very conservative (easy to drive with a on power push). I tried a more aggressive front tire but it was too extreme. I could have compensated with a softer rear tire but with the rising track temps they would likely have become "greasy" during our 10 minute runs. I'm going to move my esc to the side pod so that I can adjust weight bias with my battery to see if I can remove some of the push. Along with that I'll have some AE side springs in my pit box to try if need be. (I don't believe SP offers optional pod springs, and I don't know what the stock SP springs compare to with AE)

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Use the Alumium caster block option, build the front end to the 185mm setting. With Camber adjusted you will be just under 190 with Ride tires and rims, Pit tires on stock Tamiya rims and a little narrow with Pardus rims and tires. The only other thing you need to do is shave 5mm off of each upper a-arm.

zephuros

iTrader: (2)

Scored another 3rd place finish in a local club race here in Malaysia. Again, the SP1 ran very well with a combination of Solaris front and Ride R1 rear

[IMG] Nam Lee Cup 3rd place by SidhuD, on Flickr[/IMG]


Got a query for those of you who have run the Ride R1 tires tho. This car seems to have tons of rear grip with the R1s, but the front grip is near non-existent. As the local racing series here uses the R1as the controlled tires, how on earth can I go about getting more from the front?

Set up is:

Ride height 4mm F and 5mm R
Kit front springs
Tamiya black side springs
Kit center spring
Kit damper grease and shock oil
Front camber 2*
Toe out 1*
Caster 10
Front axles in trailing configuration
Front droop 0-0.5
4mm shims under arms, .5 under plate
Upper deck screws on front posts removed.
Shorty Lipo mounts full forward.


Basically moving from the Solaris to the Rides, the car just totally lacks steering. On power and off power it's the same. I really have to bleed off loads of speed before I can get the car to turn in. It's a huge difference from the Solaris tires which were just awesome. Note that the R1 fronts are pretty hard with hard sidewalls. I'm sure this is the main contributor to the problem. Question is... How to get more steering? Any ideas?

robk

iTrader: (22)

In general when you need more turn in:
Increase shock length to create more pod droop

Add toe out - like 2-3*

Go to inline axles

Taller ballstud on steering knuckle

Steering in general:
Increase front droop to allow car to roll more

Increase height of upper arms

zephuros

iTrader: (2)

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the reply. So you're saying I should use a longer shock end and use the next hole by the antenna to mount it? I'll try the rest of the mods you suggested this weekend and see what comes of it. What about Ackerman? Should I reduce it further with more spacers? Or will that not help much?

robk

iTrader: (22)

The next hole will give more steering but that is a different issue. I am saying if you use the current shock mounting you have and make the shock longer, the pod will droop further.

You can also go to the next hole and if you keep the pod droop the same it should have more steering.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

The R1's do understeer on the front, hence why I tend to run R1 rears, and 571 pit fronts.

But if your stuck with the R1 fronts, softer front spring, a little less camber (seems to help in keeping the contact patch working) and moving weight forward all seem to help, along with what Rob suggested. Also, don't overlook the top deck screws, pulling the front two out will help with gaining steering too.

Apart from that... Turn up the brakes!

HiH
Ed

fmm

Thank you very much for the answers (racer1812 & liljohn1064)!!

I will buy the aluminum caster block and do the 185mm setting. However according to the manual at PetitRC (Speed Passion), the aluminum steering bridge and the aluminum servo mount set are required to the 185mm setting. Is this right? What are the differences between the plastic servo mount and steering bridge and the aluminum ones? Just the material or is it something different?

According to the Solara’s instructions to do the 185mm setting (page 23), I need to remove the front portion of the servo mount… this is why I was wondering if the aluminum servo mount is already prepared for the 185mm setting

My experience on touring is that if you have aluminum steering bridge, typically you improve the steering response and therefore the turn in. So this is why I was thinking on the aluminum steering bridge.

I use Shorty packs and reading the recent post about the Ride R1 tires and the lack of steering, I think I will place the battery all the way forward to have a bit more weight in the front.

I would also like to have and try some softer side/front springs. Which are the AE springs that I need? I am saying AE because they seem to be very popular, but if there are others… it is fine to me as well.

And my last question, maybe silly but I use it very often in my touring car… is there any chassis protector for the SP-1? Our track is very bumpy, aggressive and it damage a lot the chassis, so…

Thanks again to everybody!