robk

iTrader: (22)

A little nose weight will help with on power steering. Much more than. 1/2 oz will start making the front end sluggish most times.

429racer

iTrader: (19)

Had a great time running the car this weekend at our local track. I can say that for my first F1 car this was a great car overall. I did have the crack in the top of the steering upright, but pulled over and popped the ball back and I was good to go again. If this issue gets fixed then the car would be Awesome!

B44

iTrader: (1)

anyone know where to buy a sp1 kit online...thanks

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

F1 RC Lab F1RCLAb.com Store

SpeedPower USA Warehouse Speedpowerrc.com Store

B44

iTrader: (1)

Thank you Sir. have a sp1 in the mail.

what bodies and wings fit the car,sorry im a newbie to this.

JayL

why not just take the shims from under the arms and put them under the plate?

robk

iTrader: (22)

Any tamiya and the speedpassion body is also very nice

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Cool!

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

All you really end up doing by shimming under or over the plate is change the height of the plate. The relation of the lower arms to the lower chassis should stay constant. Since that plate weighs nothing its not really going to impact the center of gravity. Raising it would give you a good spot to add extra weight low on the front of the chassis.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Because it would mean cutting the servo mount to mount the plate in the right place. And I would also start to worry about the servo horn hitting the plate.

JayL

but the reason tryhard is shimming the steering bellcrank up is because he raised the arms using shims to adjust ride height. If you left the arms low, no shims, the turnbuckles would stay flat and you could adjust the ride height by shimming the plate that the arms and bellcrank are attached to away from the chassis, yes?

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

You'd have to modify the front part of the servo mount as the screw passes through the chassis, then spacer, then center plate and finally into the servo mount. For the plate to travel up, you'd have to remove the amount you want to shim off the plastic stock on the mount from both sides. Easy for the stock plastic servo mount, not so much if you have the aluminum bits.

InspGadgt

No you don't...simply shim up the servo mount as well. I do all my ride height adjustments under the plate so that the angle between the arms and steering turnbuckles are always the same.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

and have to re-mount the servo every time you do ride height? no thanks..

What I think we can all agree on though, is there are a number of ways to skin a cat. They all have their advantages and disadvantages, but for me, the technique I have ended up with, is the way I feel is best for me. Simple really.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I know you mentioned that before, but I forgot you had done it that way. How does that impact the rear upper arm ball stud? Like a caster block on a pan car with arms angled down from back to front?