liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

SP1 in hand! Broke the seal, looked at the manual. I'm sure my curiosity will lead me to investigate more before I make it home tonight.

JayL

So F104 rims work?

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Yes. And F103s with the correct bearings.

Taylorm

.pics....pics...pics

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

If I wasn't at work! I'll see what I can do for the unboxing.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Nice box

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Step 1



Built - the ball links need to have a little bit of material removed inside to allow the screw to thread all the way in. Looks like a little bit of flashing from machining left inside.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Step 2



Built - remove the flashing the the ball again. Run the screw through the lock nut a couple times to make sure it will snug up. Don't over tighten the pillow ball retainer screws. Don't over tighten the pillow ball assembly to the chassis.



Don't freak out, the pod plate is thinner than the main chassis, just make sure pod pivots and rotates free in every direction with no binding.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Motor plate.



Assembled. Put the ride height shims in the bottom for F104 tires, top for F103 tires.


on the pod.



Pretty straight forward.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Axle, pin and outer diff half. Ends up making an axle assembly just like a 12th scale. Very cool.



Assembled.



Select the right right height bearing retainer. I put the 1.5 in mine. Looks to be around 4mm rear ride height.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Add the opposite side bearing, retainer, spacer and wheel adapter.



With the axle locked down, lets build the diff. Pretty straight forward.



Diff was easy to adjust, just slide on some spare rims, check for slip and then put the rest of the wheel adapter together.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Steering rack assembly!



Nice Rack.



At this point deviate from the manual and mount this assembly to the lower chassis. It is impossible to put the 3mm nuts next to the posts on with the lower arms in the way.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Now mount the lower arms per the original instructions. Mine are mounted in the 190mm config: outer hole in the plate matched to inner hole (next to the indicator mark) in the lower arm. The instructions show the assembly in the 200mm config. Add extra 2mm shims under each arm mount point and use 10mm screws in the front mount to make up for the 2mm lost to the spacer. The screw needs to go in 4mm and only 4mm or the caster plate will not mount correctly from the top.



This is where I left off for now. Good luck with your build.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Picking up where I left off. When putting in the upper ball retainer, do not over tighten and strip it. I had to CA the wrench to the part, turn it out, break it off the wrench and then notched both of them to be able use a screw driver just like the CRC cars.



Inline was my choice.



Do NOT add more shims here to decrease the ride height.



Installed! The front end is done. I found that the recommended gap for the front tie rods @ 23 + mm is wrong, too much toe in. Mine are currently at 21.7 or so and now have a little toe out.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Spring retainer/battery stop install. I threaded the retainers all the way onto the 10mm screw. The springs snap on real nice. Just touching the spring, my gap from the top of the retainer to the brace was about 1.5mm for preload.



Damper tube and upper pod brace assembled.



Installed along with the damper tube and upper pod/damper brace. I missed a couple of pictures in between here, sorry.