robk

iTrader: (22)

Good job guys!

tbamsey

iTrader: (1)

Finally had time to play with the car again got it pretty good, tire combo was ride rear pit fronts seemed to be best combo for me it lacked steering at higher speeds and the front bounced alot low/medium speed car was good slight push but good.

Thinking about adding weight to the front maybe finding softer springs for the front as well. What effect will going to the 10 degree castor instead of the 5 will have was thinking about trying that as well

Schs2013

Had my first race day with the SP-1 and it hooked up nice on carpet(learning the art of the correct amount of traction compound.)
out of 7 racer i manged to get up to 6th and 5th place in my qualifiers. it the main got up to 4th and then a on on the screws holding the links to the rear pod fell out.

What are possible fix's for these screws that are counter sunk and hold the links from main chassis to rear pod?

And part support in Canada = I willl order parts from the USA

Over all great F1 guys.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Threadlock everything...pan cars on rubber tires tend to transfer more vibration to the chassis

Schs2013

I will do that

Schs2013

For the motor mounts who sells the L side? Or for spare parts would it be easier to pick up another kit and have everything?
Been trying to locate what online store have parts in stock? TQ rc racing, RCmart, Speed Passion. Any others

Sorcerer001

iTrader: (20)

Two of us are running the SP-1 at our local track here in Portland (I talked the other guy in to buying the SP-1 over the heavily supported VBC cars), and we've both been having a very hard time with the cars. We're both typically upper A main drivers, but the SP-1 has proven to be difficult to keep together. Neither of us has been able to finish a race day without missing at least one heat or main due to breakage - many times without making contact with another car or wall. The real problem seems to be with the front uprights either binding after assembly, or splitting at the line that runs along the cup where the pivot ball resides. I also have had my pivot ball rip out of the upper arm while cornering on two occasions.
We both carry a hobby shop's worth of inventory of these uprights, in both standard and carbon reinforced composition, and have similar issues with both.
The crazy thing is, the first year I owned my car, I couldn't get over how durable it was. I had issues with the uprights binding, but the car held together through some nasty crashes. This year, it's progressively gotten worse.
I've seen a few guys have switched over to the CRC uprights. Is this the solution? I like that the lower pivot ball is metal, and the way the axle is captured with a nut.
I know these cars have some speed in them, just need to figure out how to keep it from breaking.

JayL

The newest carbon version rev B upright SP makes have a thicker section where they used to break. I've had no issues with those and I run on a board track.
http://shop.speedpowerrc.com/steerin...nforced-rev-b/

I had binding but with constant adjusting, every race day, of the insert that screws against the upper pivot ball no more issues. I also had some binding with the stock bellcrank but I switched to the alum bellcrank bridge piece and that make a huge smoothness difference. Also the lower POM pivot ball helps smoothness

At my local track the Sp is the current king against new VBC and all the Tamiya

Schs2013

Great info guys. Since this is my first f1 i may just get something the local guys are running.
Tamiya F104v2 seem to be king for now.
VBC or Tamiya?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Finally got round to writing down my QLD state titles setup. Tried to include as much info as possible... might seem a little bit odd, but it works for me and my mod TC driving style

Ed Clark - SP-1 QLD Titles Setup 2014

Also attached are some photo's of the servo setup, as well as my front end shim setup. I actually want to go back and re-visit the amount of shims under the rack, as I would like to take out even more of the bump steer if possible, see what happens.

Cheers
Ed

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Thanks ED for sharing.....but may I ask, WOW...am I seeing almost all the soft plastic stuff still on your car? Do you want me to send over some aluminum options parts for you....? LOL

Well done.....see you in TITC 2015?

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Here is Rob King latest set up at the GATE....TCS rubber on carpet.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Well, if your offering, rude to say no...
But your right, the only carbon reinforced bits on my car are the side links/football, and front uprights (still on my original set too). Everything else is kit plastics (front arms, servo mount, castor block), honestly haven't seen a need to upgrade, and I haven't broken any bits either!

TITC15 is looking unlikely, unless I can find a job that pays me lots and allows lots of time off...do such things exist?? Haha

Ed

Sorcerer001

iTrader: (20)

I just "borrowed" your servo setup - strangely enough, it works so well that it seems as though this is what the designer of the car intended. Slightly lower CG, allows battery placement right up to the ideal spot, far more convenient access to the servo arm and screw, and provides more surface area to adhere the servo to the chassis and braces. So thanks for that!

bigcracing

iTrader: (32)

I have a few questions first is what are you guys finding for a good ride height for this car at the gate they said we can use 3 mm min but what is UF1 ride height rules. Next is on the front end where do you adjust ride height from the arms or from the carbon plate that attaches to the chassis. I am having a problem with trying to get ride set equal all over but one side will be 4.5 and 4.0 on the other. I checked tweek and got the rear pod equal. The chassis is unequal from side to side. How much droop I the rear should I use?

Thanks for everybody's advice. Chris