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Old 07-26-2014, 05:04 AM   #1171
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
FYI, I was wrong. I have a 22t on mine. Might fit a 23t but that would be about it.


just wanted to correct my bad info.
Racer1812,

Go to 64 pitch gearing. Loads more gear combinations since you can get some pretty small spurs.
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:33 AM   #1172
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Originally Posted by adriang79 View Post
I managed to squeeze a 23t onto it, but certainly won't fit anything more than that.

My motor mount is currently with a friend who has a milling machine to have the motor screw holes made a little bit longer, hopefully fit another tooth or two on the pinion.
Get a Kimbrough 69 tooth spur. The limiting factor for gearing is the size of the spur and the 72 is just too big.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:45 AM   #1173
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Spent all day trackside today. I've got my SP1 running just beautifully now. The Orca Cup in Malaysia is 3 weeks away and I think all the development I've done with the car is now paying off. The ride R1 control tires are strange. The rears are just great - grippy as he'll. the fronts however are just too hard and steering is poor as a result. Today I ran 14 packs and completely went through a set of rear tires. The fronts still look as good as new. To get more front bite, I went to Yokomo super soft front springs, Tamiya reds (extra soft) on the rear and the center spring I used was a TOP 367 g/mm. That'sthebhardest center spring I had on me. On the whole the car performed better and better throughout the day and small changes to the Ackerman and front toe helped a lot. I'm running a F104 style servo and steering setup which I mentioned a few posts ago.

However, the biggest difference to the steering came from "softening" the front tires. I achieved this by using a grinding wheel and literally grinding off rubber from the sidewalls. Lol. Took ages but they finally did become a lot softer and therefore steering improved tremendously. If anyone has tried this before I'd like to hear about the best way to do this as using a dremel is slow and produces somewhat of an uneven sidewall... Still works, but looks rather awful.

Shall head back out to the track tomorrow and test some more. Does anyone have any more ideas on how I could get more steering out of the car? Initial on power steering is what I need.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:46 AM   #1174
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Hey is anyone on this thread running the SP1 In AOC in Australia this weekend?
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Old 07-28-2014, 04:25 PM   #1175
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Originally Posted by zephuros View Post
Spent all day trackside today. I've got my SP1 running just beautifully now. The Orca Cup in Malaysia is 3 weeks away and I think all the development I've done with the car is now paying off. The ride R1 control tires are strange. The rears are just great - grippy as he'll. the fronts however are just too hard and steering is poor as a result. Today I ran 14 packs and completely went through a set of rear tires. The fronts still look as good as new. To get more front bite, I went to Yokomo super soft front springs, Tamiya reds (extra soft) on the rear and the center spring I used was a TOP 367 g/mm. That'sthebhardest center spring I had on me. On the whole the car performed better and better throughout the day and small changes to the Ackerman and front toe helped a lot. I'm running a F104 style servo and steering setup which I mentioned a few posts ago.

However, the biggest difference to the steering came from "softening" the front tires. I achieved this by using a grinding wheel and literally grinding off rubber from the sidewalls. Lol. Took ages but they finally did become a lot softer and therefore steering improved tremendously. If anyone has tried this before I'd like to hear about the best way to do this as using a dremel is slow and produces somewhat of an uneven sidewall... Still works, but looks rather awful.

Shall head back out to the track tomorrow and test some more. Does anyone have any more ideas on how I could get more steering out of the car? Initial on power steering is what I need.
Start raising the rear end - rake it down towards the front. You might also add a little nose weight, maybe 7-to 14g
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:37 PM   #1176
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Start raising the rear end - rake it down towards the front. You might also add a little nose weight, maybe 7-to 14g
Hi Rob,

Thanks for all the input. So far all your suggestions have been incorporated into my setup and the car really is getting more competitive as a result. Thanks loads! I'll set the rear a bit higher now and see how that goes too. I've already got about 20 g of weight in the nose, and changed over to the SP high wing in front. That too seems to help on the long sweepers. I've also tried to change my driving style somewhat and am tapping on the brakes to yaw the car into some of the slower turns. It really does work, but trying to get it consistently right is quite a challenge. Lol.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:25 AM   #1177
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Has anyone found a better ball end that is compatible with the stock ball studs? The stock cups/ball ends all have a significant amount of play, so there's a considerable amount of slop in the front end of my car. I know some of this originates with the steering rack, but the ball ends seem like a good place to start tightening things up.
Also, when I built my car, I used the recommended Associated rear links and balls. When Speed Passion released the carbon reinforced parts, I picked up the link set. I'm having problems with my rear links popping off at random moments, with no impact. Are the factory links not compatible with the Associated balls? They were fine for a few batteries, but can't seem to make it 5 minutes without a link popping.
Other than a few mechanical issues, I've got the car pretty well dialed in. Typically qualifying in the top half of the A, which has some pretty talented drivers. Once I get the rust knocked off my driving and tuning skills (haven't run carpet consistently since 1996), I'm sure it'll be a contender.
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:44 PM   #1178
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Originally Posted by Sorcerer001 View Post
Has anyone found a better ball end that is compatible with the stock ball studs? The stock cups/ball ends all have a significant amount of play, so there's a considerable amount of slop in the front end of my car. I know some of this originates with the steering rack, but the ball ends seem like a good place to start tightening things up.
Also, when I built my car, I used the recommended Associated rear links and balls. When Speed Passion released the carbon reinforced parts, I picked up the link set. I'm having problems with my rear links popping off at random moments, with no impact. Are the factory links not compatible with the Associated balls? They were fine for a few batteries, but can't seem to make it 5 minutes without a link popping.
Other than a few mechanical issues, I've got the car pretty well dialed in. Typically qualifying in the top half of the A, which has some pretty talented drivers. Once I get the rust knocked off my driving and tuning skills (haven't run carpet consistently since 1996), I'm sure it'll be a contender.
The ball studs for the links are 5mm and are the same size as the Tamiya and Associated ones. As far as the front, all the slop in in the rack. I've put wide washers under the top of the screw and it stops the rocking quite a bit.
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:12 PM   #1179
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Originally Posted by Sorcerer001 View Post
Has anyone found a better ball end that is compatible with the stock ball studs? The stock cups/ball ends all have a significant amount of play, so there's a considerable amount of slop in the front end of my car. I know some of this originates with the steering rack, but the ball ends seem like a good place to start tightening things up.
Also, when I built my car, I used the recommended Associated rear links and balls. When Speed Passion released the carbon reinforced parts, I picked up the link set. I'm having problems with my rear links popping off at random moments, with no impact. Are the factory links not compatible with the Associated balls? They were fine for a few batteries, but can't seem to make it 5 minutes without a link popping.
Other than a few mechanical issues, I've got the car pretty well dialed in. Typically qualifying in the top half of the A, which has some pretty talented drivers. Once I get the rust knocked off my driving and tuning skills (haven't run carpet consistently since 1996), I'm sure it'll be a contender.
The ball ends are the same size as associated, losi, etc. so RPM, associated, losi etc. will fit. The Tamiya stuff is slightly larger so the aforementioned cups won't fit, and the Tamiya cups are too big for the stock parts.

The Associated links have a different sized ball than SP, so you will have to go back to SP balls for the links. Tamiya is an exact match however, both links and balls if you ever need to substitute.
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:30 PM   #1180
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Thanks, guys! liljohn - I'm actually seeing a bunch of slop in the cups themselves, I'm starting to think my kit's plastic was from a bad batch. Then there's the slop in the rack itself - I wonder if fresh bearings and the aluminum rack would be an improvement? I'd like to just switch to a direct setup, to eliminate the rack all together, but I'm not sure how I'd retain proper ackerman.
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:50 AM   #1181
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Thanks, guys! liljohn - I'm actually seeing a bunch of slop in the cups themselves, I'm starting to think my kit's plastic was from a bad batch. Then there's the slop in the rack itself - I wonder if fresh bearings and the aluminum rack would be an improvement? I'd like to just switch to a direct setup, to eliminate the rack all together, but I'm not sure how I'd retain proper ackerman.
Sorcerer, I never quite liked the rack either. Finally decided to do away with it using a cheap 3 Racing servo saver, some M3x12 screws, shims, and 5.3mm balls and ball cups from my TOP TC.

Mount the servo as far forward as possible and then just use the shims to get the Ackerman you need. Here's a picture of what I did. Also enables very quick change between settings :-) works like a charm and all the slop associated with the rack is gone.

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Old 08-19-2014, 11:08 PM   #1182
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i just got two speed passion f1 1 is bone stock no upgrades other one has the upgraded steering rack 10 degree castor. Both are setup for 185 setup, Both running ride height at 5.5 front 6.0 rear rear pod droops about 1.0-1.5mm, 30k crc lube in goop tube thing 30 wt in shock with stock spring.The bone stock is running pardus tires the hoped up one running ride r1 front and rear. Track is a grape soda sprayed out door asphalt with med grip. Track temp runs around 130+ or so in Arizona summer.

Problem i am having is when running the shorty packs all the way forward the car just spins in corners or if i get on throttle to hard. Shorty in back the cars front ends seem to hop going into tight hairpin turn. Seems the r1 is more manageable with throttle control with battery in back. Is this more the tire selection or battery location or am i missing something else. any help or suggestions would be nice
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:39 AM   #1183
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List your whole setup. I had a similar issue and I put the whole ROBK setup posted in this thread and wow best car on the track now
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:50 AM   #1184
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I added a flat pinewood tungsten weight under the steering rack with a battery back setup and the car is awesome.
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:44 PM   #1185
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John: what's up with your Ti axle?
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